Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi,
I've been reading the posts about glue seeping out on seams when clamped and then having to be sanded or scraped off, and that sometimes dents result. Would it be a good idea if you are doing a woody to put a coat of sealant on before you glue up a seam or would some sealant running down into the areas to be glued cause problems with the glue joint?
Also, if a person planned to coat an exterior surface with marine duck canvas, what type of surface preparation should be considered before glueing the fabric onto the plywood?
Thanks.
Kris
p.s. Hope I didn't miss info about this elsewhere.

I don't think there is a single answer for every glue up. For instance, using carpenters glue (or Titebond), I typically take the time to wipe the excess glue off with a rag dampened with clean warm water right after glue up. That does the trick for me.

For epoxy joints, I scrape off the excess as good as I can, then wipe down good with mineral spirits or a thinner. Again, I would rather clean it up before it hardens.

I normally don't use Gorilla Glue or similar products...

Kris...if it were me..and you were doing a butt joint on the exterior wood and it were going to be a woody...I would seal the edges of the joint with something like lacquer, don't get it onto the exposed surface...this will prevent any stain/or dye from wicking into that edge and making it darker...for the glues...well it's a toss up....I don't care what they say about stainable...chances are it won't match up like you want...just don't go overboard on the adhesieve and have it squish out into the seam...don't use just a clamp...put a board/block etc...to spread the footprint out on the clamp...and don't overclamp...if you squeeze out all the glue then you are defeating the purpose of it...and if you are going to clamp/or weight it right over the seam, lay some wax paper over it prior to clamping/weighting with a wood block...you won't end up gluing the block to the wood..and number 1, try to place your seam like at the door, or somewhere else that is less noticeable so you only end up with a vertical over and under the door...not as pronounced, but it can always be covered with a contrasting wood covering as in a typical woody...and for glue squeeze out...you're probably better off using a good scraper rather than sand paper...just my idea, I'm sure there are other opinions...Doug

Thanks Doug and Dave,
Those are great tips. Sounds like experience speaking. Thanks for sharing.
Kris

I use a heat gun and putty knife or scraper to remove excess dried adhesive. It works both for two part glues and standard wood glue. HF has an inexpensive heat gun.

Kris,
If you are using a butt joint and a piece of ply under to reinforce, I would put the pieces together with the reinforcer on the bottom. You will need to add other pieces of ply so the whole thing stays level. This way you can romove any excess that tries to get to the outside.

I think if you put glue on the edge that expands you will get a line.

My dents were because I left it face down after the glue dried while I glued the frame down. Had it weighted heavy to get the frame to stick.

The problem with waiting till after the glue dries is you will remove a thin layer of wood with the glue, or you wil have residue.

Miriam

Thanks Miriam,

It helps a lot to hear what everyone is doing at each step of the way. I really appreciate the shared information.
Kris

i think it's always easier to seal and sand flat panels. sealer can be left off the area where joinery will be taking place. raised grain [from any initial painting process] will be easier to sand down when the sheets are in their flat stage. and as an added bonus, the remaining sealed sheets will have less tendency to absorb moisture.

Kris
I have never applied canvas but I would definately make a sample board.

Miriam

Hi Jay and Miriam,
Those are great ideas. Thanks.
Kris