Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I want my TD to be 10ft long as I like the look better and I get more storage/sleeping room. My problem is that 3/4" plywood 4X10 is $58 a sheet special ordered!! DANG!!!

Basicly I need the 1st sheet of 3/4" for my floor. Can I make the floor 2 piece? A 4X8 piece in the sleeping area and a 4X2 piece in the galley? Or go with (2) 4X4 pieces and put the joint in the middle? If I bolt it all down good would it be ok?

Greetings from Colorado Eric!

Sure you can use 2 pieces for the floor! Just plan on the joints being above a frame member. If you are building a wooden sub-frame, so much the better. Use liquid nails construction adhesive everywhere the plywood contacts the wooden frame and screw the plywood to the frame. It won't leak and it's NOT going anywhere.

George T.

George T. wrote:Greetings from Colorado Eric!

Sure you can use 2 pieces for the floor! Just plan on the joints being above a frame member. If you are building a wooden sub-frame, so much the better. Use liquid nails construction adhesive everywhere the plywood contacts the wooden frame and screw the plywood to the frame. It won't leak and it's NOT going anywhere.

George T.

Well, its just going to be a sheet of 3/4" for the floor. I am putting a mattress on top so I am not putting a sub-frame on it. Its going right on top of the metal frame.

I used 3/4 ply and have seams running in both directions (to save ply). none of the seams are on x-members. they are joined underneath using 2x4's that run edge to edge so the 2x4 supports the gap... there is not a hint of springyness in the deck.....

I will be using 2 pieces for the floor and joining them over a cross member. A 4x8 sheet and a 4x2 piece towards the rear. Just amke sure you join them over a crossmember for structural soundness.

I used 5/8 T&G GIS flooring ply, and let the seams land wherever. No worries so far. Screwed it right to the frame, no subfloor.

Good Luck!

Shil

When doing the floor, remember how very light the load will be... it isn't a house with friges and stoves sitting on it..... the load/sq. ft. will be extremely light...

Looks like I'll be using 3/4" Advantec board. a 8ft length and a 2ft length. Now I just need to snag some bolts, washers, lockwashers, etc.

I worried about the same thing being my Scad-A-Bout floor and sides are over 9 foot. I looked around and saw prices of about $78.00 per sheets. One day I poped into my local 89 Lumber and discovered that they stock 4X10X1/2 sheets. I bought 3 sheets for about $50.00 I am not worried about he floor, because my bottom sheet will be thick sheet cut in 2 section, the full sheet will go top of that, and for my sides, once I add my inter wall and maybe a thin sheet 2/4 sheet to insulate, my sandwich walls will be at lease 3/4 in. thick.

Mike

There are lots of ways to scarf your own plywood. One that will work well for TD's is a epoxy/glass tape scarf. I have built several small boats using this technique and see no reason why it will not work on a TD. Here is one link with an explaination. Scroll down to the fiberglass joint section. Using Payson's technique would leave a flat surface, though I see no reason for 2 layers of tape inside and outside. One layer each side will work well. Be sure you have a perfectly flat surface to work on. If epoxy is used this joint is much stronger then the wood itself.

Forgot the link---Here it is--
http://homepages.apci.net/~michalak/1Mar04.htm