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Help with removing the hub cap

PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2007 1:42 pm
by unitfive
Hi Everyone,

I am in the process of assembling a Harbor Freight 4x8 trailer and need help with getting the tiny hub caps off to mount the wheels. Are those suppose to be twist off type? I would like to confirm before applying more force. :thinking:

Thx.

Peter

PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2007 2:30 pm
by Geron
Peter,

I'm not sure what you mean :thinking:

If you mean the grease caps on the hubs, they do not have to come off to mount the wheels/tires.

If you are trying to remove/install the hubs, the grease caps on the hubs are pressure fitted to the hubs not screwed in. They can be gently tapped out. But I can't imagine having to do so to "mount the wheels"

Again, a pic would be helpful in that I'm struggling with trying to figure out your question :thinking:

PostPosted: Sat May 05, 2007 4:49 pm
by seahorse
screwdriver and twist of the wrist..........

PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2007 11:43 pm
by unitfive
You are right, that is probably the grease cap. The tires are already mounted on the hubs with this kit. I want attach the hub to the axle and believe I will have to remove the grease cap first to tighten the nut on the end of the axle to lock the hub in place. I wanted to make sure before forcing it open since there seems to be a pin behind that grease cap. I did try twisting it but it didn’t even budge. I will try again using a screwdriver to help push it out from the other side. Thanks guys! :)

PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 2:17 am
by reiltear
You do need to get that cap off. Those are usually pressure fit. The castle nut and the cotter pin are under it. You also need to go and get some brake cleaner and fresh bearing grease and clean, wash and repack those bearings and axle with new grease before you reassemble them. You should be able to get the caps off with a flat screwdriver and a fairly light hammer.

Ilya

PS Do retorque the lugnuts, who knows...

PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 4:13 am
by Geron
Yes, If the wheel is already mounted to the hub then what you are actually doing is mounting the hub to the axle. That was my confusion. Therefore, "what they said" :)

g

Yes, always re-tighten the lug nuts. I bought a cargo trailer a few weeks back off a trailer specialty lot. The Lug Nuts were LOOSE as it sat on their lot!!

After 50 - 100 miles on the road re-tighten lugs again!

g

PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 5:29 am
by angib
unitfive wrote:The tires are already mounted on the hubs with this kit.

It sounds like you have got 'integral wheels' - they are common here (Brtiain) on the smallest trailers, but I've never seen them talked about in the US. They are where the bearings sit in the wheel and there is no separate hub.

You can quickly tell if you have this type, because you won't have any lug nuts/studs/bolts. If that's what you've got, say so, as it would change some of the advice people are giving you.

Here's a picture:

Image

Andrew

PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 6:55 am
by bobhenry
Harbor freight ships the tire and rim already mounter to the hub.
The hub cap you are refering to is the dust cap or dust cover that protects you inner and outer bearing from abrasive dust. If as stated you can't get a screwdriver and a twist of a wrist to dislodge the dust cap go get a socket wrench extention or even a 3/4 inch wood dowl turn the tire around and drive off the dust cap from the inside by running the dowel thru the center hole of the bearing and tap gently with a hammer. The outer bearing will fall out easily the inner bearing is held in by the grease seal. To easily remove the inner bearing put the castle nut on the axle now hook the tire hub assembly on the axle give a sharp pull as you slide the inner bearing on the axle shaft the nut will drag the bearing and seal out. It may take a couple trys and you may have to turn the tire a half turn but it will come. As above clean and dry bearing and repack both bearings. Put a golfball size blob of axle grease in the palm of your hand and press the bearing into it your are trying to shove the grease thru the rollers from one side to the other you will have to rotate the bearing and may have to load from both sides. Put a little extra in the hub but do not pack it full. Reinstall the back bearing and tap in the seal working around and around inserting it a little at a time. Slide your hub assembly onto the axle , insert the front bearing and the large flat washer and next the nut tighten and spin the wheel tighten and spin repeat until the spin seems stiff or slow now back off the nut until the wheel spins free again usually 1/8 of a turn or less. VERY IMPORTANT install the cotter pin and spred right and left until your dust cover can be reinstalled. Tap it gently with a rubber malet or small piece of wood you can destroy it with a hammer so be careful if you must use a hammer try the handle to get it started then seat by driving on the ridge near the seat with a old flat blade screwdriver. As stated although the rim is installed to the hub the lugs are not tight so tighten and drive and tighten again after 15 or 20 miles. You should now be good for 8000 - 10000 miles or a year without further worries.

PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 8:47 am
by bobhenry
Forgot this one ~~~The easiest method to remove the dust cap is a big pair of channel lock pliers. Open them wide and lock on the dust cap and wiggle back and forth with gentle jaw pressure as you can crush the cap.

You might need that info a year from now when the hub is already mounted to the trailer and it's time to repack the bearings.

PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 6:07 pm
by unitfive
Wow, you guys are great! :applause: Thanks for all the help. Angib, I don’t think that is the type of hub I have. I will give bobhenry’s detail instruction a try. I’m building a teardrop to take my 6 year-old camping. I am hoping a well insulated teardrop will help keep the air warmer during nighttime since cold air seems to trigger asthmatic coughs for him

PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 8:30 pm
by Gage
I think I'll just be quite on this one.

PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 12:45 am
by bledsoe3
Gage wrote:I think I'll just be quite on this one.


:o Must be tired from the long drive home. :lol:

PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 6:55 am
by bobhenry
O.K. Gage What did I forget ? Ya got me paranoid . :roll:

PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 3:39 pm
by unitfive
Now you guys have me wondering...

The socket wrench extension really did the trick for me. They did put the cotter pin inside covered by the dust cap so I have to make sure I avoided it when I push the cap off using the socket wrench extension from the inside. I thought it was that pin that was holding the cap in place at first. :oops:

I’m debating if I should move the axle a few inches back or leave it close to the middle as-is.

PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 4:08 pm
by Gage
bobhenry wrote:O.K. Gage What did I forget ? Ya got me paranoid . :roll:
No, your cool. It's just that some questions shouldn't be asked. if he's having problems with a simple dust cap, then he's really going to have problems building a teardrop. Some people just don't know how to think for themselves any more.