Uber Ultra-light tear

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby aggie79 » Mon Mar 02, 2009 9:28 am

kennyrayandersen wrote:The walls are a total of 1 inch thick. I'm thinking to lay-up the door cutout and door frame together (built as one piece), then just cutting the door out. Then I can wrap the edge of the door and wrap the door jam after they are separated.


I am doing a similar method. In the picture below, you can see the 3/4"plywood "framing". The door is completely routed through except where you see the red marks. In those locations, I only routed to a depth of 1/2". I will cutout the doors after both sides are skinned.

Image

One note - I used a 1/4" spiral bit. That is too much clearance between the door and opening. I will be wrapping the jamb and the door with 1/16" wide aluminum which will reduce the gap to 1/8".
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Postby kennyrayandersen » Mon Mar 02, 2009 10:16 am

I like that. I'm wondering a little about the hardware. Is there a striker plate? Does it have to be recessed? Or are you just going to put a hole for the latch in the trim you are talking about? Is the installation similar to a standard door knob install in a house? I was thinking just to leave the thickness of a saw blade.
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Postby angib » Mon Mar 02, 2009 11:18 am

kennyrayandersen wrote:to calculate the bearing load I need to know the dimension between the ball center......

I'll be fascinated to see the loading side of your analysis - I wonder if you will go to great detail on the structure side and then have to just take a WAG on the loading side of the equation?

The only source I've seen on trailer loads that has much sense to it is the Australian Trailer Design Rules:
http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/ ... _01_b.aspx
which require that the drawbar (tongue) is able to carry a load of half the trailer weight vertically and transversely and 1.5 times the trailer weight longitudinally (probably not simultaneously, but that's not made clear).

This covers things like utility trailers and experience on this forum with more carefully loaded teardrops suggests that a vertical strength of a quarter of the trailer weight is safe. Transverse strength does not appear to be as critical as transverse stiffness - transverse failures seem to be unknown, whereas we have had some reports of 'shimmy' that was cured by adding diagonals (ie, massively increasing transverse stiffness).

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Postby aggie79 » Mon Mar 02, 2009 12:39 pm

kennyrayandersen wrote:I like that. I'm wondering a little about the hardware. Is there a striker plate? Does it have to be recessed? Or are you just going to put a hole for the latch in the trim you are talking about? Is the installation similar to a standard door knob install in a house? I was thinking just to leave the thickness of a saw blade.


I'm using a mortise lockset.

Image

This is different than a standard house-type lockset. Among other things a residential lockset needs 1 3/8" to 1 3/4" door thickness. In the picture below, you can see the pocket (mortise) that I routed. (I still need to square the corners.) On the jamb side there will be a striker plate and I will need to cut a mortises for the striker and deadbolt.

Image
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Postby brian_bp » Mon Mar 02, 2009 7:07 pm

angib wrote:...The only source I've seen on trailer loads that has much sense to it is the Australian Trailer Design Rules:
http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/ ... _01_b.aspx
which require that the drawbar (tongue) is able to carry a load of half the trailer weight vertically and transversely and 1.5 times the trailer weight longitudinally (probably not simultaneously, but that's not made clear).

The old Vehicle Equipment Safety Commission Regulations (specifically VESC-5), and the corresponding SAE standard (J684) both similarly express loads as fractions of the trailer weight, or as absolute values. Both describe how to combine forces in testing.

The VESC-5 standard is the "V-5" refered to in the markings on various towing equipment.

The SAE standard is not freely available, but university engineering libraries should typically have a copy in the reference section (the local one here does, for instance).
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Postby kennyrayandersen » Tue Mar 03, 2009 4:06 am

Aggie,
Not to seem dumb or anything, but now that you routed all your wood out -- what holds in the handle?

Loads:
I accidentally had some experience in trailer design one time when I got laid off early in my illustrious aerospace career. I worked for a buddy that is an OEM trailer manufacturer and designed a lowboy for him. I'm writing something up right now about tongues, and not the French kind! Will post shortly.
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Postby aggie79 » Tue Mar 03, 2009 9:02 am

kennyrayandersen wrote:Aggie,
Not to seem dumb or anything, but now that you routed all your wood out -- what holds in the handle?


