Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

My TTT will be taller than 48" so I will need a seam on the side.
Question.
Is it better for the seam to run verticle or horizontal?



Rob

Rob, a scarfed joint(angled joint) with the down point to the outside and run horizontal would have the most resisitance to leaking...what kinda skin/finish are you planning on...properly made and sealed, almost any joint run in any direction will suffice...
madjack

Rob
I went 5 high and 10 long. I have a seam down the middle and wish I had tried a scarfed seam because the glue made a line with a but joint. Which ever you choose make the seam where you might like trim in case you need it.

If you are sticking with 8 long I would definately do it Mad Jack's way. Also saves on wood because you only need 3 sheets to do both sides instead of 4.

Good luck
Miriam

I made my seam vertical. It's backed up with a 1x3 piece of wood, and screwed in on both sides. I plan on filling the joint with Epoxy putty and sanding it flush. I think it'll be both strong and invisible!

Mike...

it will be strong

Where's Geneva?

And Rob, you're building on the 1100lb. HF trailer, right? The folding one?

Watch your weight!

Rob,

I don't think it matters structurally which way you run it. If you are not skinning with aluminum, almost any joint (scarfs included) will show unless you completely fill the wood grain over the whole side - you may not see a step between the two pieces, but you'll see the big smooth patch where the glue has spread and/or any filler has been added.

So I'd say go for a horizontal seam and plan on adding a small cover strip over the joint - like a belt line on a car. To get the right look, I'd say make the bottom piece 2ft high (so you can cut two from one 4x8). From the looks of your template, you have a natural line running from the knuckle in the front at about 22" off the deck, so that's where I'd put a seam. For the cover strip, 1" wide half-round wood moulding would be ideal, with the ends cut to points.



Andrew

Thanks to all for the responses.
I haven't made a decision yet, but it looks like either vertical or horizontal will work.

Ira, Geneva is North East of Orlando. Thanks for the warning. I beefed up the trailer with additional metal and welded the joints.

Rob

I'm with MadJack on using a scarf joint, the long way, as the best solution. The trick is making a long perfectly mated joint... About the only good way I know of is to use a router with an oversize baseplate with a home-made jig to get something for the router to be supported by on both sides of the joint. Then you can make multiple passes with the router, setting the bit a little deeper each pass till you get your lap down to a thin edge. I usually build my jig so I end up with about a 4" wide lap when I join 1/2" or 3/4" plywood. I use a large "core box bit" to cut mine with. Needless to say, cutting this joint on a table saw is dang hard to do with a big sheet of plywood, but not impossible with the right setup and some helpers... Router is a lot safer.

Good tutorial on making scarf joints here: http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwate ... Index.htm#
(I hate the popup advertising on there now though)

Friend ~ Brick

mikeschn wrote:I made my seam vertical. It's backed up with a 1x3 piece of wood, and screwed in on both sides. I plan on filling the joint with Epoxy putty and sanding it flush. I think it'll be both strong and invisible!

Mike...

Mike are you painting or staining?
Could I talk you into doing that soon so I can copy.
Miriam

Nice Profile! Where have I seen that one before? Oh yeah, Mine! I used 5' panels and ran the seem verticle with a 1 x 4 behind it. I didn't use and angled cut. Body filler cleaned it up. The sides are not 5' tall though.

Miriam C. wrote:

mikeschn wrote:I made my seam vertical. It's backed up with a 1x3 piece of wood, and screwed in on both sides. I plan on filling the joint with Epoxy putty and sanding it flush. I think it'll be both strong and invisible!

Mike...

Mike are you painting or staining?
Could I talk you into doing that soon so I can copy.
Miriam

I am painting for sure... I'm gonna try to make it look like a Coleman tent...

I did some sanding and some more puttying tonight.

I think after I sand tomorrow, it'll be ready for paint.

Yes, I am taking pictures...

Mike...

Sorry for the hijack but:

mikeschn wrote:

Miriam C. wrote:

mikeschn wrote:I made my seam vertical. It's backed up with a 1x3 piece of wood, and screwed in on both sides. I plan on filling the joint with Epoxy putty and sanding it flush. I think it'll be both strong and invisible!

Mike...

Mike are you painting or staining?
Could I talk you into doing that soon so I can copy.
Miriam

I am painting for sure... I'm gonna try to make it look like a Coleman tent...

I did some sanding and some more puttying tonight.

I think after I sand tomorrow, it'll be ready for paint.

Yes, I am taking pictures...

Mike...

I am testing filler. One takes 24 hours before you can stain. Then I will decide on trim or not. I will post some pic.

I can't paint. I like all colors and the decision would just make me nuts.

Aunti M
Now back to the original question.

Mine is painted. I have two vertical seams on each side. I beveled the edges at 45 degrees and made a butt joint over a 3/4" x 3" vertical framing piece with lots of screws and glue. I filled the seam made by the bevels with bondo and sanded smooth. I have no visible seam joints after painting, and am sure not worried about leaks.