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Skinning - Questions.

PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 9:59 am
by Classic Finn
Just a Quick Question...pertaining to skinning (Plywood)

I have the skin on the hatch...therefore should I continue the skinning from the hinge area now to the front?

Or is it so I must start from the lower front to the back? On our way to the skinning right now...
:D :D Or does it make any difference? :thinking:
Classic Finn

PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 10:29 am
by rbeemer
Heikki,

What I would do is fit your first skin on your fron curve so that you do not have any seams in the curve, this may make for some smaller pieces on each side but less chance of having an edge pop.

Make sure sure that you end up each piece in the middle of a strut(of course you already knew this, just a friendly little reminder)

PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 10:38 am
by Classic Finn
rbeemer wrote:Heikki,

What I would do is fit your first skin on your fron curve so that you do not have any seams in the curve, this may make for some smaller pieces on each side but less chance of having an edge pop.

Make sure sure that you end up each piece in the middle of a strut(of course you already knew this, just a friendly little reminder)


Okidoki my friend... So when I am at the end of the 1st sheet it ends up half way on the cross rib and continue from there, correct?
I am going with 2 layers of the 1.5 mm so I guess on the second layer I,ll have to start on the back them so to get the seams at different location then.. I will only need 2 on each layer...

and they are 155 x 155 each in centimeters.. ;) :thumbsup:

Classic Finn :thumbsup:

PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 12:38 pm
by rbeemer
You are correct that all your sheets should end halfway on a rib and having the seams for your second layer not in the same place as your first layer

Remember to mark your seams on the first layer so you can find them on the second layer for measuring and cutting.

Are you covering yours with Aluminum, if so you may not need the second layer - maybe a question to our venerable sages on the forum

PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 1:41 pm
by Classic Finn
rbeemer wrote:You are correct that all your sheets should end halfway on a rib and having the seams for your second layer not in the same place as your first layer

Remember to mark your seams on the first layer so you can find them on the second layer for measuring and cutting.

Are you covering yours with Aluminum, if so you may not need the second layer - maybe a question to our venerable sages on the forum


No - Negatory :lol: :lol: Im covering 1st with 2 layers of 1.5 millimeter ply. Then the fiberglass... which is white in color.. I,ll eventually have that painted once I get done...

Im sort of in a bind.. though.. Since I have to take and cut my towbar off and toss it as far as I can..This is where the EU Bass...nerds got me. I,ll go out and take some photos ...

Be back in about 5 minutes and I,ll tell you why it is.. maybe someone can give me a bit of advice...desperately needed..

Classic Finn

PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 1:52 pm
by Classic Finn
Ok here are a few photos I took.. along with the questions.. :? :? :designing: :coffee:

1 problem (small) :duh Ok as you folks know (at least a few of you)..
I need to switch towbars...EU EU and more Eu..ok..

How is the cut made for the ply there where the towbar goes under the entire in front of the trailer? The towbar beam is about 2 inches thick..

Also if you look at the cross bar there of the frame.. underneath just past the styro formation at the radius.. How is the ply fastened to that cross bar...

Would it be ok if I skin just about 6 inches or less above the towbar since I need to cut off the towbar there at the weld unfortunately until I get the new one .. I have to drive to a dealer to have a new towbar fitted so Im just afraid that if I skin all the way down at this moment I may have to tear that skin open again just for the new towbar..(See Below Also) The Fiberglass skin will go on top there as well with a protector shield of Diamond Plate equivalent..about 6 -8 inches high..

Image

Image
Next question is... Will Glue stick to styrofoam? Or Sika Product?

# Should I seal the bottom of the 1st layer of ply with Marine lacquer before laying it on the styro face or is there any point to do so?

I will be gluing the 2nd layer onto the 1st so I know that glue will not stick well if at all if it is varniished before gluing on the next layer...
# Do I need to varnish that ?

Then on top of that I will be gluing on the fiberglass ... (so I was thinking) or can that be floated as aluminum can? Or should I glue that?

I think I got all my questions down now...except for 1 concern..before I glue the 1st layer...

# Ok also I noticed that the sun has dried out the foam pvc on the seams and there are small cracks there...What else can I use to seal them small cracks instead of using the PVC on these areas...??

Image

Image

Image

Image

(3rd photo ) Here I was wondering if I should seal that where the styro and cross beam of the frame meet? and what can I seal it with?

