Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I am designing a 5'x8' tear and would like some estimates on what other builders think the chassis might cost to have it built by a professional welder. The chassis would be 2"x2" square tube in a basic square frame with 3 inner crossmembers and a straight 2 1/2"x2 1/2" drawbar. It will have a torsion axle welded to the frame 36" from the rear. It will also have 2" square plates welded into all the corners between crossmembers and side rails for bolting the subfloor through (so thats 10 plates in all). To save money I will source and install the parts for the axle, hitch, wiring, chains, leveling and tongue jacks.

Here are some specific questions I have about the design:
How much would you estimate it to cost to have this welded together? (materials and labor)

is 2"x2" square tube ok for this kind of trailer? should it be bigger?

Should I make the frame 4’10" wide so that once the side-walls are on its final dimension is 5’ wide? This would allow 5’ pieces of ply and aluminum to lay on the side-walls instead of between them for the roof and hatch.

How much space is needed between the side-wall and the axle hub? Where do I buy the axles from?

How do I attach the fenders?

Anything else I should know (or the welder should know) before proceeding?

Thanks all,
Dave

For your chassis and chassis cost questions, read this...

http://www.mikenchell.com/weekender/chassis.html

As for the width of the trailer...

If you make it 5' wide, you could set the trailer on top of the frame and let the frame show...

or

You could put the walls outside the frame, and cut your plywood and/or aluminum 62" long to cover the roof. It would give you a full queen sized width inside.

or

Make it 58" wide like you said, and use standard 5' wide aluminum to cover it. But your bed will be slightly narrower.

It's a matter of personal choice. My trailer happens to be 5' wide, and I plan on rotating the plywood 90* and cutting it off at 62" to cover it. But then I also plan on using Uniflex 255 paint instead of aluminum.

http://www.mikenchell.com/weekender/skinning.html

Mike...

Thanks mike, I actually meant to mention that I have been using your page as my main reference right now. Great info. Do you remember how the welder came up with his estimate? Did it include cutting to size or did you have to pre-cut your metal? I know very little about metal fab so I am going to be relying on my welder to do it right.

I also forgot to mention that I am in the SF Bay Area if that makes a difference on cost estimates (makes everything else more expensive).

The estimate included the cost of the material, cutting to size, and welding it. He also received the material in from Southwest Wheel and assembled the axle for me, and welded it up also.

Basically all I did was bring my wheels when it was time to pick it up!

Mike...

Ok here we go. I've got 140.00 in this so far and that is not counting the axles. That will be another 140.00

He's the new chassis Idea I'll be using on my next tear.

http://tnttt.com/album_ ... pic_id=578

Bufordt

I just picked up my 5 by 9 chassis. 4 inch channel with 3 inch angle for the cross members, monroe shocks and axle, I provided the wheels and tires, $726

Hey Ken,

That sounds pretty kewl... got a photo of that?

Mike...

pictures in my camera, camera in my truck, it’s raining really hard

don’t want to get my camera wet

You need this spiffing new idea:

This Mark2 version has the additional benefit is protection from lighting stikes.

Andrew

BufordT wrote:Ok here we go. I've got 140.00 in this so far and that is not counting the axles. That will be another 140.00

He's the new chassis Idea I'll be using on my next tear.

http://tnttt.com/album_ ... pic_id=578

Bufordt

The link you posted was the thumbnail, I thought it was made out of wood when I saw it. I went to your gallery and found the real pic, surprise, it's 2X2 square tubing with a little of that Florida rust.

<img src="http://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?image_id=578"" alt="" width=480 height=360>