Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Now that winter is around the corner... Id like to know if its safe... to put down the Hardwood flooring Ive had stored in their packages .... I intend to float the flooring with floor moulding around the edges.. also there is a thin padding that goes under..or would it be better to install in the spring?


Will installing it within the next week cause problems in the cold weather?
or once its starts to drop down to our 1st frost...

Classic Finn

With the floating hardwood or Pergo type floor you need to leave an expansion joint all the way around the floor. They recommend a 3/8" joint all the way around minimum. Being as small of a space the I would say you can get away with 3/16" and then caulk the joint with flexable caulk.

If you put you wood bundles in the trailer for 24 hours you can install it at any temp.

So in otherwards dont butt up the flooring all the way to the sides....right?

Okidoki... I thought not to seal the flooring down at all except with the side mouldings but I suppose the silicone wont do any harm...This flooring has self locking joints .. you put them together by sliding the boards in at an angle then setting it down.. so no glue or nails required.

Here is the company website in english if you like to see..

http://www.kareliafloors.com/installation/overview.htm


Thank You

Classic Finn

Heikki....I put a full floating floor in my first tear it it was stored in an unheated garage all winter...no problems...I think aclimating the flooring to the room prior to install is more critical with a glue joint type flooring, but on a snap lock system it may not be as big of an issue...and besides...you don't have that much square footage...and yes...don't make the flooring fit tight to the sides...I left like 1/8" all around..trimmed it out with a 1/4" mohogany base shoe on top... with largerer square footage you should leave more expansion area...Doug

doug hodder wrote:Heikki....I put a full floating floor in my first tear it it was stored in an unheated garage all winter...no problems...I think aclimating the flooring to the room prior to install is more critical with a glue joint type flooring, but on a snap lock system it may not be as big of an issue...and besides...you don't have that much square footage...Doug

Hi Doug, Nice to here from you Yes indeed its a snap lock system..
I was just worried if it would get ruined.. but ok ... I feel better about it now too that youve done it....

Thanks
Classic Finn

Classic Finn wrote:So in otherwards dont butt up the flooring all the way to the sides....right?

Yep, you got it.

The only reason to caulk it is to keep dirt & dust getting under the floor or if you spill water inside it stays on top

Caulk would also keep the floor from "floating" to one side when driving causing the gap to show from under your trim.

Caulk could also cause the flooring to buckle when it expands, it needs room to move. I'd use a molding that will cover a little more than twice the width of the space you leave at the edge and you shouldn't have any problems with it coming loose.

I just looked at the manufacturers website and it seems this flooring can be glued down, that may be your best bet to keep the stuff stable and you won't have to worry about it moving around too much or debris getting under it.

I have installed a lot of "Pergo" type floating floors. Even here in humid Florida the stuff doesn't expand very much. Nearly all that is being sold now is a thin veneeer of hardwood bonded to a medium density fiber board backer (MDF). MDF does not expand or move much at all (unless it gets wet, and then it must stay wet a while to hurt it). Even in a 20 x 30 foot room I only leave a 1/4 inch total on the sides. You don't have to leave any space at the ends of the boards... Wood doesn't get longer! It only moves across the grain. In a little teardrop a 1/8" on the sides would be plenty of expansion room.

Hope this helps... Brick