Image

I still have a Cup of Hot Coffee.. :lol: :D

Classic Finn

PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 2:05 pm
by bobhenry
Oh the suspense !!!

PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 2:07 pm
by Ira
Classic Finn wrote:Okidoki my friend..


HAH!!!

I never thought I would hear Heikki say "okeydoke." (I typed the correct spelling because I didn't know it either and had to look it up.)

It also helps Heik if you say it in a real redneck accent--not a Finnish one.

PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 2:35 pm
by Classic Finn
Ira wrote:
Classic Finn wrote:Okidoki my friend..


HAH!!!

I never thought I would hear Heikki say "okeydoke." (I typed the correct spelling because I didn't know it either and had to look it up.)

It also helps Heik if you say it in a real redneck accent--not a Finnish one.
Ok since Im a Suthern Fan.. at Heart how do dem Ol Suthern boys say it... :lol: :lol:

Classic Finn :lol: ;)

PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 2:37 pm
by Classic Finn
bobhenry wrote:Oh the suspense !!!


Greetings Mr. BobHenry - Suspense it is here as well... :lol: :lol: Finally gettin the Nutshell on.. :D :D

Classic Finn

Skinning while listenin in on some Lynard Skynard...And Willie Nelson songs... :dancing

PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 2:47 pm
by Mary K
Classic Finn wrote:
bobhenry wrote:Oh the suspense !!!


Greetings Mr. BobHenry - Suspense it is here as well... :lol: :lol:

Classic Finn

Skinning while listenin in on some Lynard Skynard...And Willie Nelson songs... :dancing


I feel Like Dancing too..

:M "Sweet Home Abalamba" :M :dancing :M:wakka wakka: :dancing :M:wakka wakka: :M :dancing :M :wakka wakka: :M :dancing :M

(Abalamba..yes I know... tehehe)


Mk

PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 3:16 pm
by Classic Finn
Ok where Be All them Skinners At? Or was it Skynards... :lol: :lol:

Classic Finn ;)

PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 3:30 pm
by martha24
Heikki,
Looking good! :thumbsup:
How far up to the first spar up from the bottom one?
If to the middle of the spar is about your 6" that would be great. I'm no expert, but probably wouldn't be a problem anyway & since you are going to have the diamond plate & fiberglass skin covering it too.
That's the area where we pieced our roof, as we don't have a curve there.
As long as you get your new tow bar before putting on the fiberglass roof & diamond plate, shouldn't be a problem.
Especially since you are skinning it with other things, I think I would make the seam in the middle of the spar, give you a good place to "nail" the seam down.
Martha ;)

PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 3:40 pm
by Classic Finn
martha24 wrote:Heikki,
Looking good! :thumbsup:
How far up to the first spar up from the bottom one?
If to the middle of the spar is about your 6" that would be great. I'm no expert, but probably wouldn't be a problem anyway & since you are going to have the diamond plate & fiberglass skin covering it too.
That's the area where we pieced our roof, as we don't have a curve there.
As long as you get your new tow bar before putting on the fiberglass roof & diamond plate, shouldn't be a problem.
Especially since you are skinning it with other things, I think I would make the seam in the middle of the spar, give you a good place to "nail" the seam down.
Martha ;)


Hi Martha ... Finally moving again... but with a lil questionable thought and questions as you noticed... :?

Yes the height is at about 6 inches before the 1st cross spar.. and it will have ply, then the fiberglass on after we get the new towbar.. but..
I need to skin everything up to that point ...in the meanwhile...

It would be a pieced section there ... which is sad.. sort of but I need to haul the tear over to the shop and I dont want to tow it before it has been skinned 90% with the lighting .. since I dont have a truck or trailer to haul it.. but I was thinking I can run a real tight fit bead there and seal it well even though it will be a totally seperate piece now..Gulp.. Or I can have a fiberglass section there so it will be solid and no water can get into it..

Hope I explained all this ok ... :oops:

Best regards Heikki :thumbsup: ;)

PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 3:47 pm
by martha24
Hope I explained all this ok ... :oops:

Heikki,
You explained it fine. It shouldn't be a problem at all. Most TDs have a seam someplace. Plus since the fiberglass is going on after without the seam, it will be a huge water barrier.
Must say the EU sure likes to cause you trouble. :roll:
Martha ;)