Floor Thickness

[JunkMan]

Here's a pic of the bottom of an old (1960's) Apache pop up trailer that I am making into a canoe/kayak trailer. As you can see, the framework is minimal, just a light weight X to mount the springs and the tongue, which is screwed to a 3/4 plywood floor. Across the front and rear are thin angles, that are mostly there for to mount the leveling feet. The steel is less than 1/8 thick, it might not even be 3/32nds thick.

The sides of this trailer are thin aluminum, with large doors in each side, so they don't add much strength (definatly not as much as the side of a TD would).

The "floor" under the bed is 3/8 plywood, with a thin aluminum support wall running under it down the middle, front to rear. When we were still using it as a camper, it had a 3" foam mattress on it, and seemed plenty strong.

If the darn thing was wider (it's only 4' at the outside) I would think about using that frame under my TD, to keep the weight down.

[SteveH]

Of course 1/4" is strong enough. ..

I have an engineer certified set of plans for a utility trailer built out of 3/16" angle that is strong enough. And that's without a box on top. The box adds significantly to the strength...

So what were your thoughts on the floor or the walls? Anything?

Mike...

Mike,

On the floor, if 1/2" is strong enough with only one cross brace in the frame under it, my 3/4" run sideways with a cross brace every 2' is overkill. The problem is, with the way my trailer is built, the floor is the attaching device that holds the box together, and holds the box to the frame.

The original Kit uses a 2 X 2 on the outside of the frame and under the floor that the floor and walls are attached to. It also has special designed torque type axles. If we did that with a current production axle, the wheels and tires would rub the side of the trailer.

About the walls, I'm happy with my 3/4" walls, but again, the Kit was built with 1/2" and it is a 1947 model. So, what does that tell you?

[denverd0n]

Well, based on the discussion here, I think I'm going to make my floor a sandwich construction (everything glued, including the insulation) of 1/4" plywood with 3/4" (1x2) framing between. Walls will be 3/4" framing sandwiched between pieces of 1/8" ply.

[Syekick]

With a floor sandwich the sidewalls get mounted to the metal chassis frame? Yes?

[asianflava]

With a floor sandwich the sidewalls get mounted to the metal chassis frame? Yes?

Mine will be attached to both, all the in shear.

[BufordT]

Reference floor thickness, I saw an original Kit teardrop trailer yesterday (the first one I'd actually seen in person, and it was really cool), anyway, the floor and the side walls are 1/2" plywood, period.

Of course, the walls are covered with aluminum.

The frame is built from 2" channel, with one cross brace, and 1 1/2" V pipe tongue.

We are REALLY overbuilding these things.

I could not agree more with you on this SteveH. We are really over building these trailers. I for one even with all the talk about Harbor Freight trailers think they are overkill for these trailers.
I've been asking for years for a chassis design that one could build that was simple and strong enough for everyone to build no welds. But no one has built one yet. Mike has started one on another part of the board but even it's overkill it think.

As for as the sides and floor go. I'd use 1/2 inch plywood. But then again I'm not much for insulation. Never have been. Doesn't make any since. Insulate the roof but not the sides. You got to sleep with the window open.

Just my opion.

Bufordt

[mikeschn]

I'm working on it. But to make something that easy and light is really harder than it looks.

Human nature tends to want to tie all the metal pieces together before we start tying all the wooden pieces together.

I am searching for the correct balance of metal, wood, asthetics and function!

Mike...

[SteveH]

I think the real problem is the size we want. When you increase the size to 5 X anything, or anything bigger than 4 X 8, you run into all sorts of things to consider such as is the 1 X 2 rafters used in the original now strong enough. Same thing with sides and floors. Then you have all the joints to consider.

Personnally, I think if we want to design a teardrop that is easy and inexpensive to build for the first timer, it needs to be 4 X 8'. But that's just me.

[filewasp]

3M Super 77 is a spray contact cement that I have used with very good results, and it is easy to find in most cases. You might try supply companies catering to the carpet and vynal flooring industry. (Installers)

[GregJ]

Newbe, have been reading a lurking for a few weeks. Great site, thanks Mike.

Looks like this could be posted several places, but has anyone looked at "Superstrut" like their A-1200

http://elec-cat.tnb.com/tnbcat/tnbcat/S ... _home_page

I just saw some today at ACE HW, 4' @ $12 and 10' @ 30 something. Bolt togather, then take to the welders?

A little cheaper than 2" x 2" x 1/8 (at least what I was quoted) and looks easy to use. Just asking. No relation to either company...