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[Classic Finn]

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As I mentioned I dont have a table saw yet so Im going to run to my sons wood working class and cut the spar narrower cause its like 4 or 5 inches wide..

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Classic Finn

My Table Saw.

Good morning Gage..

Ummmmm wait till the wife sees this... But again...on 2nd thought..maybe she shouldnt..

[Gage]

I forgot to mention that I really have two table saws. Here's a pic of the one I use for the bigger jobs. Notice the adjustable fence.

[doug hodder]

Hey Gage...what'd ya do...cut off the cord on the saw? Is it a wind up? Doug

[Classic Finn]

Can anyone tell me if I should cut down the new hinge spar on the body side to the correct size of the hinge instead of leaving it wider ?

The Oak board is 9 1/4" wide and 1 3/4 " thick.

I glued 2 Oak Boards together so it should be strong now.. plus I,ll attatch it with the Kreg screws & glue.
If I were to cut the notch area on the side walls we wouldnt have anything to cover that up with since its all aluminum outside already.
As the wife says it will not look good unless I can patch that area nicely.. granted strength is more important than the looks also but looks is also a big issue ..

Classic Finn

[toypusher]

Heikki,

Your tear side spar only needs to be about 1 1//2" x 1 1/2" especially if it is laminated oak. You could just cut partway through you sidewalls to 'inset' the spar. Say if your walls are 3/4" thick, then just inset it by 1/4" to get a better glue joint. You then of course have to be very careful of using screws so that they do not come out the outside.

Do you understand what 'toenailing' is? Predrill holes and put screws in at a ver shallow angle so that the do not punchure the sidewall.

If you have Steve Frederick's Shop manual, it explains it real well.

[Classic Finn]

Heikki,

Your tear side spar only needs to be about 1 1//2" x 1 1/2" especially if it is laminated oak. You could just cut partway through you sidewalls to 'inset' the spar. Say if your walls are 3/4" thick, then just inset it by 1/4" to get a better glue joint. You then of course have to be very careful of using screws so that they do not come out the outside.

Do you understand what 'toenailing' is? Predrill holes and put screws in at a ver shallow angle so that the do not punchure the sidewall.

If you have Steve Frederick's Shop manual, it explains it real well.

Hi Kerry

So you mean to go quarter of the way into the ply and then put the screws in at an angle? Correct? With a router or? Carefully chisel it out?

I unfortunately dont have Steves Manual, I intend to get it yet ..somehow.

Wouldnt the Kreg system do the same? Using shorter screws.

Classic Finn

[toypusher]

Heikki,

The Kreg system angles the screws in at a very steep angle (relative to what I am talking about) and what I mean is a very shallow angle.

Here's a pic that might help:

[Classic Finn]

Ok Kerry now I see it.. now what would be the way to get that spar notch
made into the wall?

It came to mind that I could run in with the jig saw a bit at a time but to get the cross cut into it may be more of a challenge unless I chisel it out a bit at a time..

That partial notch is a real good idea instead of going all the way thru..

Classic Finn

[toypusher]

Ok Kerry now I see it.. now what would be the way to get that spar notch
made into the wall?

It came to mind that I could run in with the jig saw a bit at a time but to get the cross cut into it may be more of a challenge unless I chisel it out a bit at a time..

That partial notch is a real good idea instead of going all the way thru..

Classic Finn

If you have room, a router would be best, but you have to make sure to use a template to keep from cutting outside the lines.

A chisel to cut the outline would be a good way to start, then maybe the router to cut the majority of it out and finish with a chisel. If you use a router, be very careful. It can get away from you very easily when using it freehand.

Using a jigsaw would be very dificult, I would thing.

If you have room from the top, then the jigsaw might work to cut the vertical and use a chisel to cut the horizontal and then just chisel it out.

You really do not need to make the partial inset, it will just add a bit a strength. Either way, make sure and predrill the spar for your screws to toenail it in place and try to use long thin screws that will be less likely to split the sidewalls. Also, make sure to calculate the angle to prevent the screws from coming out the side of the sidewalls.

Sure hope this helps.

[Miriam C.]

Heikki,

The Kreg system angles the screws in at a very steep angle (relative to what I am talking about) and what I mean is a very shallow angle.

Here's a pic that might help:

Heikki, you can make this stronger by putting a framing board under the (blue) hatch spar and attaching it to the sides of the TD. Then screw down from the top of the hatch spar if you can. You will want to pretty it up but it will give your spar a place to land if it bounces.

[Classic Finn]

Auntie M

I think if Im not mistaken the cabinet facial for the galley sits under that spar.. I havent had my concentration on it now for awhile but I,ll check so then it would be stronger..I,ll recheck..

Well off to the oldest boys woodworking class to cut some ply and spar..nice to be good friends with the instructor now plus he,ll get a few extra points for working on the tear with me..

Classic Finn

[Classic Finn]

Ok Kerry now I see it.. now what would be the way to get that spar notch
made into the wall?

It came to mind that I could run in with the jig saw a bit at a time but to get the cross cut into it may be more of a challenge unless I chisel it out a bit at a time..

That partial notch is a real good idea instead of going all the way thru..

Classic Finn

If you have room, a router would be best, but you have to make sure to use a template to keep from cutting outside the lines.

A chisel to cut the outline would be a good way to start, then maybe the router to cut the majority of it out and finish with a chisel. If you use a router, be very careful. It can get away from you very easily when using it freehand.

Using a jigsaw would be very dificult, I would thing.

If you have room from the top, then the jigsaw might work to cut the vertical and use a chisel to cut the horizontal and then just chisel it out.

You really do not need to make the partial inset, it will just add a bit a strength. Either way, make sure and predrill the spar for your screws to toenail it in place and try to use long thin screws that will be less likely to split the sidewalls. Also, make sure to calculate the angle to prevent the screws from coming out the side of the sidewalls.

Sure hope this helps.

Thank You kindly Kerry..looks like tomorrow I can install the hinge spar.. I,ll post some pics asap.

Also my thanks to everyone else giving us advice on this..

Classic Finn

[Classic Finn]

I forgot to mention that I really have two table saws. Here's a pic of the one I use for the bigger jobs. Notice the adjustable fence.

Ohh Gage forgot to mention I do have a saw such as the above but not with the adjustable fence.. I,ll have to invest in the fence as well.

Classic Finn

[Gage]

I forgot to mention that I really have two table saws. Here's a pic of the one I use for the bigger jobs. Notice the adjustable fence.

Ohh Gage forgot to mention I do have a saw such as the above but not with the adjustable fence.. I,ll have to invest in the fence as well.
Classic Finn

Bet you don't have one like that one. That's my 'Green' saw. You'll notice (like Doug did) that there is no electrical cord. That's an antenna that draws already used electric from the overhead florescent lighting.

[Classic Finn]

Green Saw :must be real energy efficient then lol:

Classic Finn