Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Posted: **Thu Sep 28, 2006 9:29 pm**

Well now my total lack of experience is gonna show. These books don't show cabinets like I have seen here and they are way overdone. SOOOOO

1. How much framing do I need to manage this hoped for end product.
2. And should I still do the stick framing for the galley wall? :NC

3. How deep should I make the upper cabinets?
4. How do I attach the cabinets to the framing and have them not rattle off going down the road.

The counter is 20" deep.
My picture leaves a bit to be desired. Hope it is not too confusing. :oops:

Any advice is greatfully appreciated.

Posted: **Thu Sep 28, 2006 10:31 pm**

Miriam, First it is advisable to decide what kind of hinge you desire. My galley cabinets are frame less and my cabin are face frame cabinets. In the cabin I wanted the more polished traditional look so I went with 3" stiles to clear the light switches on each wall and it looks nice. In the galley I was challenged for space so I went frame less but I was able to use the same hinges for both types of cabinets. I used a brass mortise less flush hinge that has a very nice finial from Rockler. When laying out your galley consider the counter height from level ground. My upper counter is 42" which is bar height. My lower pull out counters are 36" from level ground just like in your kitchen at home. I also laid out the components to create a small working triangle just like many home kitchens are designed like. I would lay out your galley full size with cabinet members included as your components only leave 1/2" for cabinet ends and dividers. You'll need them to hang your doors on. You will be more comfortable with a well laid out galley.

Danny

Posted: **Thu Sep 28, 2006 11:00 pm**

How deep should I make the upper cabinets?

Make a full sized layout of the galley wall. That layout is a piece of 1/2" particle board just sitting in my galley, it is not affixed.

4. How do I attach the cabinets to the framing and have them not rattle off going down the road.

Pocket screws work great if you make face frame cabinets. You can make your cabinets on the bench and squeze them in between walls or build them in place. I prefer to build them on the bench.

Danny

Posted: **Thu Sep 28, 2006 11:36 pm**

Great picture Danny. Thank you. That will fix how to design my upper cabinets. And get the depth right.

The counter is as low as it can go and still get a cooler in. It is tall for me but I can use a table for most things. Ends up at 41".

My wall is flat on the cabin side and originally I had planned to frame all in with 1 x 2s but it sounds flimsy now. I have 1/4" birch to face one side of the wall but don't know how thick I need the on galley side to be sturdy enough to hold the top cabinets nor how to attach them.

Did you just frame out (like a skeleton) or did you frame out of plywood, (boxes) and how thick.

Hinges! I can see I left out some planning. For now I am making plywood
doors. I don't have a router and no money to buy one. Later for the fancy stuff.

I promised myself only a couple of questions a day so I better quit asking.

Thank you very much.

Posted: **Fri Sep 29, 2006 9:40 am**

Miriam C. wrote:Great picture Danny. Thank you. That will fix how to design my upper cabinets. And get the depth right.

The counter is as low as it can go and still get a cooler in. It is tall for me but I can use a table for most things. Ends up at 41".

Do you really need to put the cooler in the galley? When we travel it's inconvenient to go to the galley for a cold drink when it can be carried in the tow vehicle. To me it is very important to have a comfortable working height for the counter top.

My wall is flat on the cabin side and originally I had planned to frame all in with 1 x 2s but it sounds flimsy now. I have 1/4" birch to face one side of the wall but don't know how thick I need the on galley side to be sturdy enough to hold the top cabinets nor how to attach them.

You can cleat your frames if you are planing on face frames. With your measurements it looks like frame less would be the way to go with some type of butt hinge like I mentioned before or spend more $$ on cup hinges ( European) but they are more difficult to install and take up some room in width.
Did you just frame out (like a skeleton) or did you frame out of plywood, (boxes) and how thick.

My galley cabinets were constructed from 3/4" maple veneered plywood (ends & rails & no backs) and the raw plywood edge was banded with 1/4" x 3/4" solid wood to match my door wood. You can easily do the banding by cutting the strips a little wider and glue and hold in place with masking tape every inch or so then sand flush. You could do this to your doors too.

Hinges! I can see I left out some planning. For now I am making plywood
doors. I don't have a router and no money to buy one. Later for the fancy stuff.
These are the hinges I used, no mortise required.

Here is another easy hinge to use and takes up very little space. Danny

I promised myself only a couple of questions a day so I better quit asking.
Thank you very much.

[/img]

Posted: **Fri Sep 29, 2006 3:31 pm**

Thank you Danny,
I hope I understand cause I'm on it this weekend.

Do you really need to put the cooler in the galley? When we travel it's inconvenient to go to the galley for a cold drink when it can be carried in the tow vehicle. To me it is very important to have a comfortable working height for the counter top.

Everything I need in the galley is 17" to 18" tall. The galley is 6 feet wide and 4' 6" tall (Useable). I really need the extra weight in the galley. I made it all too light and with the bed up front the galley is way too light.