The inside skin of the door will cover up the pocket so the only opening will be at the edge of the door. The mortise lockset will fit into the mortise pocket. There are inside and outside trim plates that go on either side of the mortise. This is a picture of the lockset I'm using:

Image

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Postby kennyrayandersen » Tue Mar 03, 2009 10:29 am

Investigations in to weight-saving for tongue

First I’d like to start by suggesting that the Australian guidelines are pretty close, but may be slightly, to significantly unconservative. I say this because I am aware that trailer designers use an over-the-road factor of 3gs and an off-road factor of 5gs when analyzing the stresses in trailers. What I found in my case, assuming a 20% maximum tongue weight is that I got a higher moment than the Aussies did. Now there are lots of assumptions (primarily how much of the trailer’s weight is on the tongue) that go into the calculation and it’s probably OK for the over-the-road trailer, but in the case of Dave Nathanson and his off-road trailer, it likely results in under-sizing the tongue. Had Dave used the off-road 5g factor, he would have calculated much more moment and this would have resulted in a more robust tongue. The calculation for determining the bending moment is pretty simple (some of the other structural calculations are a bit more math-intensive) and I think most capable of using it. The steel sizes can then be looked up in the Tongue Strength Sheet after the moment is calculated.

Step 1 – tongue weight
Interestingly, since these little teardrops have a lot of weight in the aft, should you leave your 5 gallon water jug or 80Lb cooler at home, your tongue weight can go up significantly. What I did was use the trailer balance spreadsheet to calculate the tongue weight depending on what was loaded into the trailer. I started full up and estimated that I’d have about 50 Lb on the ball. Then I started unloading stuff out of the back – water, ice chest, propane, etc. The weight went up to nearly 80 Lb. Since that didn’t include any misc crap in the sleeping area, which would make the weight go up further, I decided to use 100 Lbs as the maximum that the ball would see. This also corresponds to 20% of the trailer weight, which I don’t think is too crazy and this offers what appears to be a nice wide tongue load range.

Calculating the moment is quite simple, it’s just the weight times the distance from the ball to where the trailer makes contact.
In my case, since my trailer will not be going off-road [on purpose anyway]:

M = tongue weight * dist from ball to tear contact point * gfactor
M = 100 * 42 * 3 = 12,600 in-lb

The Australian method comes up with:
M = 500 * 42 * .5 = 10,500 in-lb

This is 20% less than the actual calculation yields. Since I only assumed a maximum of 20% on the tongue, this method could be unconservative. I think the Puffin, for instance, had a tongue weight that exceeded 20%, or was that the time he forgot to remove the jack stands (I could be ‘dis-remembering’ that). The good news is since you are unlikely to encounter an actual 3g dip in the road the 20% difference in the calculation methods won’t likely result in a catastrophic failure of the tongue. Still, 3gs are what the real guys use, for the trailer anyway (according to the trailer design handbook I read many moons ago when I designed a BIG trailer for a guy to haul a bulldozer on). Enter this in the FWIW dept. Anyway, since it’s such a simple calculation, why not use it? I believe that what they have done to make it easier for the fabricator is to try and simplify it by making an assumption about the percent of the total trailer weight that is on the ball -- in this case 16.6%. If an 800 Lb trailer had 160 Lb on the tongue -- that would be 20%. The problem is you have a truly off-road trailer the tongue will likely be undersized. The loading between highway and off-road is certainly not going to be the same. I remember clearly that the handbook recommended 5gs for off road. I can only imagine where some guy with a 4WD would drag that hapless tear! In the end, you should weigh the tongue once you load up (or not load up – with stuff just in the cabin like AC mattress misc.) and double check the tongue strength based on the actual weight and g-loading rather than to assume anything.

Step 2 – calculating the stress
The stress is independent of the material. It’s a function of the load and the geometry. Here we luck out, if using a rectangle or square section, because the stress is very easy to calculate (angles are more complicated, but the data needed use usually in a chart, and doesn’t actually have to be calculated) for either of these two sections.

The general equation for stress (bending) is f = Mc/I
Where f is the stress, M is the moment, c is the distance from the section centroid to the outer edge, which in the case of the square or rectangle is just ½ the height, and I is the moment of inertia.

