Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi,
The Generic Benroy plans call for bolting the floor to the frame. Does this mean it is ok to drill holes in the chassis steel (mine will be 2x2 1/8 square tubing) or do I need to weld tabs to the frame and drill those. How much drilling can I do to a chassis before structural integrety is threatened?
Thanks.
Kris

Simple solution is use deck screws

Ka,
I drilled mine. I think most people do. You, however are having your trailer made so I would go ahead and put some plate in the corners for bolts. Perhaps someone who has a picture will post one.

Miriam.

Nitetimes wrote:Simple solution is use deck screws

...we used those ourselves....however we built the entire unit independent of the frame and the attached the "box" to the frame thru the sides...we drilled the wood with a 1/4" bit then the steel with the recommended 7/32....this kept the ply from "pulling" as the screw went into the the steel....
madjack

Thanks Miriam, Madjack, and Rich,
There is so much to think about.
Kris

My scad-a-bout frame had tabs that was used to screw the floor to the frame

Thanks Kartvines,
It sounds like there are several ways to do this.
Kris

Are the deck screws really strong enough? How many or how far apart would you space them. My frame is boxed and I was wounering how to attach the floor. If they are strong enough, that would solve that problem.
Thanks, Dave

heydave wrote:Are the deck screws really strong enough? How many or how far apart would you space them. My frame is boxed and I was wounering how to attach the floor. If they are strong enough, that would solve that problem.
Thanks, Dave

They are plenty strong. I believe I put 6 on each X-member, maybe 7.
You can see them across the front here.


We used them to hold the decks on heavy equipment trailers (2" oak) and I don't recall any boards ever blowing off.
They are actually stronger than your average 1/4" carraige bolt because they are hardened. Also no crawling underneath to put nuts on and tighten.

Here's a couple of better shots.





You don't really need a whole lot of them, just enough to hold it down.

All of the answers I've seen so far work fine.

Typically I run a bolt thru the floor, with a nut underneath. Yes, you might want to consider a counter bore for the bolt head.

But you could use self tapping screws if you have enough of them...

You want to consider the shear strength of the bolts or screws when sizing them. Especially if you have to stop quick... (or if you get stopped quick). Can you imagine backing into a campsite, hitting a tree, and your teardrop body comes off the trailer cause your screws were too small?



Mike...

I ran a bead of construction adhesive across the frame members as I layed the plywood down. Just a little more strength and a better seal I believe.

Dave there not talking about deck screws for a out door deck. But floor screws made for heavy haul trailers. They usually come in to Dia. 1/4"
and 5/16" in assorted lengths and yes they are strong enough usually only 2 screws per 12" wide flooring every X-member. To install drill 7/32" hole through wood and ream slightly and finish drilling through frameing. For 5/16" screws Same as above but 9/32" drill bit.

Kris, I welded tabs and bolted thru the floor. I used a forstner bit to sink the head of carriage bolts. Here's some picts.
http://tnttt.com/album_ ... ic_id=1993
http://tnttt.com/album_ ... ic_id=2067

Thanks for all the replies. I would be lost without this forum.
Kris