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Changing my plans again. Need your advice and help.

Posted:
Sat Aug 12, 2006 7:16 pm
by Darren
Hi all. I was planning on aluminum door trim but the more I think about it I'm wanting to go with wood trim. I made a "prototype" door to see if my ideas would work and have the right clearances, all is good. This is my first woodworking project and I think I've done alright so far, don't want to mess it up at this stage. The plan is to make a 3" wide ring that will mount on the outside of the door and overlap both the side and the door by 1.5". I want the ring to have a radius on both edges so would a router/table be the way to go? What is the proper way to make the ring, buy a huge piece of wood and cut the ring out or glue pieces together and have a lot less waste? How do I keep the ring from warping? And lastly what type of wood and stain/urethane should I use to complement my current color scheme? This is what my trailer is looking like now and I would really appreciate you opinions.


Posted:
Sat Aug 12, 2006 8:08 pm
by Juneaudave
You know...from my experience and from what I think you are trying to do...you probably ought to make a pattern out of some cheap 1/4 inch ply or luan, then use the pattern to cut your trim to match with a router (or other appropriate tool). I would just plan on using well joined pieces as opposed to a built up blank the size of your door.
As far as warping...you shouldn't have any problem....Hope this helps...Juneaudave

Posted:
Sat Aug 12, 2006 8:14 pm
by Darren
Thanks Dave. I've already made a template out of paneling. My thought was to make a basic ring out of 4" wide wood and then trim it to the right size. I think we are on the same page.

Posted:
Sat Aug 12, 2006 8:52 pm
by Juneaudave
Yep...you know it's been awhile since I saw a picture of your build. That ply really has awesome coloring, and your build looks really nice. What kind of material are you running over the top ????

Posted:
Sat Aug 12, 2006 8:57 pm
by doug hodder
Victor...make up a test piece...I think you'll find that 3" wide is going to look a little out of place on the tear...just a hunch...I did mine up in 1 3/4"...you don't want the trim to overpower the look...Doug

Posted:
Sat Aug 12, 2006 9:29 pm
by Darren
The top is covered with marine grade vinyl. It has some UV ratings that make no sence to me at all but I thought I'd take a chance. I did a lot of testing and as long as I get a good seal on the edges it should be water tight. If it fails on me I'll probably just rip it off and then paint or cover with AL.
I know what you're saying Doug. I did a number of drawings in CorelDraw and I thought the 3" was pushing it. I'm smoothing my template out now and I'll see how it looks before I commit to anything. I really chose 3" so the hinges and handle would fit totally within the trim. It would be just as easy to make those areas a little wider and the rest of the trim narrower.
Thanks for the input.

Posted:
Sat Aug 12, 2006 9:48 pm
by Micro469
Victor Star wrote:The top is covered with marine grade vinyl. It has some UV ratings that make no sence to me at all but I thought I'd take a chance. I did a lot of testing and as long as I get a good seal on the edges it should be water tight.
How did you adhere the vinyl to the roof??

Posted:
Sat Aug 12, 2006 10:02 pm
by Darren
After several different tests I wasn't happy with the look so I just stretched the vinyl and stapled it 1/8" from the edges. I tried contact cement, urethane, and PL adhesive but couldn't get it as smooth as I wanted. I'm going to fold the edges back and lay down a bead of silicone to hopefully seal it. If I get any kind of hole in the vinyl I'm sure water will wick it's way in. The top was sealed with a couple of coats of spar urethane so I'm not worried about that.

Posted:
Sat Aug 12, 2006 10:08 pm
by Micro469
Victor Star wrote:After several different tests I wasn't happy with the look so I just stretched the vinyl and stapled it 1/8" from the edges. I tried contact cement, urethane, and PL adhesive but couldn't get it as smooth as I wanted. I'm going to fold the edges back and lay down a bead of silicone to hopefully seal it. If I get any kind of hole in the vinyl I'm sure water will wick it's way in. The top was sealed with a couple of coats of spar urethane so I'm not worried about that.
Somebody (can't remember who) did a vinyl roof with foam under it, like the roofs on some of the cars. That would be a cool look, and also cover any undesirable bumps...


Posted:
Sat Aug 12, 2006 10:50 pm
by Darren
That was Warpony. His roofing came out very nice.
Doug, you are right. The 3" trim will look out of place.
I think I'll try something like this instead. The left one is 1 3/4" with space added for the hinges and handle. The right one is 3".
Thanks,

Posted:
Sun Aug 13, 2006 6:03 pm
by Miriam C.
Victor
Is there any way to finish without interrupting the pattern on your wood? It is so unique I hate to see it gone.
Miriam

Posted:
Mon Aug 14, 2006 8:41 pm
by Darren
Thanks Miriam. I agree but with the window it's going to be pretty broken up anyway. I'm going to give another shot at bending the aluminum angle. That will leave a lot more of the wood exposed. I saw the post about using Tempilstik to judge when it hits the right temp and I think I'll try that.

Posted:
Mon Aug 14, 2006 9:10 pm
by Miriam C.
That's true! Perhaps the dragon will look like she is hiding behind the door.
Looks great anyway.
Miriam