Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I'm to the point that I am going to start the trolley top on the Rocketear...what I want to know is how some of you installed the top portion without compromising the strength? here's my thoughts....

1. install the trailer sides and put in all the crossmembers, glued and screwed.

2. back up all the cross members, on the underneath side with a piece of material that isn't glued, in the trolley top area, but is screwed only to the cross members to give it strength and hold the profile.

3. cut out the center portion of the glued members, for the trolley top leaving the back up members for support.

4. cut the side profile of the trolley top and install it so that it attaches to the butt end of the original cross members.

5. install crossmembers into the top of the trolley top.

the reason I'm thinking of doing it this way is that I can secure the profile I want and still install the top while keeping the original curve to the front and top of the trailer...I'm afraid that if I cut the centers out to install the trolley top, I may lose some of the original lines, and I don't want to put that much bondo into it.

I ask this as some people have done trolley tops...Craigs nephew, but I'm putting on a 6" lift on the top with either portholes or capsule windows in it, not a real low profile thing. Craigs nephew is doing a retractable sunroof type thing, and I don't think it has the same lift I'm thinking about...any help? Craig? Doug

Here's a pic of Craig's nephew's trolley top. Doesn't look like a "retractable sunroof type thing" to me. Maybe I missed something. I wasn't feeling all that good while I was there.


Can you see it?

Gage....maybe I'm wrong...but I thought in some of his earlier posts it was mentioned that it was going to be retractable...I just checked...according to his web site, it was to be a rag top....Doug

Doug, could you build the sides of the trolley top as trusses that run front to back, tying into bulkheads, front and back. Tie the two trolley side together with spars and run necessary framing between trailer sides and trolley top...nowhatimean!!!
madjack

Doug,

I have not built one but here is my thoughts on it.

1. your trolley top has to have the same curve as the tailer so you can build a frame matching that curve.
2.make your cross members from 3 pieces where the middle piece is screwed to the bottom of the end pieces, the gap between the end pieces should be the width of the trolley top,, this should give structural integrity and keep the profile and also give you a ledge to set the trolley frame on so that you easily glue and screw it into the ends of the cross members

Hope this helps

thanks for the input guys...it'll probably be a cross of all of our ideas, just not many of these out there that I can check out and I don't want to get going on it and have the top start sagging before I get it skinned...Doug

Doug, I'm making a reception desk and just happen to have made two similar sub-assemblies that would work for the spar area and a third for your Trolley Top. All you would need to do is glue & screw all three together and attach to the side walls:) Danny


I’ve updated the picture with a center portion even though the proportions are way off and so is the radius. I’m glad I saw this post since I’ve been pondering the idea of a raised center portion to avoid making obvious seams in a 5' wide tear.I don’t want to use 103" wide aluminum again. I could use the raised portion for my wire raceway and some indirect lighting. Also to have somewhat of a appearance of this 1947 Silverside. Danny

You can't fool us with the "reception desk" story. Your trying to beat Doug to a Trolly Top! You have all 3 peices sitting there. Where are the sides and the floor? I know they are there somewhere.

Gerdo wrote:You can't fool us with the "reception desk" story. Your trying to beat Doug to a Trolly Top! You have all 3 peices sitting there. Where are the sides and the floor? I know they are there somewhere.

Don't I wish I was that far along. Danny

Here it is if it was partially skinned with plywood. Danny

Doug, I don't know if these links will be of much help, hope you can atleast get some ideas from them.



Click for Trolley Car
Clicky, a link just for Ira's enjoyment

Danny...that's kind of what I'm thinking of doing, but I can't afford the extra weight of doubling up on the long stringers in the center portion, I'm thinking like 1/2" max on the sides of the raised portion...I've got to get the weight down on this one if I want the Rambler to tow it. I think I've really gained a lot of "lightness" in this one as I gained that in the frame. I really appreciate all the responses as they have given me some different ideas on just how to do it...I also need to think about how to insulate the top without losing a lot of height to it and cutting down on the portholes in the sides of the top...I think it is going to have to be insulated as that is the highest point on the tear and I don't want it "raining" on me in cooler temps...maybe only 3/4" or less foam up there, I have done 1.5" on the last couple tears. I think this type top will really provide a lot of opportunities to do some fun stuff, and learn a lot, especially how to trim out the interior of it so that it looks respectable... and Kevin...thanks for the pics...they back up what I was thinking. Doug

PS...Danny...your shop is way too organized and tidy, but then I wish I were.

Danny...I'm thinking I have a sheet of 1/4" marine mohogany left over from a boat sitting in the other garage...I just need to dig through it all and find it. laminate it into 1/2" and it will work well for the installation of the windows as I can get rubber molding to hold the glass with a 1/4" groove to install into the ply. Doug