My first teardrop attempt

[tograssroots]

My plan is to have a teardrop base 5X7 & walls 4X8 all done in exterior ply
3/4" walls
1/2" floor & shelves
1/8" ceiling with 1"X2" beams spaced at every 8"
No insulation & install a hatch
My partner is going to build a galvanised trailer for me
When I start I will try to post some pictures
I would like it as easy as possible to build & be lightweight
If anyone has different ideas of how I can improve it please let me know

[Roly Nelson]

Tograssroots, I guess I am the wrong person to advise you on a simple build, but I can suggest that you use thinner material if you are wanting to make it lightweight. I feel that 3/4" side walls are way too thick, and many tear builders may disagree. I built my woody with 1/4" side walls, 3/8" floor and two layers of 1/8" on the roof. All cabinets and doors are built with 1/4" plywood and for the last four years it has held up great. It is light enough that I can lift one wheel off of the ground using muscles given to me 74 years ago.

If you are really interested in a super-light tear, I could tell you about my shorter one that is built on a hollowcore 1 3/8" door. One wheel can be lifted with only one hand on that one. Good luck on your build, Mate, and perhaps you can get in touch with other builders down there in OZ. Check the archives and read their posts.

Roly, the li'l ol' retired woody tear designer, builder and user, (hopefully for another 25 years or so)

[tograssroots]

Thanks for the feedback
The reason I went for the 3/4" walls rather than the 1/2" walls is I
read if I am going to make my own door it is more likely to warp
I planned to have only one layer of ply instead of making a inner and
outer wall, ceiling, floor.

[PaulC]

Hi TGT, have a look at this: http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/t ... tear32.htm

This is a design Andrew has done for a lightweight trailer for small vehicles.

Mike was doing a lightweight that is listed here somewhere too.
Cheers
Paul

PS By the way, have I mentioned that a name would be nice to use

[toypusher]

Thanks for the feedback
The reason I went for the 3/4" walls rather than the 1/2" walls is I
read if I am going to make my own door it is more likely to warp
I planned to have only one layer of ply instead of making a inner and
outer wall, ceiling, floor.

You might want to check the weight of solid 3/4" against using a 1/4" outside, 3/4" framing (with insulation), then a 1/8" interior construction wall. Besides, a sandwich construction door is less likely to be warped.

[tograssroots]

I think I put everyone on the wrong tangent, I wanted the simplicity of the teardrop to be more important than the weight.
I have never constructed anything before so I wanted to keep it as
simple as possible. (K.I.S.S. PRINCIPLE)

For this reason I understand using 3/4 inch sides I don't need to use any strengthening frames.
I can screw into the end grain of roof ribs through 3/4walls directly through the side, eliminating the need for framework allowing for a solid 3/4 inch door.
I can screw the 1/8 ceiling straight down to the 3/4 inch walls and roof ribs.
I intend to use liquid nails to add to the strength.
The design of Andrews is great as I don't have any woodworking skills.
Thanks Paul
making it with framing will be more complicated won't it?
I will not be putting aluminium on the outside.
I'll just paint it.

Gwen

[tograssroots]

I intend to put 2" fibreglass tape around all joins, wall, roof etc
for waterproofing.

[Peter Chilman]

Hi Gwen , another Queenslander here, I built mine much the same way as you are thinking , I reckon go half inch at the most on the walls , and if you're worried about the door warping ,just make that out of three quarter ply or put a frame around it, my door is just a piece of 1.6 mm aluminium with a frame of 19 mm wood to hold the door handle and the weather stripping on .you will be surprised at how strong and rigid the cabin will be once the galley wall is in and the roof goes on . those three quarter ply walls are going to be heavy ,and they only have to be there to hold the roof up.
Where abouts in Queensland are you from? Isn't it weird jumpin on this site and reading about everybody being snowed in for the winter?
hope you have a great time with the build .
Cheers ,Peter

[Miriam C.]

Gwen,
Go for it girl. The 3/4 sides will be heavy but they will allow you to rout (if you can) a groove for the ribs and ceiling to set in. You could do the same with 1/2. The key is to be sure how you are putting it together and mark it well. See Steve F.'s inside out builds.

If you decide to frame this is a good place to start.
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=8908
I copied a bunch from Phil.

You will learn a lot about woodworking as you go. Just take rolecall and make sure you are present before class begins.

Good luck and ask lots of questions, and take lots of pictures---cause

[Niall]

Hi Gwen,

We here in Aus ( i'm in melb ) are lucky enough to be able to purchase MDF. I've heard / read all the info telling me marine ply and what size, but after a few discussions with boat builders and cabinet makers MDF ( sealed with epoxy and finished in marine coat ) is what i'm using. 15mm outter+13mm sandwich + 4mm ply inner. You can get MDF in larger sizes and get the veneer of your choice.

My floor will be ply, cuz its simple.

Goodluck with your build.

Niall.

[PaulC]

Gwen, Check your PM (Private messages).
Cheers
Paul

Thanks very much for putting your name up.
Now I have to convince you to put a personal picture up as your avatar

[tograssroots]

Hi Guys

[b]Peter wrote

Where abouts in Queensland are you from?

I live in Rockhampton

You've convinced me to go the 1/2"
I'm sure I won't regret losing all that weight
Going out to get my ply
Hopefully, soon I will have some photos

Thanks Gwen