Urethane Paint Comparison By JamesTown Dist. See Last Post

[Keith B]

Well, in researching paint, mostly Interlux and Pettit, I ran across this... roughly $60 a gallon for the paint (basically unlimited color options) and $40 a gallon for the primer (can be tinted), covers 250-350 sq. ft. http://www2.sherwin-williams.com/im/marine/centurionwburethane.asp?nav=Products
Don't know if anyone's used it, but it might be an "option" over $30 p/qt. traditional topside marine paint.

[Geron]

Well, in researching paint, mostly Interlux and Pettit, I ran across this... roughly $60 a gallon for the paint (basically unlimited color options) and $40 a gallon for the primer (can be tinted), covers 250-350 sq. ft. http://www2.sherwin-williams.com/im/marine/centurionwburethane.asp?nav=Products
Don't know if anyone's used it, but it might be an "option" over $30 p/qt. traditional topside marine paint.

Gee,

Just bought 2 qts from West Marine for total 60 bucks. Interlux topcoat

I checked the SW store here hand they had never heard of 1 part polyurethane. Gave me that DUH! look.

g

[Keith B]

Yeah, I got that too - then I went to the "commercial sales store" and they knew ALL about it. I'm actually ordering a case (6 qts) of Brightside as well, from Jamestowndistributors.com ; I was going to go with a yellow or blue, but now I'm leaning toward the darker beige color... I saw on ebay someone is selling a case (6 qts) of Bright Red and Dark Blue for $45+$15 shipping...that's CHEAP if you like those colors.

[Geron]

Don't think we even have a commercial sales store here in Podunk.

6 qts -- You painting the Queen Mary?

I'm hoping 2 will give me two coats. Maybe I'm dreaming

Geron

[Keith B]

Interlux told me 1 qt will do about 100-120 sq. feet "depending".

So, my sides are 10x4 = 40 x2sides= 80
The whole top is 16x5 = 80
The inside of the hatch = 20
So that's 180 sq. ft... 2 quarts for each coat = 4 qts...
The also said 2 coats is the MIN. and some colors will require 3 coats, so, that's 2 more quarts....Total of 6. Jamestown price was $137 a case or $23 a qt..

The primer is the same way... 1 gallon does 500 sq. ft... so I'll be able to have two coats of primer on too.

I should have most of 1 qt. left for "touchups" down the road...

That's why I hate this mail order stuff... If I end up having 3 qts. left over well, TOO BAD... We have got to get a better local dealer....

[Geron]

Looks like I'll be going back for more.
I have to call interlux anyway. I'm going to paint my metal fenders with the stuff and the label says call for information.

g

[Keith B]

Special primers and thinners....that's what I ran in to... I have epoxy on the TD and I have to use a special primer for that...and that primer uses a special thinner.... the I have to use a "solvent" they sell to wash it down with...the the paint and the paint has ITS own primer... so $150 worth of paint and primer jumps to $300 real fast with those solvents... plus a $30 badger hair brush and lots of roller... Crazy aint it...

[Podunkfla]

Keith... If you look into the automotive paints, you can get a better deal on high quality urethanes that are made to hold up for years outside. Here's a good wholesaler that will sell to anyone; I've bought a lot of paint from them. Their prices with shipping are half what my local jobber wants:

http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/
and here: http://stores.ebay.com/Smart-Shoppers-LLC

These guys are good too:

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Pr ... 0lines.htm

As for primer, any good 2K epoxy primer will do just fine. They run about $60. a gallon.

[Keith B]

Thanks Brick... I'm gonna check them out.. I've never shot auto paint is my only concern... I have a gun but I'm far from a "painter"...I'd never paint my own car without more practice.

I just can't believe Interlux says I need 6 qts. of paint.. I can't think a car takes 1.5 gallons, let alone a teardrop...that just seems like a PILE of paint. Joanne said she painted her TD w/ 2.5 qts. Geron...I'm interested to hear what Interlux tells you...

I know paint is the LAST thing I should skimp on, but I also don't wanna buy 6 qts if I don't need 6 qts and I don't wanna buy a gallon of primer if I don't need a gallon.

Thanks for those links... I'm trying to think of what else I can paint to practice on. My chasis isn't perfect, but I'm okay with that as you wont see 90% of it...

