Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi folks,

As the time to skin hatch and attach hinges etc approaches I need to get a handle on closing hatch. I am leaning to draw latches (lockable) to get a good tight seal.

I would appreciate advice on 1) some good draw latches and 2) how to attach to the hatch so that the hatch isn't overly 'stressed' or beat up from the pull of the latches 3) I would also appreciate advice on selections of handles etc for lifting/latching the hatch at the bottom...

Thanks very much,

Jim

Jim,
I think you'll get a lot of responses here................

I decided to go with a Austin Hardware draw pull keyed in pairs. I haven't installed them yet but feel they are going to work great, tighten in my hatch just enough and I only have to use one key. I can wrap it around the side wall to the hatch and use it at 90 degrees.

If you go with something keyed make sure you tell the salesperson you want them "keyed in pairs".

Product Number: AH RN232000-01 ZNPR


Barb

b.bodemer wrote:Jim,
I think you'll get a lot of responses here................

I decided to go with a Austin Hardware draw pull keyed in pairs. I haven't installed them yet but feel they are going to work great, tighten in my hatch just enough and I only have to use one key. I can wrap it around the side wall to the hatch and use it at 90 degrees.

If you go with something keyed make sure you tell the salesperson you want them "keyed in pairs".

Product Number: AH RN232000-01 ZNPR


Barb

Austin Hardware has lots of different latches but these in the photo shouldn't be used for security purposes since all it would take is the removal of two screws to get in. I went with latches without locks. Danny

b.bodemer wrote:I decided to go with a Austin Hardware draw pull keyed in pairs. I haven't installed them yet but feel they are going to work great, tighten in my hatch just enough and I only have to use one key. I can wrap it around the side wall to the hatch and use it at 90 degrees.

Product Number: AH RN232000-01 ZNPR

Just trying to figure how you would bend it around the hatch. Which half would go on the hatch and which on the side wall. I'm haveing a brain freeze.
Danny brings up a good point about the screws but I think that could be remidied so you couldn't access the screws.

halfdome, Danny wrote:Austin Hardware has lots of different latches but these in the photo shouldn't be used for security purposes since all it would take is the removal of two screws to get in. I went with latches without locks. Danny

If you can get at the back side of the screws, and use machine screws with nylock nuts, it would be very hard for someone to get the screws out. Of course all it would take is a small pair of bolt cutters, if someone was determined to open them.

You can also use screws with a square or hex hole. Not everyone runs around with a full set of screwdrivers.

Danny


Austin Hardware has lots of different latches but these in the photo shouldn't be used for security purposes since all it would take is the removal of two screws to get in. I went with latches without locks. Danny

I used the same latches. You can very easily make them more secure by using screws with "one way heads".




I was able to attach mine to the 1/8" aluminum trim on my hatch with pop rivets.

Endo wrote:

Danny


Austin Hardware has lots of different latches but these in the photo shouldn't be used for security purposes since all it would take is the removal of two screws to get in. I went with latches without locks. Danny

I used the same latches. You can very easily make them more secure by using screws with "one way heads".




I was able to attach mine to the 1/8" aluminum trim on my hatch with pop rivets.

That screw would be more secure but the handle in the center of the hatch should be your best spot for security. Mine has a large strike plate hidden from the exterior. From what I've understood the purpose of the side latches is to pull down the hatch outer edges to keep out rain while driving. Anyway that is the reason I used them Danny

When I installed mine, I marked the latch at it's max and min extension. Then, I out the screw in between the 2. Don't know if that is the right way to do it but it works for me.

I put a piece of T-molding on the bottom ledge of the hatch. Initially it was to hold down the aluminum until I found a better solution. I kept it there because it did 2 things for me.
1) it provides a nice grip area to open and close the hatch
2) it is like a water brake for water the runs down the back of the hatch. The water will run off it instead of running into the bottom of the hatch.

Yes...........I'll be able to get to the back and use a nut and make it more secure.

The latches main purpose is to draw the hatch a little tighter and having an extra lock is ok too.

Barb

Barb and everyone,

Wow, there seems to be a good consensus about the Austin latches, with one concern about security. I could do the bolt and nylock thing...or the one way screw--Endo, where do you get those, I have never heard of them before--but then that's nothing new!

I am not completely indifferent to the security issue simply because of the electrical stuff in the galley--the battery and the converter etc...

I realize that the determined thief can overcome this latch, but then they could overcome just about anything I put on there--its only 1/4 inch ply with some spars and ribs! At some point you simply have to refuse to become paranoid. But then I am reminded of the old saying, 'Just because you're paranoid does not mean people AREN'T out to get you

Jim

http://www.spaenaur.com/view_pdf.asp?Page=L25

#D-2001 is a right angle clamp

They have several different types (lockable) pages L20-L33.......

I know I've seen some more lockable right angle ones, with a concealed hinge.





McMaster-Carr page 2826/2827


You have to be careful if you plan on using the tamper proof screws, "if" you ever need to replace/fix the latch you'll need to drill out the screw.....

Ken A Hood wrote:You have to be careful if you plan on using the tamper proof screws, "if" you ever need to replace/fix the latch you'll need to drill out the screw.....

Nothing so drastic - 30 seconds with a cut-off disc in a dremel tool and you have a slot for a flat head screwdriver. Also works great for those phillips screws that you drove with the cordless drill and spun the bit till the phillips is more like a crater.

I hate when that happens.

These are the latches that I used. It takes a padlock, even if it is a small one. All but two screws are behind the latch.


They are adjustable so you can fine tune the pressure after mounting. I set to the middle of the adjustment and mounted them.

I am using a grab handle that I bought at a cargo trailer shop.


As mentioned above nothing is completely secure. If someone wants into something they are going to get in.

I had not thought about this kind of latch.

My biggest concern is not water, but dust. The back of a trailer can pick up a lot of the stuff.

Thanks for bringing up the subject! This may be the answer.

dave