Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Okay, I know this will probably sound stupid and the answer may be in here somewhere - however, I have a problem. Unfortunately, I started this TD project with published plans - first mistake. I made a 3/8" notch or cut-out for the hatch on the side profile per instructions. Now that same 3/8" notch is to the floor area. I can make the hatch no problem but, how do you seal the bottom edge of the hatch where it contacts the floor area?
You can check my album and it shows what I'm talking about regarding the notch. I want to cover the rear area of the floor where it's bare wood with 1/8" aluminum strap. Pictures would sure help or just kinda guide my dum brain through this fix. I sure won't build this way again!!
Guess I'll just "back fill" the notch with 1/4" ply and add a 1/8" flat aluminum over that to cover the raw edge - see any problem with that?

Jack, Can you use a rubber seal? When my hatch didn't meet the bottom where I wanted it I added to the top of the hatch. In your case you might be able to move your hatch spar down some.

BTW you need some gap between the hatch spar and the hatch for the hinge too.

Sierrajack wrote: Guess I'll just "back fill" the notch with 1/4" ply and add a 1/8" flat aluminum over that to cover the raw edge - see any problem with that?

Sierrajack, If you don't tell I won't To do that makes a nice edge, I know... my tongue box by the lid needed an 1/8" filler so I just striped it out with 1/8" aluminum. The overhang of my insert molding on the lid hides it all and it looks just fine when open. Danny

halfdome, Danny wrote:my insert molding on the lid hides it all and it looks just fine when open.

I guess it happens to all of us, and not just me.

asianflava wrote:

halfdome, Danny wrote:my insert molding on the lid hides it all and it looks just fine when open.

I guess it happens to all of us, and not just me.

This is something I've been saying for years:
"It's not how good you are... It's how good you can cover your mistakes"
Everyone makes mistakes. Danny

Danny,
Yep, been planning on covering that mistake!! Too bad I had my head somewhere else when I designed this thing. Guess I'll just fill in the nasty notch with 1/4" ply and add a 1/8" aluminum trim.

Jack, isn't the notch there for a seal to be installed?

Jim,
Yeah, the notch is for weatherstripping and a 1/8" aluminum strap to finish the edge. However, when I get to the bottom, the hatch exterior will be flush or match the lower edge of the floor. Now, with that said, this becomes a "stepped" area if I see this correct so how do I solve that problem? Here's some pix to maybe clarify the issue.

http://tnttt.com/album_ ... c_id=19920
http://tnttt.com/album_ ... c_id=19919
I don't know, maybe I'm just confusing the issue?
Thanks

I done did it too!

I changed hinges in the middle of the build (after I cut my 3/8 on the sides) . My 3/8 in gap is too much also. Can you say "Filler?" Either on the TD or on the Hatch under the lid -- or if the gap is too much -- both places. Add to, Take away or Sometimes -- just start over. Not much to the Hatch anyway.


Other places to make "adjustments" -- on the double spar where the hinge goes. Add to or take away OR on the bottom spar, make adjustments there. Do it, cover with skin and DON"T TELL.

g

SJ

If I am reading you correctly, you WANT a stepped area at that point. The thickness of the hatch skin will fit in that stepped area and in the end the hatch will be flush with the back of the floor. Weather stripping between the hatch and floor where the hatch closes keeps the weather out. Also shims can be added to the bottom spar of the hatch to "Jack" up the hatch so that it matches the floor. That would make a difference in the edge gap. It's a hit and miss, experiment and adapt situation.

Jack, like Geron said, just move the bottom spar up a smootch, and then your skin will sit level with the seal you'll install..not a problem at all.

Can you add a strip of ply to the notch to build it up? You will then have to find a way to cover it on the sides.

Yeah, I can add filler to eliminate the notch, thank goodness I dont have the interior or exterior skins on yet.
I can also leave it alone, the luan and skin with weatherstrip on the hatch will make up the 3/8" gap. The bottom of the hatch will be parallel to the floor (maybe a 1/8" gap to prevent sticking) and I could add weatherstrip there. I'll play with the idea when I build the hatch and go from there. Man, why did I do this when I knew better? You know, I really don't see much of an advantage between "stick and frame" as opposed to solid 3/4" Baltic birch. I think I could have saved money, the insulation value is probably the same and probably the weight too. When I get done with this thing, I should be the resident expert. Wish I would have found the Generic Benroy Plans before I invested $$$ in other crap. Guess it ain't really rocket science.........

You know I read your answers all over again and it's not the top I'm worried about - no problem there. It's the sides!! Okay, I can build up that notch with 1/4" ply, add 1/8" or 1/16" aluminum flat stock which would make the hatch level with the top material. I was worried about the bottom of the hatch. When it closes, the hatch will flush with the outside of the floor, there won't be any overhang on the bottom of the hatch for a seal. Guess I could add a piece of flat stock across the bottom of the hatch and one across the raw edge of the floor in back. Clear as mud - eh? Maybe 5 or 6 of the local brewers best would help a ton.

Sierrajack wrote: I was worried about the bottom of the hatch. When it closes, the hatch will flush with the outside of the floor, there won't be any overhang on the bottom of the hatch for a seal. Guess I could add a piece of flat stock across the bottom of the hatch and one across the raw edge of the floor in back. Clear as mud - eh? Maybe 5 or 6 of the local brewers best would help a ton.

Sierrajack, I think I know what your getting at. On my hatch I screwed the leg to regular ole' "T" Molding that's available at hardware stores. I first figured out the angle and ripped a 2x4 at that angle and used a dead blow to shape the top of the "T" to match the angle. Now the area where the floor and hatch meet has a lip that is sealed from the weather . Danny

Thanks Danny, I think I got 'er figured out.
We've had way too much cold weather here and my shop area isn't heated too well and I 've been in limbo too long. When I sit and stew about a problem, seems like it only gets worse until I can lay my hands on it again. Believe me, watching Oprah really sucks. So Monday come whatever, I'm back at it again and I WILL solve the problem.
You've been a great help, thanks to all, I sincerely appreciate you.