Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hey all,

Decided to go with a 5x8 floor (over the wheels) on a HF 4x8 frame. Glued & screwed 2x3s on end with framed indents for wheel clearance, threw a few good coats of rubberized undercoating and then here we are....

Only four bolts line up with my floor framing. Two of them on the front most crossbeam, and then two just after the axle. In measuring for bolt head cutouts so that my frame lies flat on the chassis, but there are only four bolts that fall on the 2x3 framing.

All the crossbeams do contact the long edges of the chassis, but is it safe to drill on major stresspoints like that? How else could I attach my floor to the chassis?

Ideas, suggestions, welcome.

You can drill through your 2x3s and into the channel practically anywhere. It's okay to drill holes in the top side of the "C" channel. Some folks have over 20 bolts holding down the floor. I have 3 in front, back and sides. The cross beams and outer perimeter are all selaed with clear silicone. Adding the floor and "box" actually will strengthen the chassis. Just don't drill holes through the tongue anywhere. Just my 2 cents worth!!!!

When you say 2x3 are you saying finished measure or milled. If they are actually 2" there is no reason you can't just drill more holes. I drilled mine from the bottom after I put the floor in place. It might go someplace but I don't want to be in the tornado when it happens.

My frame is made of 2x3 milled on end and 3/4 acx ply. My walls are 3/4 ply also.
The spots marked "X" are where I know I can put a bolt, probly 5/16 or 3/8, I'm wondering about the spots marked "O", should I be drilling there?

I would drill from which ever side is the thickest. There is no reason I can see to not drill there. Your frame is basically there to tie the body to the axle. Provides some support but you are not putting a tank in it. I hope.

kiltedwon wrote:My frame is made of 2x3 milled on end and 3/4 acx ply. My walls are 3/4 ply also.
The spots marked "X" are where I know I can put a bolt, probly 5/16 or 3/8, I'm wondering about the spots marked "O", should I be drilling there?

I don't think that the 'O' locations would cause any problems what so ever. I would suggest that you use silicone or polyurethene caulk (I prefer the poly) between the wood and the metal frame. With tight fitting bolts in the holes there should be no problems.

EDIT: I would also make sure and sand, prime, and paint the areas that you drill new holes into to prevent rust from getting in.

No problem!!! That's about where I put mine. Be sure to use zinc plated bolts and nylock nuts. Prime and paint and you're on your way.

Thanks to all for the advice! Its always nice to find out your Oops isn't as bad as you thought! Back to gettin' my BUILD ON!

Miriam C. wrote:It might go someplace but I don't want to be in the tornado when it happens.

Auntie M, are you smoking crack again???

What does this mean??? I don't get it????

Mk

Mary K wrote:

Miriam C. wrote:It might go someplace but I don't want to be in the tornado when it happens.

Auntie M, are you smoking crack again???

What does this mean??? I don't get it????

Mk

Nooooo. Mike screams every time I light the match. (he said that)

(Just means it won't blow off the frame.)

Just an idea...if you have a welder...I'd weld up some tabs on the frame and attach to them...Others may disagree, but I know that in the trucking industry you want to keep holes in the top of a frame rail to a minimum....I don't know how critical it is on something like this, probably not, as it's not that heavy but sometimes old habits are hard to break...I have seen truck frames fail before however....Doug