[Keith B]

Hey Brick.. .I checked them out.. if I understand correctly I can get everything I need from them for about $180.. now if I can just get the "talent"... I'm "this close" to calling MACCO for a quote.

I just wonder how this SWilliams stuff is... it's a big company and the primer and paint would be 1/3 the cost....however, there's probably a reason it hasn't been done on a TD too...

[Podunkfla]

Hey Brick.. .I checked them out.. if I understand correctly I can get everything I need from them for about $180.. now if I can just get the "talent"... I'm "this close" to calling MACCO for a quote.

I just wonder how this SWilliams stuff is... it's a big company and the primer and paint would be 1/3 the cost....however, there's probably a reason it hasn't been done on a TD too...

Hi Keith... That Kirker Urethane is every bit as good as SW's urethane... and quit a bit less money. I do use some SW products to finish cabinets with. Their conversion varnish is the most durable finish there is, bar none. Sadly, they only sell it in 5 gal. and time you buy the hardner, vinyl primer sealer, reducer and so forth, ya got 300 bucks in it. But, their auto paint is just too expensive when other products are just as good.

As for how much paint? A quart should paint a tear... time you reduce it to spray consistancy. Heck, I painted my Nissan PU with a quart. Most finish coats will cover 500 to 600 square feet per gallon or more! The trick is, you need to have the surface properly sealed and ready to paint. Of course, epoxy like CPS is a good sealer. Frankly, I doubt you need a primer coat at all over epoxy that is sanded smooth... Still, if you have some filler/bondo, etc... a coat of primer would be a good idea just as an adhesion promoter. It is also a good way to see how slick you have it as you block sand it between coats after filling flaws, etc.

Oh yeah... Good auto paint is very forgiving to shoot; compared to cabinet finishes. If ya get a run or sag... wipe it off with a little reducer & a rag... and shoot it again. No biggie.

I'd say... GO FOR IT!

[Keith B]

WOW, now that's a wealth of information. The only reason I bought up primer was because all the "reps" said I needed to over clear epoxy....You know, I found some old lockers out in the chicken house so I was think they'd be good to "practice on"... I guess this whole TD is a learning process, in the building, in the epoxy.. might as well be for the paint and I assume I'd also have to use a clear as well.

[martha24]

Keith... If you look into the automotive paints, you can get a better deal on high quality urethanes that are made to hold up for years outside. Here's a good wholesaler that will sell to anyone; I've bought a lot of paint from them. Their prices with shipping are half what my local jobber wants:

http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/
and here: http://stores.ebay.com/Smart-Shoppers-LLC

These guys are good too:

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Pr ... 0lines.htm

As for primer, any good 2K epoxy primer will do just fine. They run about $60. a gallon.

I've been following this thread because I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to paint my teardrop as well.
I looked that the automotive website and I'm confused
Just what products exactly does one need if one uses car paint? I’m using CPES (already have it) directly on the wood. I’m going to have to use some fillers for some areas, so I would think I would need a primer besides the automotive paint and clear coat. Do these products need special thinners and the such? The web site has so many choices of primers and paints, so how do I know which one to pick?
We have a HF paint gun now, bought to put the polyurethane on the inside walls, so I’m interested in the idea, but my husband or I have never done anything like this. What other equipment do I need besides the paint gun?
What are the steps involved in using automotive paint?
When I’ve never done anything like this, it seems complicated to me. I was considering using Interlux, but the way Keith described it, it has become very expensive.
Thanks, Martha

[Airspeed]

I have done alot of painting on wood using automotive paint. It really is easier than you would think, I use alot of Nason 2K urethane,it uses a catalyst and reducer but is easy to mix. I started spraying with a Harbor freight HVLP gun and it worked fine but I eventualy bought a Sharpe Finex HVLP (about $100 on ebay new delivered),not the bst in the world but it does a very nice job of laying on a smooth paint job. after 24 hours I sand with 2000 grit paper and buff with an electric buffer using polishing compound and then finish compound. There is no reason anyone cant paint automotive paint as long as you have accsess to a decent compressor and gun. Here are some some wooden speakers I painted with Nason 2K urethane. Aaron
http://groups.msn.com/aaronsspeakers/shoebox.msnw
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v655/aaronhero/freshpaint016.jpg

[Airspeed]