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Generic Benroy and Sandwiched Walls...

PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 5:07 pm
by cablerunners
Hi,

I would like my TD to have a queen sized mattress. (Which I understand is 60" wide by 80" long)

I'm going to build the Generic Benroy but with sandwiched walls.

So my questions is... what is the best size of lumber to build the Sandwich (Outter, Bracing, and Interior)? Seems it should be an ideal side for ordering door trim and hardware.

:thinking:

I'm wondering because I may be able to order the trailer frame a bit over the 60" standard for a 5x8.

Ideally, I would like the queen mattress to fit snugly.

Thanks,
-phil

PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 6:00 pm
by Bodyman
Ideally, I would like the queen mattress to fit snugly.


Leave a little room to make the bed (tuck the covers)

Re: Generic Benroy and Sandwiched Walls...

PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 6:33 pm
by toypusher
cablerunners wrote:Hi,

I would like my TD to have a queen sized mattress. (Which I understand is 60" wide by 80" long)

I'm going to build the Generic Benroy but with sandwiched walls.

So my questions is... what is the best size of lumber to build the Sandwich (Outter, Bracing, and Interior)? Seems it should be an ideal side for ordering door trim and hardware.

:thinking:

I'm wondering because I may be able to order the trailer frame a bit over the 60" standard for a 5x8.

Ideally, I would like the queen mattress to fit snugly.

Thanks,
-phil


Phil,

You should be able to use 1/4" outer skin and 1/8" inner skin with 3/4" framing and insulation to construct the sidewalls. Steve Frederick is the one to really answer this. Also, you can order custom foam and make it just a tad smaller than standard queen and still have the same basic size. I think that there is a thread around here about the memory foam mattresses from Wal-Mart also.

Re: Generic Benroy and Sandwiched Walls...

PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 7:27 pm
by halfdome, Danny
cablerunners wrote:Hi,
I'm wondering because I may be able to order the trailer frame a bit over the 60" standard for a 5x8.

Ideally, I would like the queen mattress to fit snugly.

Thanks,
-phil


Cableguy, may I sugguest that you make a full size layout of your chassis, walls, & sleeping area before you order that trailer frame. You'll need clearance between walls and wheels. :) Danny
:banana: Post # 700 :banana:

PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 1:05 am
by bledsoe3
Phil, What Kerry said is just right. I over built mine. Here's a picture of mine prior to skining the interior of mine.
Image
1" X 3" around the perimeter and doors. Also where the cabinets mount. 3/4" foam insulation and then I covered it with 1/8" luan.
I'll send you a PM.

PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 8:40 am
by Arne
Bledsoe3, did you glue the ply to the insulation? If so, what did you use?

PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 11:07 am
by Maniac H3
I use PT 2X4 grid for sub-floor with plywood flooring and have the 1X3's about 2 inch from the botten of the plywood wall creating a (lip) to set the wall on the floor base. similar to above....

used a 4X8 HF trailer and added 1 foot to the axle

I just wedged in my insulation


Maniac

PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 1:23 pm
by Arne
What did you use to widen your axle? I used some square tubing, but ran out so will need another idea for #2....

PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 2:34 pm
by asianflava
I used a variety of 1X wood for the framing they were perfect with the 3/4in insulation. Don't use furring strips as they are thinner than 3/4in. I'd also recommend using some type of hardwood where the door hinge goes, I used poplar.

Image

PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 11:41 pm
by bledsoe3
Arne wrote:Bledsoe3, did you glue the ply to the insulation? If so, what did you use?

Arne, I did use glue on the insulation (tite bond II). When I applied the skin, I clamped all edges and used weights over the entire area.

PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2006 10:47 pm
by cablerunners
Thanks All,

It makes sense to use the 1/4 outer 3/4 bracing and 1/8 inner shell.

Your pictures help quite a bit!

-phil

PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 6:25 pm
by SaGR
For the insulated models (sandwich), did you cut the outside skin first and then layout the framing?

It looks like asianflava did the frame first (but it's probably just not applied in his pic).

PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 8:09 pm
by asianflava
I made a template and cut all the pieces (skins and frame) using that. I suppose you could make the frame on the template and cut the skins to the frame.

PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 8:24 pm
by bledsoe3
I cut the skin to the profile first. Then I glued the framing to the skin with extra hanging over the edges. After the glue was dry I used a router to trim the framing to the skin. Instead of weighing the framing to the skin I used screws to hold it tightly in place. I removed the screws after the glue was dry.

PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 9:10 pm
by SaGR
I'm thinking skin first too. It just seems there's less margin for error that way.

Thanks guys!