Page 1 of 1

Another Hatch Quandry

PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 7:25 pm
by Sierrajack
I will be starting to build the dreaded hatch and have most of the details ironed out except the sides. The sides of my trailer will be 1 3/8" thick and I will overhang the hatch sides that amount also. I want to use aluminum "L" with a weatherstrip but, dont know exactly how to bend it or even if they make aluminum this wide. Also what's the best way to attach the "L" to the hatch? I guess I could anneal the aluminum which should work but I don't want to pop rivet the "L" to the skin because this may interfere with the seal. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The thickness of the hatch will be 1/8" - 1/4" thick with the skin on top of that.
Was that clear?

PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 7:48 pm
by Miriam C.
Jack,
Try this for annealing aluminum.
bending alum.

If and when I do it to mine I am going to have someone cut a leg off mine so it will bend better. May even notch it.

PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 7:57 pm
by Sierrajack
I guess the question is - how do I attach the 1 1/2" "L" to the hatch? Pop rivets will extend into the area where the weatherstrip is. I have a 3/8" notch in the side profile to account for the skin and aluminum. Here's some pics that may help.

Image

Image

PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 11:44 pm
by madjack
SJ, we used pop rivets BUT we also use an insert molding with the rivets going up from the bottom, allowing us to cover the raised portion of the rivet with the insert...they make a rivet that flattens on both sides but I don't know the proper name forit(aircraft???) however it takes a special tool to install.....
madjack 8)

PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2007 12:51 am
by reiltear
cleco???

PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2007 6:15 am
by Sierrajack
Reiltear,
Clecos are used to temporarily hold sheet metal together while rivets are installed - Thanks.

MJ, I shoulda known better and went on my gut as you mentioned earlier. I think I'm going to abandon my current side profiles and get some 3/4" Baltic birch today and start over again. The methods discussed and described in someone else's plans don't quite measure up to what I anticipated or want. I think when I get done, I'm going to write a VERY comprehensive book on how to build a TD so even a cave man can understand it. You've been a great help and I'll do what you suggested in your past PMs - many thanks.

PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2007 7:03 am
by Tripmaker
I had an aircraft mechanic friend help me install the trim with flush rivets. He did have a crimping tool that cost about $200 but it can be done with a hammer, punch, and buck behind the rivet.