Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Working on the tear. Next weekend, I am going to try to skin the inside of the roof so that I can start insulating. I am using 1/4" luan and tested bending it around the outside curve of the TD without much luck. Any tips for bending it around the inside of the TD? Pics of my TD can be found at http://www.ifindu.com/teardrop/ for more info. As always, I appreciate any and all help.

Jimbo,
Sorry that I can't offer a tip on bending the luan
I tested some ply from Home Depot and I could not get it to comply to the major curves. I think it's because the cheaper ply is lumber core, that is, veneer in the faces, thicker wood for the core. If you bend along the face grain, you break the core, accross the face grain breaks the face veneer.
I ended up with 1/8" luan, a little higher price after using two layers, but no breakage! The ply I got had three plys.
You could try kerfing the inner face of the ply. Set your circular saw to cut about 1/2 way through the sheet, space the cuts 1" or so apart.
You could also wet the sheets, set out in the sun. The sunny side will curve in.
Ive seen it happen to ply that I wanted flat for other projects
Food for thought, Steve
PS The project is looking great...Use gussetts for the hatch!

Steve:

Do you have a photo or a description of the gussets you are using for the hatch? I'm not quite sure what you mean...

Thanks!

Rik

Rik, Here is a shot of the hatch frame. The ribs are fastened to the gussett. The ribs run width-wise as opposed to the "traditional" direction. I claim no credit for the idea..It's Kevin Hauser's, (Kuffel Creek).
I hope this clarifies things.
Steve

On the subject of the hatch, Here's some shots of the hatch being covered in strips. I glued the strips to the ply with Titebond2. Hot-melt glue holds things till the glue sets. It pops off with a little shot with a paint scraper. I did about 3/4 of the hatch in a couple of evenings.

These are the "tools" of the process..Blueberry bread aids in my focus


Taking the weekend off, going to the cape. Coincidentally...(don't tell my Wife) I'll get to drop in on the Tearjerkers in Sandwich, While we are visiting friends.
See Y'all Later, Steve

Hey Steve,

That's an interesting way to clamp those babies down. Hot glue! But I think I would need more than 1 slice of blueberry bread. That project must be time consuming, to say the least. 2 evenings out there any you're only 2/3 of the way done. You've got the patience. Not me.

But it's going to be sweet looking when it's done if that picture of the kayack was any clue!!!

Mike...

Steve,

Thanks for the great photos. So you have one gusset on each side of the hatch, correct? What thickness is the gusset plywood? And is there anything attached to the backside (side away from camera)? Sorry...so many questions.

That roof is going to look great. Can't wait to see the final product. I suppose you feel the same way.


Rik

Rik, The ply for the gussett is 1/2" birch. Kevin's plan calls for 1/4" ply. There is a gussett on each side of the hatch. Behind the gussett, out of view, is my
hatch seal system, a series of ply layers arranged to provide a place for a weather strip, and a method to blend the hatch with the sidewalls.

The side of the hatch blends with the sidewall.

I hope this helps.
Hatch process so far
Steve

mikeschn wrote:Hey Steve,

That's an interesting way to clamp those babies down. Hot glue! But I think I would need more than 1 slice of blueberry bread. That project must be time consuming, to say the least. 2 evenings out there any you're only 2/3 of the way done. You've got the patience. Not me.

But it's going to be sweet looking when it's done if that picture of the kayack was any clue!!!

Mike...

Actually, Mike, The process is easy, and is rather soothing after a screwy day de-bugging automation systems I'll bet that I get it done by the end of next week! I've only spent maybe four hours so far, half of that was R&D! Then 'glassing and finishing the outside is all that's left...er..other than figuring out a galley plan!.
For me, the process is the best fun!
Blessings Steve

There is an easy trick to doing the inside curve I learned from someone who builds Teardrops for a living. It is probably too late to do this since your ribs have already been attached, so this will be for prosperity. I used 1/8" mahagony plywood for my inside curve. I finished the interior exposed side with a tung oil finish so that it would be prefinished and still bendable. I glued the ribs to the plywood first. Then after the glue cured I attached each rib one by one up the side bending as I went along. I was able to do this by myself with a dislocated thumb. I used a scrap piece of wood to help hold the plywood in place when I needed to. With two people you could assemble the ribs and inside curve this way rather quickly. With that said, there is also a truely bendable plywood available. I found about it too late of course. I live near portland OR and its available from a place called Cross Cut Hard Woods. This stuff is real easy to work with. I ended up getting almost all my wood from this place and they have it all.

Michael Rodriguez wrote:There is an easy trick to doing the inside curve I learned from someone who builds Teardrops for a living. It is probably too late to do this since your ribs have already been attached, so this will be for prosperity. I used 1/8" mahagony plywood for my inside curve. I finished the interior exposed side with a tung oil finish so that it would be prefinished and still bendable. I glued the ribs to the plywood first. Then after the glue cured I attached each rib one by one up the side bending as I went along.

What chew talkin bout, Willis?

Really Jim it works. And you can say good bye to all those cracked headliners. Of course you don't have to prefinish the wood. I did because I couldn't stand the idea of trying to finish the interior in such a small enclosed space. The fumes, the mess, the mistakes. I prefinished all my woodwork before installing it, even the cabinetry.

I just uploaded some images to possibly aid in explaining how the headliner can be installed in this way. Hope they help. You can find them linked to my profile.

Hey Michael,

That looks like it must have been pretty easy to do! What did you do inbetween those joists? Did you glue in some curved spacers?



Mike...

No spacers in between ribs. Couldn't really find a reason to do so except for and extra area to attach the outer curve material to. I didn't think it would make enough of a difference.