Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I know this has probably bin asked before but now that I am ready to start my build.( I got the OK from the wife ) Lets hear what you think is the better of the two for gluing your walls, roof, spars and all them thar structural other parts on, and do you just use drywall, coated or stainless decking screws. Thanks !
Jason

Jason -

Use the "Search" function above, putting in "gorilla AND glue AND titebond" and you will get some hits on this subject. This subject has been discussed several times, with several different takes.

Tear Fan

Neither....Epoxy!!!! Doug

I have been using the "Gorilla" poly glues for many years now and have found them to be excellent products. I have attempted many times to seperate "test" pieces and found that when properly applied, the two halves are securely bonded and the joint is stronger than the parent materials. I used Titebond III on cabinetry or in areas of little or no stress. I also used exterior grade screws in my build so I wouldn't have a rusting problem. I used stainless steel in most areas and if you can get a good buy on them , that may be the way to go. Be sure to read the instructions on the gorilla glue - it requires moisture as a catalyst. The choices are up to you and these only my experiences.

Hi Jason

I have been using a combination of Titebond III and either stainless steel screws or "Deck Mate Evercoat" screws on all my joints. I tested a joint with just the glue, and after clamping overnight and trying to break the joint the wood broke before the joint failed. I was satisfied. Use what works best for you and what you'll feel satisfied with.

Happy building!

Chris

I think both would work fine. If cost is an issue, use TB3.

Thanks guys!!!!
I am leaning toward the titebond III. Because of longer shelf life and cost. But I liked the fact that the gorilla glue expands to fill voids. Looks like it will be titebond and stainless deck screws!!! Unless some one else here changes my mind before I get to the walls.
It sure is nice having all of you to answer my questions and to bounce ideas off of! I really appreciate all of your help. Thanks again!!!!!!!

I use deck screws a lot.. I like them,, not sure if they are as good as stainless for exposed applications... stainless probably look better.

deck screws are not terribly expensive, and don't seem to rust like plain old sheet rock screws...

Jason, if used properly, they will allwork...I really like Gorilla Glue and Titebond II & III for most glue ups...nothing wrong with epoxy but it does have a learning curve and the polyurethane construction adhesives(PL brand, etc.) also do a great job...whatever you use...read and follow instructions!!!!!!!

Titebond...a GREAT all round adhesive, easy clean up/minimal glue line visibility/waterproof...requires extensive clamping/clamping pressure and a 24 hour setup for best results

Gorilla Glue...excellent adhesive if used properly, requires much less clamping/clamping pressure, couplea hours of setup time, waterproof...leaves a dark glue line, clean up is trickier

Epoxy...adhesives don't get any better if used properly, clear glue line, clamping/clamping pressure is minimal, waterproof...more difficult clean up, learning curve to use, relatively expensive...unless it is a fast setting epoxy, the setup time is gonna be 12-24 hours

PL constuction adhesives...another great adhesive, waterproof, very minimal clamping/clamping pressure, can bridge small gaps, fairly quick setup time...leaves a dark grey(usually) glue line, doesn't clean up easily

those are just SOME of the features of several glues...We use a combination of Titebond and Gorilla...everybody has a favorite, whatever you use, be sure you are conversant with the proper useage and it never hurts to testtesttesttesttesttest...oh yeah, be sure and dryfit everything before applying adhesive for final constuction....
madjack

kirkman wrote:Thanks guys!!!!
I am leaning toward the titebond III. Because of longer shelf life and cost. But I liked the fact that the gorilla glue expands to fill voids. Looks like it will be titebond and stainless deck screws!!! Unless some one else here changes my mind before I get to the walls.
It sure is nice having all of you to answer my questions and to bounce ideas off of! I really appreciate all of your help. Thanks again!!!!!!!

Gorilla Glue does expand... But it loses nearly all it's strength when it is not in close contact. So, in reality it does not "expand to fill voids" ...for any usefull purpose? Titebond II or III is slightly better at filling voids, but not much. Epoxy is the only thing I know of to do a good job of filling voids. Even with epoxy you generally need to add a filler (like fumed silica or even sawdust used as a thickening agent) to make it more putty like to use it to fill voids. I use a LOT of Titebond II and it works just fine for most woodworking... and it's cheap.

And, Like MJ, I also really like PL constuction adhesives for exterior work. Great stuff.

...let me echo what Brick said...a lot of people make the mistake of thinking that Gorilla Glue will expand and fill voids...it does expand and does fill voids...however the joint, within that void is about as solid/strong as crackers...thickened epoxy WILL fill a(small) void/gap as will most construction adhesives...like I stated...read/folow all directions...
madjack

You have gotten a lot of good information on this topic. Although I am not a woodworker, it appears that sloppy joints = weak joints. Epoxy is probably the most foregiving in this area, but it's not a good idea to count on any glue to cover up poor workmanship. (I don't mean to imply you would do that, just saying in general it's not a good idea)

I also like to look at the joint to see how it's going to be stressed, then decide if I need mechanical fasteners as well. I love my pocket hole jig. I used it throughout the build. I recently borrowed a friends biscuit cutter and it's way cool too.

On my build I have used TB II, Gorilla Glue and epoxy. I haven't had any problem with any of them.

Joanne

I've used gorilla glue on some projects, and what I've noticed, is that when it's dry, I can usually take a hammer to the joint and it'll come right apart.

With titebond III, if I take a hammer to the joint, the glue surfaces don't come apart, but the surrounding wood comes apart.

So I prefer Titebond III.

I have noticed that epoxy makes one heck of a strong joint, but I've also noticed that if it's exposed to water, the joint can degrade.

So I prefer to back up all my joints with screws.

Mike...

I used gorilla glue on vertical joints because TB gets pretty runny. Gorilla seems to hold its place better.

Ken J.

Well it looks like my first choice is the one most of you prefer. Titebond III and screws!.....Thanks again for all the help.

Mike.. I like the hammer test. That sounds like some thing I would do!