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Hatch Alignment

PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 12:04 pm
by Classic Finn
Whats the best way in aligning the hatch now? Is there somthing specific needed to be checked or done? Or should I continue onto skinning ? Just a beautiful day here in Finland.. So busy as a Beaver.... On the Voyager all day... :thumbsup: :D

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Classic Finn ;)

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 12:20 pm
by madjack
Heikki...this what we did/do(using a hurricane hinge) using the correct size spacer for the hatch skin, we attached the hinge, then slid the hatch into place on the tear...we then alligned the hatch and wedged it into the correct position using shims/spacers... removing the spacer under the hinge, we proceeded to attach the skin, using a brad nailer and Gorilla Glue. We then allowed the whole assembly to sit in place overnight...because of the "under" curve on your hatch, you will probably have to use straps to pull everything into place....this is simply the way we didit and it certainly isn't the only way....
madjack 8)

PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 12:26 pm
by Classic Finn
Thank You Madjack

We are so pleased so far since all is square the way its supposed to be...
feeling is still sort of jittery now that it comes time to add the hinge and get that aligned... We,ll do by your instructions....

Im just wondering as to what glue would settle in weather change like this.... :thinking: :thinking: Gorilla Glue doesnt seem to be found here unless its under a different name...

We have strong all weather glues but they need the gun as in silicone tubes....Would that be ok? Also we have this ... dont know if its familiar to anyone here..CASCOLIT

and Sikaflex (very popular here) 11fc Multipurpose Adhesive Sealant Black 310ml Sikaflex has multiple products available here but this is just one of the many...

Multipurpose elastic sealent and bonding adhesive
for waterproofing , sealing , roofing , sanitary ware Etc.
Seals, Bonds and adheres to a wide range of substrates

including:
Steel , PVC , Zinc , Fibre Cement , Aluminium ,
Marble , Clay , Concrete , Brick , Wood etc

Fast Curing and permanently Elastic. Resistant to shock , vibration and temperature change.

Here is the hinge we have ... also we have another one that we were thinking of at 1st but its a tough nylon or sort...

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Is there a reason as to the Hinges sections being longer than the other? we also know that the hinge should extend beyond the exterior wall a bit,
was it an inch on both sides or less?

Classic Finn :D

PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 12:47 pm
by madjack
Heikki, glue used is upto you...whatever you are familiar with and works in your weather will probably be just fine...Gorilla Glue is a 1 part, moisture activated urethane adhesive...I really like urethane adhesives whether they are GG or tube urethane constuction adhesives...SIKA makes many excellent adhesives as well.....
madjack 8)

PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 12:49 pm
by Classic Finn
madjack wrote:Heikki, glue used is upto you...whatever you are familiar with and works in your weather will probably be just fine...Gorilla Glue is a 1 part, moisture activated urethane adhesive...I really like urethane adhesives whether they are GG or tube urethane constuction adhesives...SIKA makes many excellent adhesives as well.....
madjack 8)


Yup Sika Adhesives are found easily and they are widely used here for all purposes... including Marine...So we,ll go with that...

Plus both top and bottom of the hatch is made of oak so it should also be plenty strong if not overkill but ok.. Plus the hinge mounting rib or spar which is it called is also oak...

:D :D Classic Finn

PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 1:08 pm
by madjack
...the right hand portion of the hinge as shown in your pic goes on the body...the left hand on the hatch...the long downleg on the left is for attaching to the tear hatch...we also drilled some additional holes in the top leg(on left portion) for more mounting strength...the hinge should be at least 1" longer(or more) than the body is wide...this will allow the hinge to act as a diverter...the hatch portion should be around a 1/2" shorter than the body portion...you then drill a small hole at each end of the hinge "barrel" portion on the body side and insert a small screw to keep the hinge from sliding around
madjack 8)

PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 1:15 pm
by Classic Finn
madjack wrote:...the right hand portion of the hinge as shown in your pic goes on the body...the left hand on the hatch...the long downleg on the left is for attaching to the tear hatch...we also drilled some additional holes in the top leg(on left portion) for more mounting strength...the hinge should be at least 1" longer(or more) than the body is wide...this will allow the hinge to act as a diverter...the hatch portion should be around a 1/2" shorter than the body portion...you then drill a small hole at each end of the hinge "barrel" portion on the body side and insert a small screw to keep the hinge from sliding around
madjack 8)


Gotcha :thumbsup: :thumbsup: Dumb Question but the Hinge will be installed before the skinning begins then correct?

Classic Finn

PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 1:36 pm
by madjack
...correct me if I am wrong...the cabin side is finished...right...so you can do your permanent installation of the hinge on the body side...if you do it our way, the hinge will be temporarily installed on the hatch side...we used spacers the thickness of the hatch skin plus the AL that will cover the ply...once hatch is wedged into position on the tear, you will remove the spacers from under the hinge...you should now be able to slide the ply skin under the hinge and continue on with attachment of the skin...I would dry fit everything before appling adhesive...once the adhesive is setup, remove the hatch from the body, you can now remove the hinge from the hatch to apply the AL skin......
madjack 8)

PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 1:39 pm
by Classic Finn
madjack wrote:...correct me if I am wrong...the cabin side is finished...right...so you can do your permanent installation of the hinge on the body side...if you do it our way, the hinge will be temporarily installed on the hatch side...we used spacers the thickness of the hatch skin plus the AL that will cover the ply...once hatch is wedged into position on the tear, you will remove the spacers from under the hinge...you should now be able to slide the ply skin under the hinge and continue on with attachment of the skin...I would dry fit everything before appling adhesive...once the adhesive is setup, remove the hatch from the body, you can now remove the hinge from the hatch to apply the AL skin......
madjack 8)


We have the ply on top of the cabin side but not permanently installed near the hinge area...

But now we have the correct replies so we can advance ... thank you again Madjack...I,ll post more new pics in a day or 2...

Classic Finn :thumbsup: :D :D

PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 8:49 pm
by Jiminsav
Heikki, I'm sure MadJack would be more then willing to hop a flight to Finland and get that hatch together for you..all it takes is a plane ticket. 8)

PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 10:28 pm
by madjack
Jiminsav wrote:Heikki, I'm sure MadJack would be more then willing to hop a flight to Finland and get that hatch together for you..all it takes is a plane ticket. 8)


...nope, it would take 2 tickets(roundtrip)...I don't think the wifey(aka the poor girl) would forgive me if I went byself...it would be a really cold homecomming...to the doghouse(or tear)
madjack 8)

PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2007 6:53 am
by asianflava
Forget about plane tickets, I'm shure Heikki can help hide a stowaway (or 2) on one of those big ole' cruise ships.

PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2007 9:15 am
by Classic Finn
Ok my fine feathered friends... how many want to come over? ...More the merrier...A real International Gathering and 1 teardrop on the way.. :lol: :lol: :lol:

1st International Teardrop Gathering literally speaking... :lol: :lol: If you fine folks come over we could build tear number 2 in a hurry... Professionally too...Im just a Rookie yet.... :D :)

Classic Finn ;)