Help me straighten out a warped door!

[Ira]

I would get a big fat guy to sit on it for a day and a half to straighten it out.

[Chris C]

fornesto,

Working with plywood, Baltic Birch, Apple-ply, or even solid woods, one is subject to a universal "given"! That "given" is whatever you do to one side, you have to do to the other. When you see a piece of wood that is veneered, the other side of that panel has to be veneered with the same material..............or the panel will warp. It just will. It's a fact. Wood breathes..................all wood, not just plywoods. It has to breath exactly the same from both sides. If you paint one side, you need to paint the other with the same material. If you seal one side, you must seal the other. When I make a table top, even one 3" thick, and apply veneer to it, the other side HAS to be veneered with the same veneer. Expensive, but required................because even a 3" thick top will bow eventually if veneered only on one side.

So to repair your door, you need to take if off the hinges, tear it apart and start over. Sorry if that's a disappointment, but dem's da facts!

[doug hodder]

Another option....I had my doors both cup on the first tear....big lesson learned...always leave them laying flat during the build, unless they are hanging on the tear...I had covered the exterior with mohogany and epoxied them up....after they were cupped, I did the cut out for the window, then set the table saw for a shallow cut....ran about 25 kerfs maybe 1/4" deep spaced about 3/8" apart...it made the door flexible enough...clamped it all down and squeegeed thickened epoxy into all the kerfs, filled them up, and covered the interior side with birch, let it all cure...worked for me, but I had the entire door cupped from top to bottom maybe 3/4"....just what worked for me...if you only have 1 that is bad and can't fix it...cheapest way out is to build another....Doug