Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Posted: **Wed Jun 20, 2007 5:51 pm**

I'm sorry I don't have pictures to explain what I am doing. Let's see if words alone can convey my meaning. . .

I have built an internal gutter system out of wood. There will be one of these internal gutters at each end of my galley hatch (left & right). My galley hatch does not overhang the sidewalls as on many other trailers. Instead, my hatch will stop short of the sidewall of the trailer and water will go into a channel (gutter) and run down and out. This is the same way a car trunk works.

Here is my question. What should I use to seal the wood on the inside of the gutter? I'm tempted to fiberglass that area, but I think that will just make a mess. I could varnish it, but I don't want maintenance issues over time. Is there a product that I can brush on that will give me a permanent watertight seal? Some kind of black rubber product? Something I can buy at Ace hardware or Home Depot? I want to put it on once and then forget it.

Waddayathink? :thinking:

Posted: **Wed Jun 20, 2007 6:21 pm**

Epoxy comes to mind first. You might be able to use spray on truck bed liner to do the job but I would epoxy first cause I am :chicken:

Posted: **Wed Jun 20, 2007 8:15 pm**

The only epoxy I have ever used is the two part glue stuff. Are you talking about that, or some other kind of epoxy? Do they have epoxy paint?

Posted: **Wed Jun 20, 2007 8:36 pm**

Two ideas:
1. The black roofing tar stuff we use on the bottoms of teardrops. Some types are a little thick for brushing, but maybe could be thinned with a solvent or thinner. It would probably need two or more coats if thinned.
2. How about that Plasti-Dip stuff you use for coating tool handles and such? I think it's a urethane product. It is available in colors, so you might be able to match your tear's color scheme.
Sam

Posted: **Wed Jun 20, 2007 8:39 pm**

There's always Durabak

Posted: **Wed Jun 20, 2007 8:42 pm**

Duane...I'm a big fan of epoxy. It can be thickened to fill any voids and then a top coat or 2 and depending on how much work you want to put into it, you can really smooth it out. Here's a pic on the door jamb on my tear...it's all end grain ply. just an idea, whatever you do, make sure you get it completely sealed off...at Minden, some people had issues with doors swelling due to the tons of rain we had and they were sticking..I realize you are talking about your hatch, but the same principal applies...Doug

Posted: **Wed Jun 20, 2007 8:47 pm**

Duane King wrote:The only epoxy I have ever used is the two part glue stuff. Are you talking about that, or some other kind of epoxy? Do they have epoxy paint?

Duane,

The epoxy in question is used extensively in modern woodenboat building especially for strip planked kayaks, canoes, and other craft (some really big boats too). It's also the way Steve Frederick finishes off all his trailers and the stuff Steve Wolverton coated Puffin with. It's glue too but not used the way you're thinking; it's poured out and squeegeed just like polyester resin when doing that kind of fiberglassing. In this case you'd use a thin epoxy to soak into the end grain (or just grain) of the wood in your trough to make it waterproof.

They do make two-part epoxy paint; it's used a lot on boats as well.

Posted: **Wed Jun 20, 2007 9:11 pm**

Tear Les wrote:
Duane King wrote:The only epoxy I have ever used is the two part glue stuff. Are you talking about that, or some other kind of epoxy? Do they have epoxy paint?

Duane,

The epoxy in question is used extensively in modern woodenboat building especially for strip planked kayaks, canoes, and other craft (some really big boats too). It's also the way Steve Frederick finishes off all his trailers and the stuff Steve Wolverton coated Puffin with. It's glue too but not used the way you're thinking; it's poured out and squeegeed just like polyester resin when doing that kind of fiberglassing. In this case you'd use a thin epoxy to soak into the end grain (or just grain) of the wood in your trough to make it waterproof.

They do make two-part epoxy paint; it's used a lot on boats as well.

Two part marine epoxy can be brushed if you do it before it thickens. You can even thin the first coat so it sinks in better.

I used it on all the exposed edges of my TD. :thumbsup:

If you find it at HD or Lowes it will probably be bondo. A coat of varnish over will give it the UV in needs.

Posted: **Wed Jun 20, 2007 9:58 pm**

Miriam C. Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 9:11 pm Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Tear Les wrote:
Duane King wrote:
The only epoxy I have ever used is the two part glue stuff. Are you talking about that, or some other kind of epoxy? Do they have epoxy paint?

Duane,

The epoxy in question is used extensively in modern woodenboat building especially for strip planked kayaks, canoes, and other craft (some really big boats too). It's also the way Steve Frederick finishes off all his trailers and the stuff Steve Wolverton coated Puffin with. It's glue too but not used the way you're thinking; it's poured out and squeegeed just like polyester resin when doing that kind of fiberglassing. In this case you'd use a thin epoxy to soak into the end grain (or just grain) of the wood in your trough to make it waterproof.

They do make two-part epoxy paint; it's used a lot on boats as well.

Two part marine epoxy can be brushed if you do it before it thickens. You can even thin the first coat so it sinks in better.

I used it on all the exposed edges of my TD. If you find it at HD or Lowes it will probably be bondo. A coat of varnish over will give it the UV in needs.

Miriam is right about the two-part marine grade epoxy paint. I have used it in the bathroom for the trim paint and the inside of the door. Thrity years later it is still there and still easy to clean on. I did the same thing in the kitchen with the same results.
:thumbsup:

Pat

Posted: **Fri Jun 22, 2007 1:49 am**

Today I went to West Valley Marine and picked up a small quantity of two part epoxy. It is clear and I wanted black. So I picked up a tube of color additive. I mixed up the pre-measured packet, squirted in a guesswork amount of color and applied it with a sponge brush. Some parts ended up looking great, and some parts are very thin and the wood just looks "dirty". I assume several coats will solve this problem. It dried up nicely when I was out for the evening.

Thanks everybody for the help. I've got enough packets of epoxy for two more applications on top of the first. Hope I don't end up needin' more.

Posted: **Fri Jun 22, 2007 2:13 am**

I know Home depot sells an aluminum channel - might be soft enough to follow the curve

Posted: **Fri Jun 22, 2007 8:30 am**

Duane King wrote:Today I went to West Valley Marine and picked up a small quantity of two part epoxy. It is clear and I wanted black. So I picked up a tube of color additive. I mixed up the pre-measured packet, squirted in a guesswork amount of color and applied it with a sponge brush. Some parts ended up looking great, and some parts are very thin and the wood just looks "dirty". I assume several coats will solve this problem. It dried up nicely when I was out for the evening.

Thanks everybody for the help. I've got enough packets of epoxy for two more applications on top of the first. Hope I don't end up needin' more.

Duane I used a stiff bristled brush not foam. The first layer should sink in pretty good, especially if it is on the end grain. Don't know about turning it black. I have never tried to dye epoxy.

The good thing about a brush is as the epoxy thickens the brush will too so it can still be used.

Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Gutter seal question

Gutter seal question