Remote mounting window air

[Woody]

I did not post this to start an argument, granted water is used for the heat exchange side, like air is used on the window unit. The operating principle of the A/C cooling is the same, refrigerant and a compressor, heat pump or not. I posted a formula thats is no different than using a residential or commercial A/C formulas which has little to no bearing in a teardrop enviroment either. From one extreme to another. The low insulation R value or lack of it in a teardrop or trailer has little to no formula, way to many variables to include. I found that it usaully takes a lot of information, from a wide variety of sources, to try and figure out the way just to make it understandable. So since the intent of this was not to cause an arugment. All it was is a formula, another way to look at it, that is it.

So you didn't need to get sarcastic about it, I was not trying to be when I posted this formula. You asked my reference and I provided it, a formula I had found. This discussion of teardrop A/C has come up time and time again for years. Nothing has ever been gained or set in stone about the correct way to figure it quite out yet either. Unfortunately to many times the K.I.S.S. principle is thrown away by making it way to scientific. We are building tiny retro trailers, not the Space shuttle. Are we still friends?

[madjack]

...Woody, I will be your friend(can I "borrow" 50 bucks)
madjack

[Woody]

madjack
Sure ya can

[IraRat]

Having accomplished very little this weekend aside from drinking beers and steering at the TD (no money for materials and I'm still waiting for my Birch delivery!), I noticed I might have done something stupid with my AC framing:

With a 4" foam mattress and the unit sitting on the bottom spars, don't I have to come up at least 4 inches? Right now, it's only an inch and a half.

Or will the mattress look okay "squeezed" in there under the AC in that spot?

[Woody]

Your fine

[IraRat]

Your fine

Whew--thanks for letting me know. I was afraid I would be up all night thinking about this.

So let me hijack the thread for another post from you:

As you know, I'm using a tarp to cover my masterpiece--because it's outside and you just never KNOW when we're finally going to get some rain down here! (In 3 months, they'll be talking about a drought.) The tarp has worked okay, and with the spars up, I laid a couple of loose timbers crosswise so water wouldn't pool up too much between the spars, and sag down and ultimately leak.

Well, with the torrents, I do get some pooling, and a very slight drip from time to time onto the floor which is okay. I'm talking a tiny amount of water, even after a big storm, and I sealed the deck. (I might have gotten a small hole in the tarp, or maybe they're just not designed to hold pools of water like this for hours on end.)

I'm concerned about this once the interior ceiling is in, though. Is a coat of deck sealer okay on this temporarily vulnerable back side, or should I varnish, to be safe? And if varnish, will one coat do it?

[Woody]

IraRat,
I am building my second one outside also. I skinned the interior roof and insulated mine the same day. Then I laid a piece of plywood over the roof, put some blocks underneath to give it slope for water runoff. Then covered it with a heavy duty tarp. It has rained here as you know almost everyday since May 15. It is dry as the sahara inside as we speak. I was working inside even during the rain. It worked for me, although I have not touched it due to weather

[WoodSmith]

IRA,

While you are whileing away your weekend not working on your tear, go for a road trip to the nearest place they are putting up McMansions. If Florida is anything like RTP NC, it should be about a 2 minute ride. Look at all the huge houses going up during the torrents that you have been telling us about. Look at the decking and framing that is getting regularly soaked and compare it to the drips that are getting on your tear deck.

Then go home and drink an adult beverage.

Sealing the deck ain't a bad idea, 'specially if ya already got the sealant and are waiting for your birch to show up and got nothing else to do in the meantime. One coat is good, two is better, three gives you practice so when you put the sealer on the walls and roof you know how to put it on and make it look nice.

[IraRat]

Hey, Glen--I like that! McMansions! (And with the prices they're asking, they actually THINK they're mansions!)

Okay, Woody--that's the answer then. A simple piece of ply! (And I don't think I'll have any problem finding a piece that's warped just right!)

But both of you:

Is the deck sealer enough to permanently seal that other side, like Thompson's ? Or is varnish a better option? For the interior skins, I used the Thompson's on the backsides.

[Woody]

Varnish

[WoodSmith]

But both of you:

Is the deck sealer enough to permanently seal that other side, like Thompson's ? Or is varnish a better option? For the interior skins, I used the Thompson's on the backsides.

I agree with Woody, varnish would be better. What kind of floor are you putting down eventually? If you are gluing, say, a vinyl floor down, I'm not sure if the deck sealers would be compatible with the glue.

[IraRat]

What kind of floor are you putting down eventually? If you are gluing, say, a vinyl floor down, I'm not sure if the deck sealers would be compatible with the glue.

Carpet, so not an issue.