Singin the Gas Shocks Boogie - New Pics

[Classic Finn]

Finn,

I hate to break this to you, but I think you need new struts.

Just looking at the pictures of your design, the 10 inch stroke of the current struts will force you to mount them pretty close to the hinge. But that would drive you to a higher load capability than those struts have.

So....longer struts with the same load rating, or stronger struts of the same length.

If I knew the exact dimensions, weight and position of center of gravity of your hatch I could help work out what you would need.

Cheers!

Dirk

Hi Dirk and Thank You kindly also for your assistance.

So would twice the length of these ones be sufficient?

I can go out and measure this.. however the width and height of the hatch is 58 inches. The weight is 35 to 40 kilo not more.. whatever that is in pounds. Now the center of gravity is a different story..

In this photo I could push the hatch up with my middle finger (seriously) And I felt relieved till I wanted to close the hatch thats when I noticed the Blues comin on.


And yes Im about to cork a bit of Finnish Spring Water Named Finlandia
40%.

Classic Finn

[Ivar the Red]

Dang...I think I'm gonna use a broom stick.

[Classic Finn]

On the Gas Shock is a number which means 170 Newtons which I guess is part of the formula used for calculating the proper gas shocks.

Hmm Andrew where art thou.

[Classic Finn]

Dang...I think I'm gonna use a broom stick.

Ohh Johnny I feel like Im in need of a beer. Im also tempted to grab our mop handles which are aluminum.

[Classic Finn]

On the shocks it says 170N which means:

170 newtons = 38.2175203 pounds force each so x 2. (If that is true) Then it means that these shocks arent even close to the hatch weight??????

Someones going to get a perdy phone call in 6 hours time. Where these were sent from. And they were even told the weight of the hatch and size.

Classic Finn

[Dean_A]

Heikki,
I would not go with longer struts. Keep them shorter, but just stronger. the 10/20 ones you have now seem about the right length. They are just too weak. The longer the struts, the more room they take up in the galley, and the less room you have for cabinets.

[tonyj]

Heikki--I'm uploading pics right now. My struts are 12 inch closed, 20 open, so almost like yours. Pics to follow.

[Classic Finn]

Heikki,
I would not go with longer struts. Keep them shorter, but just stronger. the 10/20 ones you have now seem about the right length. They are just too weak. The longer the struts, the more room they take up in the galley, and the less room you have for cabinets.

Dean thats what I was also looking at are the back cabinets.. what do I want I asked myself?? Gas shocks or smaller cabinets than what they are and the wife says I want my cabinets.. forget the shocks.

I,ll call that place in the morning where they came from. and have them exchange these. I think I,ll survive till then.

[Classic Finn]

Heikki--I'm uploading pics right now. My struts are 12 inch closed, 20 open, so almost like yours. Pics to follow.

Okidoki Mr. Tony - Standing By

[tonyj]

This is how mine look installed and hatch open:


This is my distance from the edged to the top of the lower bracket:


This is my distance from the hinge to the upper mount pivot (I was off on the dimension I suggested earlier, although I think six inches is enough--Your hatch doesn't weigh anywhere near what mine does):


This is the length of my strut in the closed position (approximately):


This is the overall length of the strut:


This is the measure from the ground to the bottom edge of the hatch when fully opened. Tall people still have to duck, but at least that corner is at eye level!


If I recall correctly, mine are 120 lb struts.

[Classic Finn]

So Tony I do see that yours are very very similar to ours.. and same length close.

Hmm even looks like the brackets are similar.. Ok.

Ok now I see from your very top photo as to the ball being next to the nearest wall..on mine though I have 2 ribs in one on the very edges..
Maybe a bad error on my part but maybe I should install the top bracket so its directly under the 2 ribs? Would that be ok or no?

[tonyj]

I think if you re-orient your top bracket to match mine, your alignment problem will go away and you won't have to use that wood block at the bottom.

The positioning of the top and bottom brackets can be calculated, but I read Grant's or someone else's advice that said to place the tope bracket at 6 to 8 inches. That just leaves finding where the bottom bracket falls when the hatch is at its fully opened position. That is, of course, unless your hatch is very heavy (or very light) and your struts aren't strong enough (or too strong).

Don't get too frustrated. It can be quite a bit of trial and error. I found my method on the third try and had to do my bit of filling unused holes.

Just remember that your attachment points and screws really need to be up to the task as they will be under a lot of force from the power in those struts.

[Classic Finn]

Tony here is the top bracket we have and the way it was installed.





And Lower Bracket

[toypusher]

Heikki,

May have nothing to do with it, but seems you should switch ends and have the large cylinder up and the piston part down. You may need to switch which end which bracket is on, though!!

[Classic Finn]

Heikki,

May have nothing to do with it, but seems you should switch ends and have the large cylinder up and the piston part down. You may need to switch which end which bracket is on, though!!

Ive got them switched around already.. but not certain of the bracket yet.

Sure hope this thread is helping someone else as were trying to get this resolved here. I think its easier to park a reindeer next to our tear with huge antlers to hold this up

Gee its 0308 and were struttin the gas