Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

by **Geron** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 8:38 am

Thanks Keith,
gottcha.

g

by **Keith B** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 8:12 pm

CRAP

... I got a little carried away on this last coat of paint and created a run on one section of the edges...so, again I get to do some more sanding, but this "next last coat" is going to be rediculously thin... OH why didn't I pay attention to my own advise. :roll:

Dad-gum-it!

by **elmo** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 10:25 pm

Boy Am I glad I didn't have to do all that sanding!

Looks great! :thumbsup:

by **Arne** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 6:10 am

If done right (according to my rule book), once the first coat of primer is put on and sanded, there should be very little hard sanding left, since the grain was raised on the first coat.

Epoxy, paint, sheet rock compound are all applied in a similar fashion (by me)... several light coats are superior to a heavy coat. The light coats dry faster and require less work before the next coat is put on.... and generally give a better finished product.

by **Steve Frederick** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 7:00 am

That looks great!

by **Keith B** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 9:26 am

As long as I get to the paint within about 24 hours it sands pretty easy, so I'm just gonna sand that little run out and fix it; I think it'll be OK. The ONLY dissadvantage I can see to using this paint is "dust"... dust and "stuff" get in the paint and I don't think there's really much you can do for it... I don't think there's any "buffing" it out, etc. I'm gonna contact 3M and see if they have something...if not, it'll be JUST fine.

by **Keith B** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 1:40 pm

You know... the paint went on great and the finish is VERY acceptable...but, there are little "bits" dried in the paint, maybe little dust particles or little hairs or something. I'm debating about trying the color sand technique.. don't know if it can be done w/ Interlux or not and they didn't really have an answer for me. I don't think I wanna put any more paint on this thing just to get the same "results". It looks nice until you really start looking at it or feeling it...the littls "bits" just kinda make you go...Well "dang it"... probably just the nature of the beast w/ a roll/tip technique. So maybe I'll take one for for the team and see if I can get some positive results for future users.

by **toypusher** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 2:51 pm

Keith,

If you don't mind the work involved, you can wet sand it starting with 600 or 800 grit and work up to 1000 or 1500, the use a polishing compound after that. It works great on gelcoat, so I think that it would work OK on the paint.

by **Keith B** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 3:08 pm

I dont' mind the work at all... start will 600-800 - wow...I was gonna start w/ 1500 :thinking:

... I've never done this before, so I was gonna practice on the hatch - if I blow it, the hatch is very small to paint.

by **toypusher** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 3:13 pm

Keith B wrote:I dont' mind the work at all... start will 600-800 - wow...I was gonna start w/ 1500 ... I've never done this before, so I was gonna practice on the hatch - if I blow it, the hatch is very small to paint.

Hey, try to start high, but it may use a lot more paper that way. If it seems to work to your satisfaction, then by all means, go for it and you will maybe save lots of sanding. Not knowing how much 'stuff' you are trying to remove, I just suggested what I normally use on fenders and stuff. Just make sure and use lots of water - keep it wet and it will go much faster and eaiser.

by **Keith B** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 3:59 pm

Thanks Kerry...I'm gonna give it a shot tonight on a little test area... I don't know if the paint is "hard" enough so I'm just gonna do a little test... I think it should work too.. at least it sounds good in writing doesn't it :lol:

. Thanks for the tips; I'll keep ya posted. I founds some stuff by 3M called Rubbing Compound and Foam Polishing Glaze that said it works on urethane paint, so maybe the stars will align for me... I'm probablly being over anal on this, at least that's why my neighbors said, but still, why not try to do the best you think you can do... I can tell ya for sure I'm going to practice my spray ability for future builds and projects.

by **Esteban** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 4:14 pm

Keith,

your tear and paint job is looking very good.

:thumbsup:

Thank you very much for being so giving of your experience, info. on materials used, techniques, and :pictures:

of your progress.

Hope you soon enjoy lots of :vroom:

by **toypusher** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 4:26 pm

Hey, Keith!

Just another quick note. If the grit you select seems to take lots of work, then drop down one or two steps and just sand 'lighter', then go back up the step or two in grits. Sometimes a quick and very light pressure with a lower grit will get things done faster and easier. Remember, the coarser the grit, the lighter the pressure (unless you want to take lots off at once).

by **Keith B** » Wed Apr 18, 2007 8:27 am

Hey... 1500 knocked the stuff right down... HOWEVER... I'm not able to get the paint back to the same gloss as it had, pretty close though... this poly-paint might be different. :thinking:

. I only did the hatch so if I have to "repaint" well then, that's what I'll do... I bought the 3M, Perfect It III stuff and all new pads....

by **apratt** » Wed Apr 18, 2007 8:58 am

Keith B wrote:Hey... 1500 knocked the stuff right down... HOWEVER... I'm not able to get the paint back to the same gloss as it had, pretty close though... this poly-paint might be different. . I only did the hatch so if I have to "repaint" well then, that's what I'll do... I bought the 3M, Perfect It III stuff and all new pads....

You may have to let the paint cure. Give it a couple weeks then polish it again, it may shine up.

Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Fenders On :)

Who is online