The moment of inertia for a solid section is: I = 1/12 * b * h^3
Where b is the width and h is the height.
To get the moment of inertia of a hollow section in the case of a square or rectangle, we just calculate the outside and subtract the inside:
I hollow rectangular section = 1/12 *(b outside * h outside ^3 – B inside * h inside^3)
This, for a square, the equation further reduces to:
I hollow square section = 1/12 * (h outside^4 – h inside^4)

Let’s use uber-ultra as example
At 12,600 in-lb, looking at the tongue strength sections listed in the table, we could go with a 2”x2”x.125 or a 2”x3”x.083 (14gage) The weights are similar, but with the advantage that the height gives the Moment of inertia in the calculation (h cubed), the taller section is just a bit lighter. Let’s calculate the stress in either section:

2x3 rectangular section (wall is .083 thick -- 14 gage):
I 2x3x14 gage = 1/12*(2 * 3^3 - 1.834 * 2.884^3) = .8339 in^4
f bending = 12,600*1.5/.8339 = 22.6 Ksi

2x2 square section (wall is .125 thick)
I2x2 = 1/12*(2^4 - 1.75^4) = .5518 in^4
F bending = 12,600*1.0/.5518 = 22.8 Ksi

The stress is the same, but the section that is taller and thinner is lighter
The 2x2 section weighs 3.05 lb/ft and the 2x3 section weighs 2.67 lb/ft

Hummmh.

Since both of these are well under the 31.5 Ksi allowable for strength either can be used, but with an 8 ft piece of tongue, the 2x3 section is 2.6 Lb lighter.
Since the stress doesn’t change due to material, we are able to make a straight material substitution and save some weight with some decent aluminum.

Aluminum Square Tube is produced primarily in 6063 and 6061 alloys. It has square defined corners on both the inside radius and outside radius.

6063-T52 is the lower strength of the two alloys and is generally produced in thinner wall sizes but has better corrosion resistance and finishing qualities than 6061.
Fty = 21Ksi, Ftu = 27Ksi

6061-T6511 has more strength for structural applications requiring high strength yet a light weight material.
Fty = 35 Ksi, Ftu = 42Ksi

As can be seen from the above numbers, the 6061-T6511 is as good as the steel (now some steels are WAY better, but this ain’t one of them); so, we COULD make a direct substitution for the steel with the 6061-T6XXX. However, after much searching, I could not find either of these sizes in 14 gage, which is a pity – that would be the maximum weight saving for metallic. Oh well, if someone finds a source for the 14 gage 6061 in a 2x3 size, do let me know.

So, we still have a couple of choices. We could make a direct substitution for the 2x2 stock, since the stress is below the aluminum allowable.
Density of aluminum = .101 lb/in^3
Density of steel = .284 lb/in^3
8 ft steel 2x3 = 21.36 lb
8 ft alum 2x2 = 9.09 lb
That’s a savings of 12.27 lb – not insignificant.

If you could manage to find the 2x3 14 gage aluminum, the weight would be a mere 7.6 Lb with a weight savings of 13.8 lb.

The 8 ft aluminum tongue runs about $45 dollars, excluding shipping, but as weight goes, this one seems pretty cheap.

Having said all of that, there is one consideration not yet addressed and that is stiffness. While it is correct that the aluminum weighs about 1/3 of the steel. Unfortunately it also had only about a third of the stiffness. What does that mean. It means more displacement for the same load – approximately 3 times as much. This means that the trailer will be a little more lively (bouncy). The deflection at 300 lb (of course this is the maximum design-to load) is .82 inches (FEM derived) with the 2x2 steel, therefore, the aluminum would displace 2.4 inches for maximum design-to condition. Maybe it’s not that big of a deal, since we really hope never to see that kind of a sinkhole in the road, but even at 1 g the deflection is .82 inches -- seems kind of high.

Hmmmm..
OK, there is still a little something up my sleeve. How about if we sacrificed a little bit of the weight for a lot more stiffness. How about we go back to the 2x3 section and instead of the 14 gage, which is apparently unavailable anyway, we go to the 11 gage (.12 wall thickness) which is actually available.

I 2x3x.125 = 1/12*(2*3^3-1.75*2.75^3) = 1.4671 in^4
f 2x3x.125 = Mc/I = 12,600*1.5/1.4671 = 12.88 Ksi
Now that stress is LOW – we could even use the sort of crappy 6063-T52, and the deflection, compared to the steel 2x2 is pretty similar:

deflection = 1/3 (PL^3)/EI
deflection 2x2 steel = 1/3(300*42^3)/((29e6*.5518) = .46 in
deflection 2x3 alum = 1/3(300*42^3)/10.3e6*1.4671) = .49 in
Since I'm pretty confident that the 2x2 steel would work, and considering the deflection is pretty darn close the 2x3x.12 Al should be OK as well.

