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Sealing the edges

PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 7:57 pm
by Mary K
Okay, just trying to wrap my head around what need to do once I have the side skin on and before I install trim. I am going to do my trim similar to Barbs (b.bodemer).

But, before I glue and screw the trim on do I need to epoxy the edge where the top and sides come together?

I'm really confused on how to get that edge sealed.

Thanks, again, in advance.

Mk

PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 8:19 pm
by Sierrajack
Mary,
GE Silicone II for aluminum and metal. Let it dry completely, then remove any excess, usually rubbing you finger along any that's squeezed out will make it roll off.
If it's wood to wood, you can seal with clear silicone.

PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 8:24 pm
by Mary K
Sierrajack wrote:Mary,
GE Silicone II for aluminum and metal. Let it dry completely, then remove any excess, usually rubbing you finger along any that's squeezed out will make it roll off.
If it's wood to wood, you can seal with clear silicone.


Thanks SJ!

Mk

PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 8:28 pm
by Miriam C.
MK your glue will seal it but you can cover just the edge with epoxy. Wait a couple of days and sand it so the trim will stick to it. You can also use varnish. All you want is something to repel water.

Oh and you can use epoxy to glue the trim down. Just get the edges while you are at it. :thumbsup:

PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 9:02 pm
by Podunkfla
I think epoxy is good... But I like PL urethane even better because it stays flexible... I like that idea because wood & plywood does move. It's just the nature of the stuff. You can even use it to bed your wood trim with too... It's easy to wipe off the squeeze out with mineral spirits. I am not a big fan of silicone II (and other silicones) since the quality urethanes have come out... They just stick better and last longer in my experience over the last 7 years or so.

Just my opinion... others may disagree? 8)

PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2007 2:12 am
by madjack
I agree with Brick...you could an epoxy seal on the edge and it would be pretty permanent and then do the wood over the top of it...if you don't have nor want the expense of the epoxy, just use the poly sealers/adhesives...like Brick, I have had better long term luck with them than I have had with silicones....
madjack 8)

PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2007 10:07 am
by Ira
To further confuse you...

I used 3m's 5200 --comes in a small tube--and I know other guys here have used it too. (I think Sikaflex is also part of the name--don't remember.)

HD has it, and it's for marine applications. It never dries/cures out 100%, so it stays flexible and won't ever crack.

It can harden up a little coming out of the tube in warm temeratures, so you just bring it back into the house for room temerature, and you're ready to go again in 10 minutes.

I just squeezed it where roof met wall, and worked it with a flathead screwdriver.

And if I knew then what I know now?

After befriending a roofer, I would also run a narrow piece of roof flashing tape on top of THAT. Again, HD sells it in a wide roll, and I would cut very thin strips (to fit within your trim, of course) and tape the edge.

NO water is getting in there NOW!

PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2007 11:37 am
by Juneaudave
For wood trim like Barb's, either epoxy or PL glue will work well without taking a separate step to seal the edges. Assuming you apply the glue correctly, it's going to seal and not leak whatsoever. The trick is to apply the glue over the entire surface and clamp (or screw it) tight enough that it bonds right. I'm putting on trim now with epoxy, simply because I have it and like to use it. I would not hesitate to use a PL at all....Juneaudave

BTW...3M 5200 (Sitkaflex) is a great product and does act like a heavy duty silicon glue. I started using it as a "bedding" compound where you are attaching, for instance, metal oarlocks to a wood gunnel and want to seal moisture out. I have not used it for a wood to wood seal, but don't doubt that once you got it on, it will never come loose.

:thumbsup:

PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2007 12:10 pm
by madjack
FYI...there is no relationship between 3M 5200 and SikaFlex...SikaFlex is a company name, thaey make a wide variety of adhesive/sealant products much as the 3M Adhesive division does...
madjack 8)

PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2007 2:59 pm
by Juneaudave
madjack wrote:FYI...there is no relationship between 3M 5200 and SikaFlex...SikaFlex is a company name, thaey make a wide variety of adhesive/sealant products much as the 3M Adhesive division does...
madjack 8)


You're absolutely correct!!! I just get confused, they seem like similar products and I tend to substitute one for the other.....:oops: :oops:

PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2007 3:52 pm
by Mary K
Thanks Everyone!!!! :thumbsup:

It think I got it... I'm gonna use the PL Adhesive when I install my trim and roll it out so it gets everywhere. I will also screw it on and then plug the holes after it dries.

Im thinking I and going to have to paint my trim also, so that will help seal it to.

I can not find 1/4" thick boards for the top trim around here. So I'm thinking I'm gonna have to use some good 1/4" ply and just paint it. :thinking:

Ah, thats another subject....


Mk

PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2007 8:24 pm
by Podunkfla
Mary K wrote:Thanks Everyone!!!! :thumbsup:

It think I got it... I'm gonna use the PL Adhesive when I install my trim and roll it out so it gets everywhere. I will also screw it on and then plug the holes after it dries.

Im thinking I and going to have to paint my trim also, so that will help seal it to.

I can not find 1/4" thick boards for the top trim around here. So I'm thinking I'm gonna have to use some good 1/4" ply and just paint it. :thinking:

Ah, thats another subject....


Mk


Shoot... Ya ain't got a neighbor or Dad or somebody with a table saw? It's easy to rip boards into 1/4" thick strips (hint: use a featherboard). I'd do it for ya free... but mailing them is kinda a problem?

friend ~ Brick