Torpedo Hinge - Offset Mount ???

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Torpedo Hinge - Offset Mount ???

Postby Loader » Thu Aug 10, 2006 7:20 am

Being a person with no door hanging experience; I am wondering :thinking: about the need for the offset mount of the torpedo style lift off hinges.

I see nearly all installs are offset, but what is the real reason for it? Does it provide additional clearance to all allow the door to open? Is it because of the trim work being installed? When I see piano hinges installed, they don't look like they are offset, so why mount the lift-off style offset?

Thanks for the time.
Earl & Kerry

"Loader"

Blue Yonder Build Thread - viewtopic.php?f=50&t=42611

ImageImage
User avatar
Loader
Platinum Donating Member
 
Posts: 1584
Images: 245
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2005 2:33 pm
Location: Fort Worth, Texas

Postby Nitetimes » Thu Aug 10, 2006 8:01 am

It's to give you clearance to get the weather seal in there. :thumbsup:
Rich


Image
ImageImage
-
The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to
keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves
against tyranny in government.
- Thomas Jefferson -
Personally, I carry a gun because I'm too young to die and too old to take a butt kickin'.
User avatar
Nitetimes
7000 Club
7000 Club
 
Posts: 7909
Images: 194
Joined: Sat Feb 12, 2005 12:44 am
Location: Butler,PA

Postby Loader » Thu Aug 10, 2006 9:04 am

Makes sense, a clearance issue. Thanks Rich!
Earl & Kerry

"Loader"

Blue Yonder Build Thread - viewtopic.php?f=50&t=42611

ImageImage
User avatar
Loader
Platinum Donating Member
 
Posts: 1584
Images: 245
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2005 2:33 pm
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Top

Postby bledsoe3 » Thu Aug 10, 2006 10:28 am

Earl, I just used a piece of 1/4" ply to make a spacer (offset). I was rushing to make the IRG so it's not trimmed yet, but you can see it here.
http://tnttt.com/album_ ... c_id=10168
If you do what you've always done, you'll get what you've always got.
User avatar
bledsoe3
3000 Club
3000 Club
 
Posts: 3694
Images: 112
Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2005 5:55 am
Location: Oregon, Portland
Top

Postby Loader » Thu Aug 10, 2006 11:27 am

Thanks for the link/photo. You think the wooden spacer/shim is best? I was looking at an aluminum spacer, although, then you get into the dissimilar metals game, and may create an environment for corrosion.
Earl & Kerry

"Loader"

Blue Yonder Build Thread - viewtopic.php?f=50&t=42611

ImageImage
User avatar
Loader
Platinum Donating Member
 
Posts: 1584
Images: 245
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2005 2:33 pm
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Top

Postby madjack » Thu Aug 10, 2006 12:14 pm

Earl, if you are skinning in AL it doesn't matter cause you all ready have a dissimilar metals deal going...we applied auto windshield sealant to the any SS to AL joins to help with that problem but it is probably not needed other than as a water seal...the other part of your question is that if you use "T" molding to trim/seal the door you will need the spacer for clearance issues as Jim said...if you are doing something similar to what we did for trim/seal(an internal seal) on your doors, the the shim is not needed
madjack 8)
...I have come to believe that, conflict resolution, through violence, is never acceptable.....................mj
User avatar
madjack
Site Admin
 
Posts: 15128
Images: 177
Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2004 5:27 pm
Location: Central Louisiana
Top

Postby Gern Blanston » Thu Aug 10, 2006 12:51 pm

I'm a big fan of the torpedo hinges, but as stated above, you do need to shim them for clearance. We made our spacers out of aluminum plate, and I too was curious about the compatibility of the dissimilar metals. (My trailer is aluminum skinned also.)

The hinges are made of zinc diecast w/chrome plating. The chrome plated hinge has an anodic index of 0.60, where the aluminum has an anodic index of .75. This difference of 0.15 is right at the edge of acceptable compatibility requirements for harsh environments (outdoors, high humidity, salt).

http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm

I suspect that hinges and aluminum spacers will last a long time and stay strong.

Gern
User avatar
Gern Blanston
Teardrop Advisor
 
Posts: 76
Images: 65
Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 5:38 pm
Location: Texas Panhandle
Top

Postby Loader » Thu Aug 10, 2006 12:52 pm

Thanks Jack. I plan to have a painted exterior finish, so no metal there. I was initailly planning on doing like Jim did on is, however, perhaps a closer look at the Gator is in order.

Thanks Guys!
Earl & Kerry

"Loader"

Blue Yonder Build Thread - viewtopic.php?f=50&t=42611

ImageImage
User avatar
Loader
Platinum Donating Member
 
Posts: 1584
Images: 245
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2005 2:33 pm
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Top

Postby bledsoe3 » Fri Aug 11, 2006 12:15 am

Earl, I used wood cause that's what my sides will be. I bought t-molding and seal from Grant and my doors need a firm push for them to latch. The seal is good.
If you do what you've always done, you'll get what you've always got.
User avatar
bledsoe3
3000 Club
3000 Club
 
Posts: 3694
Images: 112
Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2005 5:55 am
Location: Oregon, Portland
Top

Postby Loader » Fri Aug 11, 2006 8:27 am

Thanks Jim and Gern. I'll be painting my sides with a marine paint. I think I'll use some aluminum shims. I was planning to trim the door out just like your's is Jim (and many others), no sense in changing now.

For for clearing this up for me guys. :applause:
Earl & Kerry

"Loader"

Blue Yonder Build Thread - viewtopic.php?f=50&t=42611

ImageImage
User avatar
Loader
Platinum Donating Member
 
Posts: 1584
Images: 245
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2005 2:33 pm
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Top


Return to Teardrop Construction Tips & Techniques

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests