Heating aluminum before applying it?

[Airspeed]

I am really concerned about my aluminum skin ballooning or bubbling after it is applied, It will bother me to no end if this happens,
Would heating the aluminum or laying it in the sun before I apply it make any difference?
I know allot of you say not to glue it on,but these same people say theirs has ballooned in the sun, Others say they have glued theirs on and had no problems at all.
I know I have asked this before but this is really bothering me!
I will be very disappointed if I see the aluminum deform in the sun.
My tear is 5X10 and has allot of flat open areas and I can just imagine the skin flapping in the breeze as I drive down the road sounding like a beer can being crushed or an aluminum thunderstorm!
So I am thinking about doing the following,
Applying it on a hot day.
oversizing any screw holes under the trim to allow for expansion.
Is there anything else I can do?
Thanks again for any suggestions on this redundant question!! Aaron

[Leon]

If you apply it hot it will shrink when it cools and expand when it heats up again.

[Gage]

Once it's on the tear, .040 alum is going to move rather you preheat it or not. That's why mine is over trimed and floated. My sides move almost an 1/8". I can see the marking caused by the edge trim. So if your going to glue it, lay the sheet out on the drive way for a couple of hours and then apply to the sides using a damn good adhesive.

[diverguy]

hey AS,
i used henerys 663 outdoor carpet adhesive to apply my alum to the sides. it adheared well and stays flexible to allow for slight expansion. i have had mine pretty cool and in some blistering heat and have not seen one bit of "ballooning". you can get taht stuff and lowes. easy to apply. just my $.02.

[Airspeed]

The reason I was going to apply it hot was to have it at it's greatest expanded size,apply it so any screws or trim will be applied at it's largest point, I know it will shrink back when cooled but when it heats back up I know it will have room to "grow". I was also fantasizing that when it cooled it would be pre stressed and not "balloon" when it heats back up.
Aaron

[Stevebaz]

According to my engineer to allow for a 100 degree temprature swing you need to allow 15 thousanths movement for every foot. I imagine the pannels will be locked solid around the door frames and movement must radiate from there. the longest travel will be back twords the rear hatch which will be about 5 feet or 75 thousanths of an inch movement. This means you will have to mount the skin and its trim and then pull off the trim and open up the holes with a 3/16 drill bit and then put your trim back on. This is my plan when I get there. the real issue is with this kind of movement how do you seal the trim? I live in So Cal so a 100 degree swing is Ok but if you live to where you get below freezing you will have to allow for more. Remember this is metal temprature not ambiant. leave one of these suckers in the hot desert how much will it expand. There isnt any glue to wood that will survive this that I know of.
Of course I am a rookie looking from the outside.