Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I have purchased the Plastic Hinge from McMaster-Carr for the hatch and I need some help on the trim covering it.

I have a drawing to help.... Remember I am using WOOD trim, not alum and I would like to countersink the screws and use plugs.


Do I have the right idea on how to do this?? If so, what would you make dimensions A, B & C?

Thanks for your help.

Mk

Mary K wrote:I have purchased the Plastic Hinge from McMaster-Carr for the hatch and I need some help on the trim covering it.

I have a drawing to help.... Remember I am using WOOD trim, not alum and I would like to countersink the screws and use plugs.


Do I have the right idea on how to do this?? If so, what would you make dimensions A, B & C?

Thanks for your help.

Mk

Mary K,

I'd make "C" wider. The space between the trim where it meets in the middle of the hinge (where the dimple is) has to be as far apart as possible else it will restrict the opening of the hatch. Seems you've already realized that since one piece of trim is beveled. You may have to bevel both pieces of trim. I'm really not sure how you'll do this since I used 1/8" aluminum and the opening of the hinge is still restricted somewhat by the two pieces of 1/8" AL meeting when the hatch/door is opened. Just experiment I guess. I just Dunno

With "C" wider you can move the trim back closer to the edge of the hinge to allow more opening room, However, the mounting screws need to be at least halfway between the edge of the hinge and the dimple. Again, a real puzzle, I just Dunno. At first consideration seems physically impossible to use that thick a molding.

g

MK, we used 1/2" AL flat stock for that purpose....but I will give an answer...first off, Like the mighty G said, you may have to(very probable) bevel both sides... and be sure to seal EVERYTHING, inclusing screw holes...A) 1", B) 1/2", C) 1/4" ...I would take these numbers under consideration and wait to see if Steve Cox has an input here, since he did his in a very similar way...
madjack

Wouldn't you place the dimple down for more range of motion? Jim

Mighty G & MJ, Thanks. At least I am on the right track. Good! Just trying to get my head wrapped around it, ya know.

Jim, I have thought about that, I just went with what McMaster showed as being the "TOP".

Mk

madjack wrote:MK, we used 1/2" AL flat stock for that purpose....but I will give an answer...first off, Like the mighty G said, you may have to(very probable) bevel both sides... and be sure to seal EVERYTHING, inclusing screw holes...A) 1", B) 1/2", C) 1/4" ...I would take these numbers under consideration and wait to see if Steve Cox has an input here, since he did his in a very similar way...
madjack

Was the Al stock 1/2" thick? or 1/2"wide x 1/8" thick? I'm still having difficulty understanding the range of motion with 1/2" thick molding.

I had some shoe molding left over and it's "roughly" 3/8 x 3/4".
So I experimented some. With the squared side of the shoe molding inside and on top of my 1/8"(B thickness) flat AL (that'd be 1/2" total thickness for "B") the door would open just under 90 degrees before binding occurred.

Turning the Shoe molding over still with "B" at 1/2" but with the bevel on the shoe molding inside the binding started at just over 90 degrees. So that would be "doable"

With just my 1/8" flat Al the binding starts at about 135 degrees.

Yes I did put the dimple down on mine.

Looking forward to Steve's input.

g

OK OK OK, DUH DUH DUH, READ the Schematic Mighty g.My bad, My bad

You got the 2" hinge and I used the 1.5" hinge. That'll give you plenty of gap. Much more than I'm experimenting with. Go fer it, girl.

g

You okay Geron?

I have temporary installed mine with the dimple up and I am having no problems with it so far. But we will see what Steve did.

Mk

Mary K wrote::lol: You okay Geron?

I have temporary installed mine with the dimple up and I am having no problems with it so far. But we will see what Steve did.

Mk

I've never been "OK" but have managed to maintain a status of "living" as opposed to "dead" for 61 years However, that is currently being debated by my wife and boys.

g

Edited: Don't think it'd make a dab of difference dimple up/down. Opening radius determined by the molding anyways.

Geron wrote:

madjack wrote:MK, we used 1/2" AL flat stock for that purpose....but I will give an answer...first off, Like the mighty G said, you may have to(very probable) bevel both sides... and be sure to seal EVERYTHING, inclusing screw holes...A) 1", B) 1/2", C) 1/4" ...I would take these numbers under consideration and wait to see if Steve Cox has an input here, since he did his in a very similar way...
madjack

Was the Al stock 1/2" thick? or 1/2"wide x 1/8" thick? I'm still having difficulty understanding the range of motion with 1/2" thick molding.

G, the al stock was 1/2" wide X 1/18" thick...sorry for any confusion...we also left the "dimple" area free and clear by a full 1/4" on both sides............
madjack

madjack wrote:

Geron wrote:

madjack wrote:MK, we used 1/2" AL flat stock for that purpose....but I will give an answer...first off, Like the mighty G said, you may have to(very probable) bevel both sides... and be sure to seal EVERYTHING, inclusing screw holes...A) 1", B) 1/2", C) 1/4" ...I would take these numbers under consideration and wait to see if Steve Cox has an input here, since he did his in a very similar way...
madjack

Was the Al stock 1/2" thick? or 1/2"wide x 1/8" thick? I'm still having difficulty understanding the range of motion with 1/2" thick molding.

G, the al stock was 1/2" wide X 1/18" thick...sorry for any confusion...we also left the "dimple" area free and clear by a full 1/4" on both sides............
madjack

What about sealing it ? Put sealant under the hinge, on top of the hinge, both,, and what kind of sealant?

Hi Guys,

Sorry I haven't been paying attention

Uhhhh....dimple down.
Any sealant but silicone.
The more wood to wood contact behind the hinge the better the waterproofing, guess that's about it. I used the 2" hinge and the wood strips were 1.5 wide with a 3/4" wide rabbit for the hinge to sit under(does rabbit have 2 T's?)

Steve_Cox wrote:Hi Guys,

Sorry I haven't been paying attention

Uhhhh....dimple down.
Any sealant but silicone.
The more wood to wood contact behind the hinge the better the waterproofing, guess that's about it. I used the 2" hinge and the wood strips were 1.5 wide with a 3/4" wide rabbit for the hinge to sit under(does rabbit have 2 T's?)

Hi Steve... just finishing my hatch, I routed out my first layer of my roof and hatch so the hinge will sit flush with the roof. Plan to cover it with wood,and screw it down. Should I put caulking or sealant under the hinge, or just between the hinge and the wood on top. What would be the best sealant??

John, I would use a urethane based sealant/adhesive, such as is used for windshields or one of these from SikaFlex

I would apply the adhesive, above, below, behind, on top and anywhere else that water could possibly get to...that includes squirting some in the screw holes as well....
madjack

Thanks MJ...