Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I'm considering cladding the roof of my ( not yet built ) TD with Cedar. Long boards 1/8 thick x 10 inch wide, length ways from the frount to the rear, glued side by side, then finished with epoxy and finally marine coat. My question is - what is the best meathod for bending the boards over the radius of the tear roof ?

I'll try whatever suggestions i get from here along the top of my templates and see what works best or i'll find out if its indeed possible at all ?


Thanks.

Niall.

Niall, You'll probably find that either steam or moisture will be the best way to ensure they do not split. Cedar becomes very brittle as it becomes thinner. How do I know? I used it on the interior of Number 2.
Moisten the slats and gradually bend and clamp them into place. After they have formed and dried remove the clamps and glue and screw/nail into place.
Be aware that with that many joints over the roof you will be more susceptible to leaks.
JMHO

Cheers
Paul

I realize I'm about to complicate this by a ton, but if I were going to do that -- and it sounds like it would look awesome -- I'd run a layer of Tyvek underneath the cedar boards.

Thanks Guy's,

Yup my brain is telling me if i can make this work it will look great.

I'll try the "wet it / bend it slowly" and see what happenps The roof will already be sealed with bendy ply ect. I thought the cedar boards could then be glued to the ply and epoxy would then used to fill in and seal it all up.I'm sort of following Steve Frederick's plans and he shows this method using differnt timber and accross the tear roof not along it's length.

Thanks for the advice..........i'll try some short lengths over the next few weeks, if it works i'll post a pic or two of the sample !

Tnanks again,
Niall.

PaulC wrote:Niall, You'll probably find that either steam or moisture will be the best way to ensure they do not split. Cedar becomes very brittle as it becomes thinner. How do I know? I used it on the interior of Number 2.
Moisten the slats and gradually bend and clamp them into place. After they have formed and dried remove the clamps and glue and screw/nail into place.
Be aware that with that many joints over the roof you will be more susceptible to leaks.
JMHO

Cheers
Paul

Paul thats what Saunas are for... steaming ply, paneling and finally people..
Remember I bent the ply in our Sauna..

Heikki

if you're doing 1x6s, there's a nifty steamer you can build with PVC pipe -- I saw mesquite bent with it on This Old House a couple of years ago (well, actually, they were straightening it; mesquite's a twisty wood).

Niall,
remember if you are going to bend it by wetting it you need to submerse the pieces to let the water soak into the wood, 1/8 inch thick should not take too long but if you do not you almost guarantee a split on your tighter radius curves, also look at the grain carefully because there is an inside and outside to each piece and sometimes while you are bending a piece may start to split but does not you can flip it over and get better results, without losing a piece.make sure the cedar is all straight grain no knots where you are bending the tightest radius curve.

Sorry for the long post but I have made some shaker bentwood boxes and had some gorgeous pieces snap because I went too fast

great advice

Thank you Rick.

I had no clue about the knots.

Niall.

Niall... If I were going to lay up a "stripper" covered tear... kinda like ya build boats & kayaks... I would cut the strips down narrower like to 2" or 3" at most. Will be a lot easier to apply and get glued down well, I think. If you number the strips and put them on in order you will prolly never see the joints anyway. I would just use Titebond II or III yellow glue... easier to clean up the squeeze-out and plenty strong enough. Next... I would prolly wet or steam the strips, then pre-bend them around a form to dry. The tear frame could be used as a temporary form. Once bent like that they should be easy to apply. One more way to bend wood is with heat... (without wetting it) Most wood become quite limber heated with a heatgun long before it burns. Obviously, that is a major point... heat it till it's flexible... but don't burn it. Just my thoughts on the subject.

friend ~ Brick

Niall, where the heck are you gonna get 1/8" thick Cedar boards that are 10" wide? I'm interested. I could do a lot of interesting things with boards like that.

Hi Dan,

I cant buy them anywhere - a small cabinet making shop near where i work said they could take 1 inch x 10 inch boards and slice them for me, then they are going to run them through some kind of sanding / planing machine giving me the finished size i want ! I'm a little lucky here, the guy's in the shop owe me a few favors so it wont cost me anything except for the original material purchase. I know its alot of wasted material, but if i can bend the boards it'll be worth the sawdust !

Niall.

Shouldn't be much waste if you can get four out of each 1x10....

Laredo wrote:Shouldn't be much waste if you can get four out of each 1x10....

He'd be wasting 50% of the wood if you only get four. I wouldn't call it waste though, I'd call it sawdust.