Teak and Varnish Questions

[Classic Finn]

I was wondering if any of you know as to what ... varnishes or clear coatings is best suitable for teak...? Or is a wax better ?

Has anyone worked with Teak

Classic Finn

[Keith B]

I've never had good luck in finishing teak.. I had a swim platform on the back of a boat in teak and it just didn't hold a finish very well, I think there is just to much oil already in the wood. They make a special oil for finishing teak out - I don't know... maybe if it sat in the sun for a few months to dry out it'd help.

[rbeemer]

Heikki,

Search for a finish that is specific to teak or you can use Epoxy also, but try the other type of finish first because expoxy can be expensive and overkill for what you need

[bledsoe3]

expoxy can be expensive and overkill for what you need

I wish you would have told me that $300 ago.

[angib]

There are several things you can do with teak:

1) Leave it alone. It is very rot-proof in its uncoated state and will gradually go a pale grey colour. But this means it is liable to staining. Go down to the nearest boat marine and you will see lots of bare teak trim on the boats.

2) Oil it. This works well and is fairly quick to do, but needs regular re-doing (every year). The product to use is....... "teak oil", at least that's what it's called in Britain! Buy it from a boat shop or hardware store.

3) 'Deks Olje' is a halfway house between oiling and varnishing. It gives a lovely hardwearing finish but is lots of work to do. You must follow the instructions! You must even read the instructions before starting! If you cannot do this, don't use this product! Buy it from Maritim.

4) Varnish it. This is quite a lot of work as, in addition to the actual sanding and varnishing, you have to get the natural oils out of the wood before you start and this isn't easy to do well - you have to wash the teak with acetone, but this isn't that easy and if you don't do it well, the varnish doesn't last long.

Oiling is probably the easiest and it will look nice.

Andrew

[Sierrajack]

Heikki,
I would like to suggest Tung Oil. It's a durable moisture-resistant and nondarkening finish. It gives a low luster and natural appearance while being easily applied and renewed. Don't forget that if you use rags, be sure to throw them in a water filled bucket. If you want a higher sheen, use Danish Oil.

[Miriam C.]

Heikki,
Is this your counter? If it is use something approved for food preparation areas.

[Classic Finn]

There are several things you can do with teak:

1) Leave it alone. It is very rot-proof in its uncoated state and will gradually go a pale grey colour. But this means it is liable to staining. Go down to the nearest boat marine and you will see lots of bare teak trim on the boats.

2) Oil it. This works well and is fairly quick to do, but needs regular re-doing (every year). The product to use is....... "teak oil", at least that's what it's called in Britain! Buy it from a boat shop or hardware store.

3) 'Deks Olje' is a halfway house between oiling and varnishing. It gives a lovely hardwearing finish but is lots of work to do. You must follow the instructions! You must even read the instructions before starting! If you cannot do this, don't use this product! Buy it from Maritim.

4) Varnish it. This is quite a lot of work as, in addition to the actual sanding and varnishing, you have to get the natural oils out of the wood before you start and this isn't easy to do well - you have to wash the teak with acetone, but this isn't that easy and if you don't do it well, the varnish doesn't last long.

Oiling is probably the easiest and it will look nice.

Andrew

Andrew just got back from Maritim.... Whew and Whew a very nice place for teardrop goodies and yes I found the stuff for the Teak...

I will have a surprise for you as to what Im doing... but not yet..

Its a deck oil....

Classic Finn

[Classic Finn]

Heikki,
I would like to suggest Tung Oil. It's a durable moisture-resistant and nondarkening finish. It gives a low luster and natural appearance while being easily applied and renewed. Don't forget that if you use rags, be sure to throw them in a water filled bucket. If you want a higher sheen, use Danish Oil.

Hi there Sierra Jack.... I,ll take a photo of the stuff I picked up for that purpose...

Classic Finn

[Classic Finn]

Heikki,
Is this your counter? If it is use something approved for food preparation areas.

Auntie M

No its not for the Counter as that is done already but with another coat after its installed and when all is to be cleaned and such...

Counter has a natural wax on it ...

Classic Finn

[tonyj]

At least on the boats on the Texas coast, it is a toss up between wanting a varnished or weathered look. Varnish requires sanding and revarnishing every couple of years. I would prefer oil myself.

[Sierrajack]

Heikki,
Alrighty then. Yes, send photos, what are you building? A battleship?
I wish I was a wealthy Finn, I'd have teakwood all over the place...........

[Classic Finn]

Heikki,
Alrighty then. Yes, send photos, what are you building? A battleship?
I wish I was a wealthy Finn, I'd have teakwood all over the place...........

noooooo ships... What does wealthy mean? ohh wealthy ...
that sounds like the politicians... not us..

Classic Finn

[Steve_Cox]

Heikki,

I've used this stuff, and it turned out really nice. Low maintenance too.

[Classic Finn]

Heikki,

I've used this stuff, and it turned out really nice. Low maintenance too.

Hi there Steve...

Pleasure to hear from you.. Now that boat is my style... I,ll check into that stuff...

There aint nuttin wrong with doin a lil refinishing on an only tear in the Country... With people lining up in curiosity.... I can hardly wait...

You sleep in that thing???? (Not Only)...

Classic Finn