Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I have run into a snag. My door is warped. I went out of my way to make sure it didn't lean on something and was always flat, but I have about 1/2 inch warp. I have it off the trailer now with some weight on it. How long should I wait before I try to put it back on?

I think I could of made it water proof the way it was by double sealing, but I would rather have it the right way. I dread the thought of making a new door, besides I would have to order another gallon of Durabak.

Elmo...which way is it warped...so it curves in or out? and I'm assuming it is top to bottom not front to back right? I had a door that warped on my first tear...not like 1/2"...but what I did was run a bunch of kerfs ( a lot) with a circular saw across the back of the door after the window was cut out on it, about 1/2 way through the material and make it more flexible...then set it up absolutely flat and squeeged epoxy into the back to fill the kerfs...then covered it with the interior paneling. It took it all out, but if it is already skinned with the interior paneling, you might have to do something like a wood cleat, and that could be decoratively done. It worked for me, I haven't had good luck with just weighting it and having it come out okay...others opinions may vary...Doug

Elmo... I think Doug has the best solution I know of. I have built more than my share of kitchen cabinets, etc. over the years with a warped door or two. I have rarely had any success straightening them. Since yours are being painted on the outside, matching wood isn't a problem; I would just cut out another door and be done with it.

doug hodder wrote:Elmo...which way is it warped...so it curves in or out? and I'm assuming it is top to bottom not front to back right? I had a door that warped on my first tear...not like 1/2"...but what I did was run a bunch of kerfs ( a lot) with a circular saw across the back of the door after the window was cut out on it, about 1/2 way through the material and make it more flexible...then set it up absolutely flat and squeeged epoxy into the back to fill the kerfs...then covered it with the interior paneling. It took it all out, but if it is already skinned with the interior paneling, you might have to do something like a wood cleat, and that could be decoratively done. It worked for me, I haven't had good luck with just weighting it and having it come out okay...others opinions may vary...Doug

I did a search and and some people added the weights...I figured it would hurt to try. It is kicked out at the top toward the rear...it may not be a half inch...just looks like it.

What is a wood cleat look like? I would rather use it for now and redo the door later.

Podunkfla wrote:Elmo... I think Doug has the best solution I know of. I have built more than my share of kitchen cabinets, etc. over the years with a warped door or two. I have rarely had any success straightening them. Since yours are being painted on the outside, matching wood isn't a problem; I would just cut out another door and be done with it.

Hi Brick...The making the new door would be way to easy. The bad part is that it is already Durabak'd/painted...I need it this weekend...I have to order a whole gallon of Durabak at $90 a gallon and takes at least a week and a half to get here. I was hoping someone had something that worked for them that would work for now.

elmo wrote:Hi Brick...The making the new door would be way to easy. The bad part is that it is already Durabak'd/painted...I need it this weekend...I have to order a whole gallon of Durabak at $90 a gallon and takes at least a week and a half to get here. I was hoping someone had something that worked for them that would work for now.

Pull the "make lemon out of lemonade" cliche out of your files.

And put on your thinking cap:

If you find you DO have to build a new door, instead of Durabak, why don't you skin it with that matching diamond plate (too expensive?) or something else cool? It could wind up looking better to you than just the Durabak.

But I would make every effort to fix this one first.

Don't know if it'll work or not but... I was going to build my doors out of 3/4" 9 layer plywood and wrap the door edges in either steel channel or aluminum channel to keep 'er straight and flat, etc... so... can you wrap the edges of your door?...also, I heard some attach a door stiffener to the inside...this might get you by for the upcoming weekend and you can "fancy" it up later. I was told if you do it right, you can use the stiffener as a handle/towel rack, etc...maybe a thought.

Ira wrote:

elmo wrote:Hi Brick...The making the new door would be way to easy. The bad part is that it is already Durabak'd/painted...I need it this weekend...I have to order a whole gallon of Durabak at $90 a gallon and takes at least a week and a half to get here. I was hoping someone had something that worked for them that would work for now.

Pull the "make lemon out of lemonade" cliche out of your files.

And put on your thinking cap:

If you find you DO have to build a new door, instead of Durabak, why don't you skin it with that matching diamond plate (too expensive?) or something else cool? It could wind up looking better to you than just the Durabak.

But I would make every effort to fix this one first.

I have already thought of that Ira...I happen to have a 4'x5' piece of diamond plate left over with nothing to do. I have been thinking about how to seal the door because I don't think I would be able to go the T molding route. Boy am I glad I didn't put in 2 doors.

Good news is I think the galley hatch sealed up nice.

Keith B wrote:Don't know if it'll work or not but... I was going to build my doors out of 3/4" 9 layer plywood and wrap the door edges in either steel channel or aluminum channel to keep 'er straight and flat, etc... so... can you wrap the edges of your door?...also, I heard some attach a door stiffener to the inside...this might get you by for the upcoming weekend and you can "fancy" it up later. I was told if you do it right, you can use the stiffener as a handle/towel rack, etc...maybe a thought.

I am using 13 layer stuff (this is why I don't think the warp will be coming out any time soon) and had it on the floor of the TD the entire time I was building.

I may just check out the door stiffener for now...do they have those at Home Depot? Never needed them before...or heard of them.

I'd think you can make your own door stiffener... Any kind of oak, steel tubing, etc. will stiffen it.... that'll get you by for now since you're somewhat pushed for time...then later you can take the stiffener off and figure out a "fancier" way of doing things... and who knows...with the stiffener on, you might think of another creative way to mount it and use it.. The hinge side should be okay...but put a 3/4x3/4 steel sq. tube or something on the other side and that should stiffen 'er up...

Keith B wrote:I'd think you can make your own door stiffener... Any kind of oak, steel tubing, etc. will stiffen it.... that'll get you by for now since you're somewhat pushed for time...then later you can take the stiffener off and figure out a "fancier" way of doing things... and who knows...with the stiffener on, you might think of another creative way to mount it and use it.. The hinge side should be okay...but put a 3/4x3/4 steel sq. tube or something on the other side and that should stiffen 'er up...

For some reason I can't picture this.

I just came in from outside and the door is better with the weight on it. Not fixed but closer!

Was the door only sealed on the painted side when it was stored ?

( inside bare wood ! )

bobhenry wrote:Was the door only sealed on the painted side when it was stored ?

( inside bare wood ! )

Both sides done at the same time last week.

I hate to be Mr. Negative... but I would guess, that altough it appears the door is getting better with weight...it will most likely come back once humidity and the elements get to working on it....I'd still stiffen it up.

Keith B wrote:I hate to be Mr. Negative... but I would guess, that altough it appears the door is getting better with weight...it will most likely come back once humidity and the elements get to working on it....I'd still stiffen it up.

Let a person dream!!! Why do you have to be such a downer!!!!!

Oh I know what my final option is going to be...just don't like it.

Still trying to picture the door stiffener thingy for a quick fix. I don't want a wet spot on the mattress because of the door.