Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I finally got started somewhat. I decided to make a template out of 1/4 ply. My question is, how did you join the 2 pieces of ply and still have it flat? Looks too thin for biscuits.

On the walls, where are you guys putting the plywood gap on the sidewalls? I'm thinking about putting it on the hinged side of the door. since it will reinforced for the hinges anyway.

What are you guys using as studs aka, stringers aka, hardpoints aka, closeouts? I'm using pine boards but I think they are thicker than the rigid insulation that I'm using. Since I want to glue both facings to the insulation I want all the pieces to be the same thickness. I want to vacuum bag the walls and I'm afraid that the diferences in thickness may show. Am I being to picky or should I buy a thickness planer? I saw this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=42283&item=4324402553&rd=1

First of all, on joining the 1/4" plywood... you can't.

You have to look at it like a skin, that's going to cover a frame. To do that I took a 1x6 stud, and put the joint right on the middle. So it's basically a butt joint.



As for the studs and the insulation, they should both be 3/4" thick. (Don't use furring strips, as those are thinner, per Arne.)

I plan on doing a lamination with the pink extruded polystyrene too!

Mike...

RE the template: My teardrop's 10 ft long, however, it's not 'curvy' for its entire length. I used a 4' x 8' sheet of 1/4" masonite as a template and positioned it as required. IE, I cut the front of the sidewall, moved the template back two feet, then cut the rear.

Sure you can join the plywood: do a search for "scarf" on this site or the larger web. Boat builders make some really long sheets this way. Don't know if it would be worth it for your template though.

You will want your insulation the same thickness as your studs, or you will be using tons of a gap-filling adhesive (thickened epoxy) or will not be getting a good bond, which kind of defeats the purpose. Perhaps it would be better to buy some lumber that is milled to the right thickness. Most custom lumber places will do it for you. And usually cheaper than the off the rack stuff (that you have to extensively cull anyway) at the big box stores. Just a thought...

Rik

Flava, For my studs (hardpoints) I ripped a nice 2 by 6 into strips. That way, I got strips exactly as thick as the insulation. Mike's right, as usuall , I spliced the 1/4" ply for patterns with a butt joint backed up with more 1/4" ply. In use, the brace, splice reinforcment, is facing up as you trace/router, whatever. When you frame around the door omening, use a hardwood, ash, oak, or maple, on the hinge side. Screws will hold really well in the hardwood, won't be as apt to work out. Predrill the screw holes.