Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I would hollow out the plywood sides to insert foam.
And the top would have spars going across with foam in the center.
<img src="http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h296/impalaman63/Walls----2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket">

might be awful heavy.
but it sure ought to hold up.

teardropsleeper wrote:I would hollow out the plywood sides to insert foam.
And the top would have spars going across with foam in the center.
<img src="http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h296/impalaman63/Walls----2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket">

Instead of using 1//2" plywood, I would just use 1/2" or 3/4" framing and put insulation in the void spaces. Lighter and should be less work.

teardropsleeper wrote:I would hollow out the plywood sides to insert foam.
And the top would have spars going across with foam in the center.
<img src="http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h296/impalaman63/Walls----2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket">

Have I got it right, you are using the 1/2" ply as framing? \

1: make sure your foam is the same thickness as the ply.

2: I used 1/8th on the insides and 3/8" on the outside because I couldn't get what I wanted in 1/4.

I think it will be fine and even light if you remove enough of the 1/2"----you may need to go to 3/4 to get the foam to fit.

GitRdun

can't remember where i saw it now, maybe at rqriley.com, maybe at some woodworking magazine.

there's a technique that lets you basically do what Mike's "improved weekender" framing looks like, and use the (probably cut with a router) plywood "framing" as a skeleton, allegedly stronger and lighter than the same frame built in dimensional lumber (joint strength an issue).

1/2" ply as framing ?----YES

1/2" foam

Can't get 1/8" Lauan around here in MPLS,MN.
Only can find 1/4" lauan.

Maybe go with 3/4" stock for the framing and router in 1/2" on the side wall and 1" down from the top edge. ( Might be stronger)

I don't believe the strength of the joints in the framing inside a double-skin wall is important. As long as the framing is decently glued to each skin, I believe you could not bother joining the framing at all.

So I don't see using plywood with big lightening holes as any stronger than using regular framing. It might be felt to be easier (I'm not entirely convinced) but I'm pretty sure it's a good way of adding lots of unnecessary weight.

I reckon anything more than 1x1 framing is chosen for convenience of buying or using, not because it's actually needed. Cutting a plywood core down so that it's 'sticks' are 3/4" wide, without snapping it, is going to be hard.

Andrew

TDSleeper!

All my latest trailers have been framed with lightened & insulated 1/2" plywood (as you described) with 1/4" luan outer sheathing and 1/4" birch/maple/oak-finished plywood inner paneling ... works great, and the resulting structure is STRONG, lightweight, and comfortable.

I'm surprised to hear that you can't find 1/8" luan in MPLS! I live in a town/city of only 80,000 and I have 3 local lumberyards, 2 hardwood specialty outlets, plus Home Depot and Lowes that all stock or can get 1/8" luan. I'd like to suggest, however, that you go with at least 1" framing in your ceiling/roof with 1/8" outer & inner sheathing/skins.

I haven't said too much about it for a long time, but I've been building my teardrops with the lightened & insulated plywood wall method since 1988. I started out with 3/4" plywood and 1/8" interior paneling with my trademark "rolled" aluminum siding, but since I started applying glued-on sheet aluminum siding, I've moved to the 1/2"ply with 1/4" inner/outer paneling. The strength of plywood-based walls is far superior to "stick-framed" walls, and in my opinion, less labor-intensive. I also use 1/2" plywood-based cabinetry. I pay a slight penalty in overall weight (about 75#, generally), but save a 100-150# over solid plywood walls (plus you get the benefit of insulation). Just for reference, a basic 8' Li'l Bear comes in around 650# and a 10' model around 750#.

Ultimately, there are many, many ways to build your teardrop, and while nearly everyone here has their "favorite" (myself included), no one way has been deemed the universal best. You just need to look over all methods that are within your ablities and/or learning curve, then choose the one that you are most comfortable with ... and take advantage of all the experience available on this and other forums.

Good Luck on your project! And as always ...

CHEERS!

Grant

Grant Whipp
So something like this (Looks like this is easier to make and less time consuming)
<img src="http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h296/impalaman63/po.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket">



and NOT like this (This looks good but needs more time and expertise )
<img src="http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h296/impalaman63/Frame.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket">

TDsleeper,

it all works! its just up to you! I did the stick frame and the next tear that I do will have plywood/insulated walls. TIME

Do what you know to do, but the suggestions for 1/8 are good suggestions, When you are done, you will be soooooo surprised at how strong the teardrop will be

Have fun,

John

PS, Grant has some great products you should consider using

Mentioned in the previous posts, there are lots of ways to build your trailer, no one way is the RIGHT way. People do things for their own purposes. If you are wanting it to be simplier, you are over complicating the joint. It may be stronger, there are many other places that strengthen the "box". The cabinetry and bulkheads add tremendously to the strength.

Thanks for posting my pic....As for using stick framing instead of sheet ply, the foam insulation is 3/4in, 3/4in plywood is not. If you use the same insulation I did, it will be thicker than your frame, it does make a difference.

BTW: It's easier to cut square insulation panels instead of radiused ones.