The actual deflection will be slightly larger as the beam isn't perfectly fixed, but is gives us a relative comparison between the two.
The weight saving is still 21.36 – 11.57 = 9.8 lb and the stress very low and the deflection acceptable. I can tell you folks in my business would nearly kill to save 10 lb.

I won't go into too much detail about the composite beam I was investigating (like I didn't go though too much detail already!), but suffice it to day that unless you were willing to spend a lot on graphite to get the stiffness higher, it's just too flexible out of fiberglass. I was able to configure it so that the stresses were all acceptable and the weight low; but, the deflections were much larger than either the aluminum or steel – so much so that I don't think a glass only beam-type tongue would work (Andrews large nose of a tongue might well, but not a standard beam) – it would be way too bouncy.

I'll post a picture of the models of the beams when I get a chance -- it's past midnight and my brain is fading... :?
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Postby bbarry » Tue Mar 03, 2009 10:49 am

Wow! :? :? :? :? :? :?

I don't consider myself dumb, but boy do I feel dumb! I think all the time, work and thought you are putting into your design is great. I couldn't do it, that's for sure...but am looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

My method of calculating a replacement tongue:
I need a scrap piece of steel about "yay" long and 2" square x Here's one at the steel yard / looks sturdy = 44lbs of 1/4" wall 2x2 tube.

Congrats for doing on your first one what everybody says they'll do for their second: build lighter!

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Postby Arne » Tue Mar 03, 2009 10:58 am

I had a one time thought of making the tongue by laying up 3/4 ply pieces to come up with a 2x3 beam. The only reason would be weight savings, but never followed up on it.... it still haunts me, though... in addition I would consider a fiberglass wrap, but it start to get too complicated and went with steel.

That was all during my 'build a t/d using only wood' phase...
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Postby kennyrayandersen » Tue Mar 03, 2009 5:30 pm

Brad,
If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bull.... :?

Actually doing the composites light-weight and strong etc. can be a pretty big challenge to do right, but usually that doesn't slow anybody down. you can start really light and add to it until it quits breaking (philosophy #1), or you can build the snot out of it and pay the weight and cost penalty (philosophy #2), or lastly, you can get to cipherin' (philosophy #3) -- they all will git 'er done!

Arne,
Wood will definitely work -- you may have to do a little here and there but the allowable stresses for the wood is published and available free on the internet! I've even seen some turn-of-the-century race cars with huge aircraft engines in them that had wood frames. They are 85 years old and still running around the track -- just watch out for termites!
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Postby kennyrayandersen » Tue Mar 03, 2009 10:52 pm

From top to bottom:

Fiberglass composite, thickness varies (optimized for stress/strain)

2x2x.125 wall, steel

2x2x.125 wall, aluminum

2x3x.125 wall, aluminum

not shown 2x3x.083, which would have less displacement than the Aluminum 2x3x.125

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Postby bbarry » Tue Mar 03, 2009 10:59 pm

kennyrayandersen wrote:Brad,
If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bull.... :?

Actually doing the composites light-weight and strong etc. can be a pretty big challenge to do right, but usually that doesn't slow anybody down. you can start really light and add to it until it quits breaking (philosophy #1), or you can build the snot out of it and pay the weight and cost penalty (philosophy #2), or lastly, you can get to cipherin' (philosophy #3) -- they all will git 'er done!



I guess that puts me in the #2 camp? I dunno, all that plussin and minussin sure makes my head hurt. :? :? I like your pretty pictures though! :lol: :lol:

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Postby Trackstriper » Tue Mar 03, 2009 11:47 pm

How do you attach the aluminum tongue to the composite body? Is it glassed into the structure?
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Postby kennyrayandersen » Wed Mar 04, 2009 6:35 am

Investigations in to weight-saving for tongue, take 2

I'm not going to erase the first posting, but I discovered that my 42 inch overhang could be more like 30 inches – what was I thinking. :DOH2: Well a couple of things are demonstrated: the amount of weight to be saved is a function of the overall loading, and the higher the loads, and or heavier the trailer, the more weight-saving potential exists. For a really light trailer, there isn't as much weight to save because the overall weight the react the smaller loads is less to begin with. In the first posting, with a longer overhang, and more moment, the ultimate weight-saving is more significant. Mostly, what happens when everything gets really light, is that the very thin gages that could be tolerated, don't even exist (or would be expensive to custom make); so, though you could theoretically reduce the weight, a lot, practically, you may not be able to reduce as much as theory suggest (but you can still save a significant amount). If you have a light trailer, follow the second posting, if you have a heavier trailer, follow the first.

