Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Well, after doing some more shaping on the profile and getting it where I wanted it, It came time to dry fit the walls to the sub floor. After a few miscalculations in my drilling for the floor install, I filled the boo boos with wood putty and forged ahead. I got the walls dry fit FINALLY. I laid both walls on the saw horses and drilled out a few holes for the roof spars. I decided since my tear is wider than most at 6 feet, I went ahead and installed my roof spars on 8" Centers....well, a few got off measurement but they are pretty close...I hope this is ok. I cut out all my roof spars using the super expensive Red Oak Select...you know, the expensive wood that you pay by the foot. Anyway, I drilled all the holes for the front spars and began to dry fit all the spars. I got on a roll and went ahead and filled up the front portion with spars...I know, it's a lot of work just to be taken apart again and glued up.

Looks good! Remember, if you are planning on a roof vent fan, you have to frame for it ahead of time!!

IS the roof vent framing supposed to be 14-1/4" x 14-1/4"? Whats the best way to frame it? Double Spars glued together?

sandman wrote:IS the roof vent framing supposed to be 14-1/4" x 14-1/4"? Whats the best way to frame it? Double Spars glued together?

that is exactly what I did - size and double spars

Yeah--14 1/4" opening, and doubled up if you're using 1 by 2s. (You need that extra lumber around the opening to screw into.)

Otherwise, when trying to screw the vent in, your screw will just go into the air. Has to do with how the flange on these vents are made, and they all seem to be the same, regardless of the brand.

(Side note: I doubled up ALL of my 1 by 2 spars for a 1 1/2" square spar. It's like a TANK!)

As far as the rest of your spars go, the sky's the limit for you. I guess you should first decide where you're going to place your bulkhead walls, which will define the rest of the galley layout, more or less. Once the upper wall is in, you'll know where to put that last hatch spar, which you should TRIPLE up since it supports the hatch. Some guys double 'em up, I did FOUR, but you should at least do 3 because of your width.

Where are you running your wires?

I measured the floor to get a 6' 6" space. that was the mark I used for the stub wall in the galley, the one the counter sit's on. Jim G

sandman wrote:IS the roof vent framing supposed to be 14-1/4" x 14-1/4"? Whats the best way to frame it? Double Spars glued together?

Sandman, I used this as my vent in my Tear and it works great and it is only 6" in diameter. http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2002331/p-2002331/N-111+600005234/c-10107

Todah

Nows the time to frame a front window if you want one

Wow, Thats looking good!!!

Man, 6 feet wide!! Your going to have some kicka$$ galley space.





Mk

Dry fitting is the KEY to making sure the fit and finish at the end of the project comes out with the minimum amount of hassle...afterall, the devil is in the details and you want your work to look as good as it can...I would also take the time to insure that ALL of your spars are the same length or at least not overlength...I also recommend that you use a vertical bulkhead in conjuction with the hinge spar to give that spot much needed rigidity...
madjack