Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Planning on my next build to be based on the generic Benroy plans. Did I read the plans right, it is 5 wide, 4 tall and 8 long? If so is there any reason why I couldn't stretch it to 10 foot long?
Thanks

...nope...alll ya need is one of Doug's De-Lux Johhson Strechers(know to strech anything) and you will be good to go ....
madjack

disclaimer...longer ply, a longer trailer and other materials may be needed as well...

Aaron Coffee wrote:Planning on my next build to be based on the generic Benroy plans. Did I read the plans right, it is 5 wide, 4 tall and 8 long? If so is there any reason why I couldn't stretch it to 10 foot long?
Thanks

The 12 step program doesn't work. Take lots of . You might be able to save yourself.

No real reason you can't go to 10'.

Enjoy---I know we will!

I'm making mine 10'. I just have the walls up only. Peg

No reason not to stretch to 10'. I am building the Generic Benroy and did the Extra room makes for more space in the galley.

I have my walls up and roof spars in-place. The only thing I would do different is to put the wall seam at the side door instead of the back. I used a biscuits to join the wood and then used a 1 x 4 back up the joint.

I am making sandwich walls using 1/2" exterior, 1 x 4 framing, and 1/4" luan on the inside. Very stiff and structural strong.

I have a few pictures in my album if you want to take a look.

Have fun.

OK, the Gen-Ben (or is it Gen-Roy) will be put on hold while I build a mini tear. War Pony planted a seed at Minden that my nephew needed a tear of his own. The idea rattled around on the way home. Put my TD away and there was the basis for a mini, just sitting there(actually had been sitting there a couple years).
Thinking off pulling the box off, and scrapping it, stretching the frame, and building a 40 inch wide, 3 foot tall by 6 foot long. Should I narrow the frame to drop the sides down(cover the frame with wall? Would 1/2 ply be strong enough? Thinking of only half(just an open shelf)the lower part would all be bed.
Darn you War Pony!!!!

Aaron, 1/2 should be plenty...as far as covering the frame, that is a personal choice...if you use AL to skin it with, you could just run the AL down over the frame to hide it....
madjack

Mine was originally going to be 10', had 10' plywood, but was able to get everything I wanted into 9'. So, I decided a teardrop needed to be as small as possible while still having all the features I wanted, and then I cut the plywood to 9'. I know, weird!

I guess the biggest question if I just build on the frame, how do I get a good strong joint between the floor and wall?

Can you expand on that more? Are you thinking about bolting a piece of plywood to the chassis, and bolting the walls to the chassis? A bunch of self taping screws would hold the walls to the chassis really well, but how would you seal the joint between the walls and the floor?

Mike...

Aaron Coffee wrote:I guess the biggest question if I just build on the frame, how do I get a good strong joint between the floor and wall?

If I lower the walls to cover the frame I would screw the wall into a 2 x 2, and then screw the floor into the 2 x 2. Then bolt the floor to the trailer This would provide a good joint since the screws would be going through the side of the ply into the 2 x2, rather than going into the end of the ply. But if I just build a box on the frame, the screws would go through the wall into the thickness of the floor(probably use 3/4 for floor).
Hope I explained that better. This is on the mini build. Probably will narrow frame because that should put it at the right inside width for a single mattress. Narrow it 4 inchs, 1 1/2 for 2x2 and 1/2 for wall ply equals 2 inch, double it for 2 walls for a total of 4 inchs, should give me and inside dimension of 36 and a single mattress(twin) is what 35 wide. Trailer is now 40 inchs wide. Is my cipherin' correct?

You could probably screw your walls into a 3/4" floor if you are careful, predrill it, and use longer screws.

You could also back it up with angle brackets inbetween the wall and the floor. Let me get a picture of a typical angle bracket.

Mike....

mikeschn wrote:Can you expand on that more? Are you thinking about bolting a piece of plywood to the chassis, and bolting the walls to the chassis? A bunch of self taping screws would hold the walls to the chassis really well, but how would you seal the joint between the walls and the floor?

Mike...

Aaron Coffee wrote:I guess the biggest question if I just build on the frame, how do I get a good strong joint between the floor and wall?

...Aaron..the answer is cleats...we used 1x1/16th Al angle, scuffed the down side and used Gorilla Glue and screw to attach the walls and floor together....

Mike, we laid a heavy bead of caulking along the edge of the floor before installing the side......
madjack




...click my WWW button and look at "glue and screwed" for additional pics...........MJ

Re-read the generic benroy plans and will go off of those plans just shrinking it where needed for the mini tear. Also measured a twin mattress and it is 39 inchs wide by 6 foot 3 inchs long. So it looks like that will be the dimensions.

Aaron Coffee wrote:.... measured a twin mattress and it is 39 inchs wide by 6 foot 3 inchs long. So it looks like that will be the dimensions.

Now how is he supposed to get his girlfriend in there????