First I’d like to start by suggesting that the Australian guidelines are pretty close, but may be slightly, to significantly unconservative. I say this because I am aware that trailer designers use an over-the-road factor of 3gs and an off-road factor of 5gs when analyzing the stresses in trailers. What I found in my case, assuming a 20% maximum tongue weight is that I got a higher moment than the Aussies did. Now there are lots of assumptions (primarily how much of the trailer’s weight is on the tongue) that go into the calculation and it’s probably OK for the over-the-road trailer, but in the case of Dave Nathanson and his off-road trailer, it likely results in under-sizing the tongue. Had Dave used the off-road 5g factor, he would have calculated much more moment and this would have resulted in a more robust tongue. The calculation for determining the bending moment is pretty simple (some of the other structural calculations are a bit more math-intensive) and I think most capable of using it. The steel sizes can then be looked up in the Tongue Strength Sheet after the moment is calculated.

Step 1 – tongue weight
Interestingly, since these little teardrops have a lot of weight in the aft, should you leave your 5 gallon water jug or 80Lb cooler at home, your tongue weight can go up significantly. What I did was use the trailer balance spreadsheet to calculate the tongue weight depending on what was loaded into the trailer. I started full up and estimated that I’d have about 50 Lb on the ball. Then I started unloading stuff out of the back – water, ice chest, propane, etc. The hitch weight went up to nearly 90 Lb. Since that didn’t include any misc crap in the sleeping area, which would make the weight go up further, I decided to use 100 Lbs as the maximum that the ball would see. This also corresponds to 20% of the trailer weight, which I don’t think is too crazy and this offers what appears to be a nice wide tongue load range.

Calculating the moment is quite simple, it’s just the weight times the distance from the ball to where the trailer makes contact.
In my case, since my trailer will not be going off-road [on purpose anyway]:

M = tongue weight * dist from ball to tear contact point * gfactor
M = 100 * 30 * 3 = 9,000 in-lb

The Australian method comes up with:
M = 500 * 30 * .5 = 7,500 in-lb

This is 20% less than the actual calculation yields. Since I only assumed a maximum of 20% on the tongue, the Aussie method could be unconservative. I think the Puffin, for instance, had a tongue weight that exceeded 20%, or was that the time he forgot to remove the jack stands (I could be ‘dis-remembering’ that). The good news is since you are unlikely to encounter a 3g dip in the road that 20% difference in the calculation method won’t likely result in a catastrophic failure of the tongue. Still, 3gs are what the real design guys use, for the trailer anyway (according to the trailer design handbook I read many moons ago when I designed a BIG trailer for a guy to haul a bulldozer on). Enter this in the FWIW dept. Anyway, since it’s such a simple calculation, why not use it? I believe that what the Aussies have done to make it easier for the fabricator is to try and simplify it by making an assumption about the percent of the total trailer weight that is on the ball -- in this case 16.6%. If an 800 Lb trailer had 160 Lb on the tongue -- that would be 20%. The problem is you have a truly off-road trailer the tongue will likely be undersized. The loading between highway and off-road is certainly not going to be the same. I remember clearly that the handbook recommended 5gs for off road. I can only imagine where some guy with a 4WD could drag that hapless little tear! In the end, you should weigh the tongue once you load up (or not loaded up – with stuff just in the cabin like AC mattress misc.) and double check the tongue strength based on the actual weight and g-loading rather than to assume anything.

Step 2 – calculating the stress
The stress is independent of the material. It’s a function of the load and the geometry. Here we luck out, if using a rectangle or square section, because the stress is very easy to calculate (angles are more complicated, but the data needed use usually in a chart, and doesn’t actually have to be calculated) for either of these two sections.

The general equation for stress (bending) is f = Mc/I
Where f is the stress, M is the moment, c is the distance from the section centroid to the outer edge, which in the case of the square or rectangle is just ½ the height, and I is the moment of inertia.

