Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi,
Hope I didn't miss this info on previous posts. Here goes...Does anyone know the pros and cons of having some space between your sidewalls and the outside of your chassis frame? Should the plywood floor be cut to the same size as the chassis width or should it be wider to give a little clearance to the frame from the vertical sidewalls (assuming you are hiding the frame with overhang)? I suppose the space could be used for trailer wire passages and also to provide some place for air to circulate to allow drainage from road moisture splashing up under the chassis. Does the wood touching the exterior sides of the chassis frame contribute to the overall rigidity of the box and chassis or does the rigidity come from the floor being bolted with gussets (6 in my case), stringers and wall framing? I was wondering if butting the sides up tight to the chassis contributes to eventual rot in the wood sides. Phew! If I understand Grant's process correctly, he leaves a space (I'd ask him but think he's away on vacation). He might also be figuring room for spindles. He suggested 57 1/2 inch wide chassis for a 5 foot wide tear.
Thanks
Kris
p.s. I'm going to hold the world's record for wordiest posts and most questions asked before finishing a teardrop.

I didn't leave a gap but I coated the frame with silicone sealant before I
attached the sides. I hope that will keep the water out.

I might worry that if you had a gap it might fill up with mud and not dry out
for a while.

KA wrote:Hi,
p.s. I'm going to hold the world's record for wordiest posts and most questions asked before finishing a teardrop.

Have you heard of Chris C?

Kris, I think the Generic plans call for just a little gap (1/4").
See Mikes post most of the way down this page.
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=3142

Hi Malcolm,
Thanks for the reply. You make a good point about mud. I hadn't thought about that.
There are sure a lot of things to consider.
Kris

KA,

Just a thought, anything you use to keep water out could potentially keep water in. Some of us have used epoxy to encapsulate the exposed wood on our trailers. I have 1/4" oak ply skin on the outside of mine, with a slight gap, before I put it on I put a couple of coats of epoxy on the backside and the endgrain to keep water from absorbing into it. Lotsa ways to do it, this is just how I did it.

I am with Steve on this.......

Epoxy on the end grain and slightly up the wall before the wall gets attached.
Keep epoxy off any areas that might be glued later if your using Titebond for construction.

I would leave the little gap like the Generic Benroy plans call for.

You can finish the inside of the gap with roofing tar before you assemble it, and then who cares if it gets wet or muddy?

I don't think contact with the chassis is going to add much to the walls. The strength comes from the wood adhesive and the screws between the walls and the subfloor/floor. (I used Titebond III)

I'd probably find a different place to run my wires. I plan on pulling the wires underneath, with wire staples into the 2x2s, or nylon cable ties thru the chassis.

Mike...

Thanks guys. Your info helps a lot. Think I'll go order my axle today.
I'm feeling brave.
Kris