Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

What is the correct procedure to install the Diamond plating?

Is it with glue 1st and then with Stainless Screws or ?

I purchased Diamond plate for the front lower half radius area and also to the bottom of the hatch..

Classic Finn

Howdy Finn,!

On my TD when I had aluminum under where my diamond plate would go I used rivets to attach. I also siliconed with silicone formulated for alluminum for extra bond.

When my diamond plating didn't have alluminum under it I used screws. I also used screws on the tighter curves as the rivets didn't hold down the DP as good as I wanted.

Srry i'm not a technical type guy and I'm not good at explaining how I do things.

I also used screws to even out the looks if that makes sense. I tried my best to keep them evenly spaced and straight. I have a lot more screws than needed but to make the screws more appeasing to the eye I put more in certian place to balance the look.



This piece is on the hatch but it's the same on the front. Across the top you can see the screws. There was too much of a bend and the rivets did not work as well as I wanted so it's screwed. I really didn't mind the look of the screws.

Hope this helps and I'm sure others will chime in soon.

Ken.

Your TD is looking really nice!

Hi Heikki,

All of my surfaces are flat so the installation was easy. I predrilled all of the holes in the diamond plate then attached it to the trailer with stainless screws. I put a little bead of silicone across the top of the diamond plate to keep water from getting between the trailer and the diamond plate.

Joanne

Dear Ken and Joanne

Im really thankful for the advice from you.. Yes the radius is a sharp one so I want to make sure it will stay on properly.

Could it be possible to show a photo or 2 of the type of screws you used please..

I,ll go and get some screws shortly for it...How far apart wuould you need to go? Every 5 or 6 inches? Or?

Best regards
Heikki

Heikki...the info I have you in the PM is just for attaching it flat to the front tongue. That technique won't work for attaching it in a curve on your tear body, as I drilled and tapped the frame to attach it to and it is just flat, my plate is 1/8" too beefy to be bending to fit your profile. Doug

doug hodder wrote:Heikki...the info I have you in the PM is just for attaching it flat to the front tongue. That technique won't work for attaching it in a curve on your tear body, as I drilled and tapped the frame to attach it to and it is just flat, my plate is 1/8" too beefy to be bending to fit your profile. Doug

Gotcha.. The stuff I picked up is fairly bendable..But I dont think its sturdy enough for the tounge... They do have different thicknesses available there..

Thank You Doug.

Heikki

looks like that...srry for the crappy pic. I left my camera at the shop. mine were a bit longer though.

maybe it will help..

Ken

khutson wrote:


looks like that...srry for the crappy pic. I left my camera at the shop. mine were a bit longer though.

maybe it will help..

Ken

Hi Ken Glad to hear from you... Yup we have them . Those look like selfdrilling ... are they?
And stainless correct?
How far apart did you screw them?

Heikki

How far apart should we set the screws for the Diamond plate?

On the front and back .. ? the width is eactly 61 inches..


Classic Finn

Hey bud,

Mine were not self tapping. Since they would be mostly in the wood. Not sure if self tapping would be a good idea for wood but I could be wrong maybe someone else has a opinion on that.

Mine are every few inches or so and even less in some places but like I said I also was trying to balance the look of the screws too.

hope that helps.

Ken

khutson wrote:Hey bud,

Mine were not self tapping. Since they would be mostly in the wood. Not sure if self tapping would be a good idea for wood but I could be wrong maybe someone else has a opinion on that.

Mine are every few inches or so and even less in some places but like I said I also was trying to balance the look of the screws too.

hope that helps.

Ken

Hey Ken - Thats the words I was looking for.. Balancing the layout of the screws.. So they get put on evenly..

The many screws weve got here are self tapping as you call it. Quite handy actually.

B

khutson wrote:Hey bud,

Mine were not self tapping. Since they would be mostly in the wood. Not sure if self tapping would be a good idea for wood but I could be wrong maybe someone else has a opinion on that.

Mine are every few inches or so and even less in some places but like I said I also was trying to balance the look of the screws too.

hope that helps.

Ken

Hey Ken - Thats the words I was looking for.. Balancing the layout of the screws.. So they get put on evenly..

The many screws weve got here are self tapping as you call it. Quite handy actually.

Boy I wish the rains and winds would go away.. Its hindering my work..on the tear that is..Got all materials and its raining ... just my luck.

Cant do anything but laugh...

Classic Finn

Thank You Ken

I would love to see some rain!


We have had more this year than usual but I would still love to see some more.

Ken

If it's a flat surface another option is epoxy if you don't want a bunch of nasty looking screws. Be sure to use a surface prep on the aluminum, thicken your epoxy to the consistency of catsup (I use a mix of silica powder and wood dust), then weight it down good until it sets.
--
Scott

khutson wrote:I would love to see some rain!

Erin might be giving you your wish . . . . no?

Don