The moment of inertia for a solid section is: I = 1/12 * b * h^3
Where b is the width and h is the height.
To get the moment of inertia of a hollow section in the case of a square or rectangle, we just calculate the outside and subtract the inside:
I hollow rectangular section = 1/12 *(b outside * h outside ^3 – B inside * h inside^3)

This, for a square, the equation further reduces to:
I hollow square section = 1/12 * (h outside^4 – h inside^4)
Let’s use uber-ultra as example

At 9,000 in-lb, looking at the tongue strength sections listed in the tongue strength table, we could go with a 1”x2”x.125 or a 2”x2”x.065 (16gage) The weights are similar, but with the 2x2 section has the advantage in as much as there is more area in the upper and lower flanges, so it stronger in the vertical and because it's twice as wide it's also much much stronger in the horizontal. Because it has a higher moment of inertia, it's a bit lighter as well. Let’s calculate the stress in either section:

gage 11 1x2 rectangular section (wall is .125 thick):
I 2x3x14 gage = 1/12*(1 * 2^3 - .75 * 1.75^3) = .3317 in^4
f bending = 9,000*1.0/.3317 = 27 Ksi

16 gage 2x2 square section (wall is .065 thick)
I2x2 = 1/12*(2^4 - 1.87^4) = .3143 in^4
F bending = 9,000*1.0/.3143 = 28.6 Ksi

The stress is the same similar, but the square section is lighter.
The 1x2 section weighs 2.2 lb/ft and the 2x2 section weighs 1.67 lb/ft

Hummmh.

Since both of these are under the 31.5 Ksi allowable for strength either can be used, but with a 6 ft piece of tongue, the 2x2 section is 3.2 Lb lighter. Total weight is 1.67 * 6 = 10.02 lb and it fits a standard coupler.

Since the stress doesn’t change due to material, we can make a straight material substitution and save some weight.

Aluminum Square Tube is produced in 6063 and 6061 alloys. It has square defined corners on both the inside radius and outside radius.

6063-T52 is the lower strength of the two alloys and is generally produced in thinner wall sizes but has better corrosion resistance and finishing qualities than 6061.
Fty = 21Ksi, Ftu = 27Ksi

6061-T6511 has more strength for structural applications requiring high strength yet a light weight material.
Fty = 35 Ksi, Ftu = 42Ksi

As can be seen from the above numbers, the 6061 T6511 is as good as the steel (now some steels are WAY better, but this ain’t one of them); so, we COULD make a direct substitution for the steel with the 6061-T6XXX. However, after much searching, I could not find either of these sizes in 16 or even 14 gage, which is a pity – that would be the maximum weight saving for metallic. Oh well, if someone finds a source for the 16, or 14 gage 6061, do let me know. :x

11 gage Aluminum Square Tubing 6061 T6511 2.0" X 72" .125" Wall Thickness 1.136 lb/ft * 6ft =6.82 Lb
14 gage Aluminum Square Tubing 6061 T6511 2.0" X 72" .083" Wall Thickness .77 lb/ft * 6ft = 4.63 Lb
16 gage Aluminum Square Tubing 6061 T6511 2.0" X 72" .065" Wall Thickness .61 lb/ft * 6ft = 3.66 Lb

We could have saved 10.02 – 3.66 = 6.36 Lb, but due to material availability, we are able to save just 3.2 Lb

http://www.industrialmetalsales.com/1432.html the price for a 6 foot piece is $28.72 which ain’t bad and considering the steel will cost something, then the cost is only the difference between the two.

Density of aluminum = .101 lb/in^3
Density of steel = .284 lb/in^3

So we had to get a little thicker wall – let’s see what that does to the stress

The 11 gage 2x2 square section (wall is .12 thick)
I2x2 = 1/12*(2^4 - 1.76^4) = .5337 in^4
F bending = 9,000*1.0/.5337 = 16.8 Ksi

The good news is that stress is low enough that you could use the lower-grade 6063-T52 if you happened to get a deal on it, but the price from Industrial Metals was lower than what I saw listed for the lesser alloy, so why not get the good stuff for less.

Deflection comparison
1/3* P*L^3/(E*I)
Aluminum
1/3*300*30^3/(10.3e6*.5337) = .49 in
Steel
1/3*300*30^3/(29e6*.3143) = .29 in

Neither is a big deal, so the Aluminum is a weight saver and the stress well under the requirement.
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