The floor of the trailer is 21 inches off the ground. The counter is as low as I can get away with and only allows for side mount slide outs.

The back wall---Anyone know how thick it needs to be to support the weight with the TV in it's box?

The first hings is great. Is that the kind where the door fits inside the frame?

Posted: **Fri Sep 29, 2006 7:31 pm**

Miriam C. wrote:Thank you Danny,
I hope I understand cause I'm on it this weekend.

Do you really need to put the cooler in the galley? When we travel it's inconvenient to go to the galley for a cold drink when it can be carried in the tow vehicle. To me it is very important to have a comfortable working height for the counter top.

Everything I need in the galley is 17" to 18" tall. The galley is 6 feet wide and 4' 6" tall (Useable). I really need the extra weight in the galley. I made it all too light and with the bed up front the galley is way too light.

The floor of the trailer is 21 inches off the ground. The counter is as low as I can get away with and only allows for side mount slide outs.

The back wall---Anyone know how thick it needs to be to support the weight with the TV in it's box?
My back wall is 3/4" thick Red Oak plywood with plam on the galley side. when I made my walls I made a 3/4" slot to receive that wall. I just pocket screwed it to the floor where it won't show. I did it the same with the headboard face frame. It gives the tear some integral strength. Danny

The first hings is great. Is that the kind where the door fits inside the frame?

Posted: **Fri Sep 29, 2006 7:50 pm**

M ... You know me .... Do you really need all that cabinetry ???? are ya' gonna' Live in the TD ??? Are ya' takin' it to the Home show ??? I put a simple shelf and some hooks in mine and I can carry everything I own (well almost ).. Don't get me wrong ... these guys (and ladies) do BEAUTIFUL work , and their TD 's are GEORGEOUS , But a little too much for my practical tastes... All in what you need !!!!

Plus ... More Cabinets = more HEAVY ... less camping gear, and food/spirits

Crumbs for thought !!!! :thinking:

Posted: **Fri Sep 29, 2006 8:09 pm**

G
I am inclined to agree with you somedays. I need the weight. The back 1/2 of my baby is way too light. I can fill it with stuff I don't need or I can learn a new skill. :thinking:

Course I could fill it with iron Dutch Ovens but they would fall all over the place and someone would want me to cook and clean.

I have to come to the conclusion I need the hatch first so I can still stand on the trailer to get to the hinge. By that time I will understand all the complexities or buy iron.

Am I gonna live in it. :worship:

Ya never know. Fishing season needn't end don'tcha know.

Posted: **Mon Oct 02, 2006 7:30 am**

M ... a brick patio may be NICE !!!!

It may seem light at the moment , but when you stuff it with all the things you think you're gonna' need , it may be quite a different story .... My Biggie Bugout was very noseheavy ( rearward axle location ) , but I stuffed the back with all the thing on "her worships " list and then it was no problem ... and that didn't even count her shoes and cosmetics .... I'll have to build another trailer just for that.... hers!!!
Iron pots/DO??? ... hooks and bungees hold all from rattling around..

Saw a show on the old Chuck wagons .... neat way to layout a galley ...Pass the salt pork and hard tack .... Mmmmmmm...Water barrel on the outside...bucket for sink ...Practical !!! :roll:

Posted: **Mon Oct 02, 2006 10:39 am**

GP
You guys crack me up. This one doesn't wear makeup or shoes. I have packed it with everything I could possible want just to be sure. My needs are simple and have fit them in my Nissan Sentra trunk.

Already have a sink. Got it at Colaws in a gullible moment. A real, though small sink, stainless and rimless, $20.

If the weight of the wood is any clue the hatch should make up for 2 beds. :phew:

Posted: **Tue Oct 03, 2006 8:33 am**

Ah !!! A barefoot "natural" beauty , eh ??? Some people have it .... the rest of us don't and have to build extra trailers ...??? :lol:

Posted: **Tue Oct 03, 2006 4:40 pm**

Uh huh. Woke up one morning and decided I looked like me with or without it.

Boy, that the lousiest excuse to make a second tear I have ever heard. :lol:

Think I could borrow it?

Posted: **Tue Oct 03, 2006 8:45 pm**

Miriam... If you don't want to bother with building cabinets... You can get some really nice cabinets at Lowe's that are all plywood with oak fronts. They come knocked-down in flat boxes and are very good quality. They are not expensive... I can't build them for what they cost! I have installed a bunch of kitchens with them.

(a pair of 30" wall cabinets would prolly fit your tear very nicely)

More pix here: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v246/ ... Jobs/?sc=3

Posted: **Tue Oct 03, 2006 9:55 pm**

Those are nice!! I will check but somehow I feel sure I can't afford oak front in my TTT.

But maybe save for em if they aren't too heavy to pick up.

) Thanks Brick.

Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Desperatly seeking cabinet advice

Desperatly seeking cabinet advice

Re: Desperatly seeking cabinet advice

Re: Desperatly seeking cabinet advice