Page 1 of 1

Door Design Ideas...

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 3:29 pm
by Keith B
I'm at the stage to build doors...to prevent warping/twisting I can either spend $80+ on VERY good cabinet grade 3/4" ply or spend $60 on solid lumber...so here is my design idea - poplar w/ 1/8" ply on both sides; seal the entire thing w/ epoxy and paint the entire thing w/ my Brightside - no aluminum trim as there will be an interior seal using aluminum z channel for the door jam; ss piano hinge and Grants windows and lock set. Comments?
Image

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 3:33 pm
by Miriam C.
:D Let me know how it works. I do mine next week sometime. I figure with the weather we both are having if it is gonna do something strange it will do is soon. 8)

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 4:11 pm
by Podunkfla
Keith... Sounds like you have it in hand. Nice kiln dried poplar should work just fine and is not all that spendy. Still, it's a good idea to let it "acclimatize" in your shop a couple weeks before you mill it into parts. I usually do that and then cut my parts roughly to size and then let them sit a few days again before I plane them to thickness and do the joinery. Down here in sticky humid Flada it just seems to work out the best that way for me. I don't know if you have a McEwen Lumber warehouse near you? But, they have the best prices for most hardwoods cabinet makers use. They can be a little grumpy about selling to an individual, but they will usually do it if you hold your mouth right. :lol:

McEwen Locations: http://www.hoodindustries.com/distribut ... locations/

Ahhh... I looked & they have one in Louisville, KY: http://www.hoodindustries.com/distribut ... ouisville/

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 4:17 pm
by tonyj
Even good grade plywood cut free from the bonds of a sheet will warp or twist. It's plywood.

I prefer the method you propose because you achieve a little more control over the whole unit. Just make sure your build surface is totally flat and that the poplar is as flat as can be--no warp, twist, or bow. You'll be giving yourself as good a chance as you can get to having a flat door, but it still won't be a guarantee. Doors just hate to do what you want them to.

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 4:20 pm
by Podunkfla
Still graced with two eyes and nine and a half fingers. :o

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 4:29 pm
by Keith B
Thanks guys... well, I know it's best to lay the lumber in the shop for a couple weeks, but I don't know if that's exactly gonna happen...as Miriam stated..we're having some pretty nice temps around here lately and it'd be hard for me to buy lumber, set it on the racks and just stare at it.. :lol: I'm gonna give a whirl...the only other idea I could come up with was to laminate both sides of 3/4" solid foam, but then you'd still have to inlay some supports for hinges, handles, etc... or weld up a steel frame, which isn't entirely out of the question either.

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 4:32 pm
by tonyj
Podunkfla wrote:Still graced with two eyes and nine and a half fingers. :o


The sign of a man who has worked hard with his hands for a long time and still had the inevitable happen. Few woodworkers or mechanics make it through their entire life without hand injury. I am lucky that my stupidity and lack of focus has never cost me--yet! Knock wood.

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 4:55 pm
by Airspeed
I used 3/4" AC and then some 1/2" X1 1/2" fir framing and then the interior 1/4" luan ply with some 1/2" foam insulation.Its been 7 days and it hasnt shown any sign of twisting yet. I just made sure it was on a very flat surface when I assembled it. I think once it is mounted (which I am doing today ) any chance of it twisting as it rests latched in the door way will go away.
Aaron

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 7:58 pm
by Keith B
Welp...got the doors built (framing was $28 for 1x6 Poplar... gonna wait about 2-3 hours then I'll unclamp them, set them on the table saw (flattest surface I know of), put a piece of OSB on top of them and weight them down till tomorrow... hope she works... :thumbsup:
Layed out and drilled for dowel pins........
Image
Clamped up.....
Image
SEEMS TO SIT FLAT....
Image

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 8:21 pm
by Podunkfla
Looks migthty good! You sure got enough frame there to make a strong door... Should oughta work good. :thumbsup: :applause: :lol:

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 8:25 pm
by Keith B
Thanks...it's oversized by 2" wide and 1" tall.... gives me room to saw down, route, etc. once the ply is on both sides.... overkill on the build; I know :lol:, but in all reality, I could use a lil more weight up front.

PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 8:34 pm
by Podunkfla
Keith B wrote:Thanks...it's 2" wide and 1" tall.... gives me room to saw down, route, etc. once the ply is on both sides.... overkill on the build; I know :lol:, but in all reality, I could use a lil more weight up front.


Good plan... They did look bigger than "2" wide and 1" tall" in the pictures... at least to me? Best of luck, and I hope your doors come out nice and flat. :thumbsup: