Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Ok a few minutes ago

I noticed a lil technical error on the body side (not body side hinge) ... but the rib that it will be sitting on..

I can move it a small tad with my hand.. Im just not sure that it is sturdy enough there...to hold the hinge in place. Here is what I mean..


How can it be fixed so it will ... The top and lower end of the hatch is oak...so should I step back and laminate 2 oak boards together and replace that body section since its not oak..
and what is a method of strengthening it? Ideas or Photos anyone?

Classic Finn

Hey Finn... What are you covering your roof with? If you got it covered with 1/4 ply it should not move....

Micro469 wrote:Hey Finn... What are you covering your roof with? If you got it covered with 1/4 ply it should not move....

John its 3 millimeter Ply plus 1.5 millimeter fiberglass (Sorry dont know the Product Name). 4.5 millimeter in total..or 4.5 mm = 0.177165 in

Classic Finn

Heikki, if you are using the poly hinge, it will firm that support up when you screw it along the length. I'm assuming that you are referring to a certain amount of flex in that spar.
Cheers
Paul

Heikki you need to remember that your hatch isn't going to put pressure in one spot like you hand. The inside cabinets will firm up the adjoining walls too. Your hinge will give it some strength

My spar spans 6' so I put a 1x3" across to frame in the shelf and give it support

Heikki,
To assure I had no issues with flex on my hatch hinge beam, I tripled up some 3/4" oak... 2 1/4" thick overall, width varies because it's profile is a trapezoid. The beam also butts up against and is attached to the bulkhead. I can stand on it and it doesn't flex...
I will most likey do another "beefy" roof spar somewhere towards the front of the cabin area, should I ever decide to do a roof rack, I'll have solid mounting support areas...

PaulC wrote:Heikki, if you are using the poly hinge, it will firm that support up when you screw it along the length. I'm assuming that you are referring to a certain amount of flex in that spar.
Cheers
Paul

Paul yes indeed thats what I mean exactly.

Classic Finn

Mike C. wrote:Heikki you need to remember that your hatch isn't going to put pressure in one spot like you hand. The inside cabinets will firm up the adjoining walls too. Your hinge will give it some strength

My spar spans 6' so I put a 1x3" across to frame in the shelf and give it support

Ok so my thoughts and worries are then over nothing I guess. And yes the back cabinets are still to be built in that area.. ok thank you, I feel better about it now.. Im glad I asked though because it would of been on my mind constantly...

Thank You
Classic Finn

Dean in Eureka, CA wrote:Heikki,
To assure I had no issues with flex on my hatch hinge beam, I tripled up some 3/4" oak... 2 1/4" thick overall, width varies because it's profile is a trapezoid. The beam also butts up against and is attached to the bulkhead. I can stand on it and it doesn't flex...
I will most likey do another "beefy" roof spar somewhere towards the front of the cabin area, should I ever decide to do a roof rack, I'll have solid mounting support areas...

Okidoki Deanster.. To me it just seemed a lil awkward there. And also the interior cabinets arent in so they will help ..

Whew...

Classic Finn