Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I've got a Snowbear trailer that's got a 4'6" wide deck. I will be building my Teardrop on this deck. Here's my problem. I would like to maximize the width of my trailer, but for the cost and effort, will it be worth it to gain 6 additional inches. That means buying 5' wide stock for the roof and ceiling. Here's my trailer

http://www.snowbear.com/html/8000.html

fornesto wrote:I've got a Snowbear trailer that's got a 4'6" wide deck. I will be building my Teardrop on this deck. Here's my problem. I would like to maximize the width of my trailer, but for the cost and effort, will it be worth it to gain 6 additional inches. That means buying 5' wide stock for the roof and ceiling. Here's my trailer

http://www.snowbear.com/html/8000.html

Hey Fornesto...

At 4'6" you are already going to have to buy 5' material. You might as well do it right and make it 5'. You won't regret it...

Later I'll resize a photo of how they did flat bed pickup up trucks almost 100 years ago... okay maybe 79 years ago...

Mike...

One of the questions that keeps poping up time and again, is "can I build a 5' wide teardrop on a 4' wide HF trailer...

My recent trip to the heritage center yielded me these three photos that show, it is indeed possible. Notice the use of structural beams to give you support across with width of the body...








Mike...

Mike, the problem is the trailer will be that much taller, and I find the h/f trailer base is already too tall for my taste.... I'm going to try and lower mine in the spring.. another 2.5 inches would just be too much. Shirley already needs a stool to get in and out.

There's another way.

You'll need a bit you can drill through metal with, and some 2''x4'' stock. Mount a 2x4 the width you want your floor to be at each end of your trailer, bolting through the 2x4 and the trailer frame about 3'' from each end of the frame, and again about 3'' toward the center from each end, on the OUTSIDE of the steel frame. (Go ahead and countersink the lockwashers and nuts. You'll want this very thoroughly waterproofed!)

Put another pair of 2x4s on the INSIDE of the long frame rails, mounted and waterproofed the same way. Now you can bolt a 'cripple stud' to the OUTSIDE of the frame, thru the frame and the 2''x4'' and a block on the inside of the 2''x4'' for stability, one 10'' in front of the axle and one 10'' behind it. (If you're building more than 9 1/2' long, you may want to put another one halfway between the one in front of the axle and the front of the trailer). You can set a rim joist on the outside of these blocks and bolt your plywood floor to that. Now you have a frame you can insulate and/or enclose underneath. If you need more ground clearance substitute steel T-posts for the 2x4's and weld them across the underside of the HF frame.

Be aware the wooden frame I've just described will weigh approximately 75 pounds. I do not know the weight of the steel version but it would be at least equal and quite likely higher.