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Moulding Question and Recommendations

PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 10:12 am
by Classic Finn
Dear friends

I am happily installing my long awaited moulding.. I would like your idea or ideas...on this.. Ive been staring at the sides now for about an hour
and I have these mouldings that I showed in another thread..

I would like to add the awning and with the awning moulding I would have to in my opinion go all the way from the lowe front to the very end of the hatch..

If I cut it at the hinge location then the awning will not attatch properly..

Image

Image

If I add the so called Normal moulding the same way I will not in my opinion be able to combine the awning moulding..

Image

Image

Together this will look sort of awkward..or would you suggest in using the awning moulding on one side and the normal on the other?
:thinking:
Hope my explanation makes some sense..

Best regards
Classic Finn

PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 10:20 am
by madjack
Heikki, we ran ours along the entire front edge from front to back(with the cut for the hatch)...it looks just fine, there is a very slight offset(1/16th") between them but the awning would still slide through it(if we had the awning rail style)....the edge of the hatch came to the edge of the wall and the lip on the moulding comes down over the wall, the went under all of that an worked out eally well...the portion of the moulding on the hatch was attached with rivets going UP from the bottom and into the moulding and covered with the plastic insert trim...sorry, no pics for ya
madjack 8)

PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 10:26 am
by Classic Finn
madjack wrote:Heikki, we ran ours along the entire front edge from front to back(with the cut for the hatch)...it looks just fine, there is a very slight offset(1/16th") between them but the awning would still slide through it(if we had the awning rail style)....the edge of the hatch came to the edge of the wall and the lip on the moulding comes down over the wall, the went under all of that an worked out eally well...the portion of the moulding on the hatch was attached with rivets going UP from the bottom and into the moulding and covered with the plastic insert trim...sorry, no pics for ya
madjack 8)


Hey Madjack - This is exciting to do now since we have the moulding..
but seems like we were just snagged all of a sudden.. That moulding does look good on it we noticed..

Also what type of screws do you recommend ? and how far apart would be the best ..?

Thank You Again Madjack...

I,ll get fresh pics for you soon.. had to stop due to a heavy downpoar
of rain... :x

Heikki

PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 10:34 am
by madjack
Heikki, I don't emeber if we used #8X 3/4 or 1" placed about every 6"s...that was on the body, on the hatch we used rivets...on the body, we ran the hurricane hinge long and the moulding, right up to it...the lip on the moulding was left in place and run under the extended portion of the hinge...with your moulding, you would havvta remove a portion of the top of the awning section to do the same...a tricky cut but doable........
madjack 8)

PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 10:53 am
by Classic Finn
Madjack you caught me ... with the word rivets?

Pop Rivets?

Is this the same?

Language snag... :lol: :lol:

Heikki

PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 10:57 am
by madjack
Classic Finn wrote:Madjack you caught me ... with the word rivets?

Pop Rivets?

Is this the same?

Language snag... :lol: :lol:

Heikki


...yep, you want a flat(as possible) headed pop rivet...darn language snafus(ever hear of a SNAFU)............... 8)

PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 11:31 am
by Classic Finn
madjack wrote:
Classic Finn wrote:Madjack you caught me ... with the word rivets?

Pop Rivets?

Is this the same?

Language snag... :lol: :lol:

Heikki


...yep, you want a flat(as possible) headed pop rivet...darn language snafus(ever hear of a SNAFU)............... 8)


:lol: :lol: Never heard of Snafu ;) :?

Madjack is it so that the molding will start bending just by using the screws
or does one have to take a rubber hammer to bendit more?

Im just a bit nervous about the end of the ply on the top where the screws will go into that its sort of soft aint it?

So it dont start to split once putting holes into...or screws put in.. :thinking: Maybe not .. this is just my pre drilling imagination maybe.

Heikki

PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 11:36 am
by madjack
...an old military term...in general usage in the USA...Situation Normal...All Fu**** Up...SNAFU :D :lol: ;)
madjack 8)
p.s. very similar to FUBAR...Fu**** Up Beyond All Repair.....MJ

PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 11:39 am
by Classic Finn
madjack wrote:...an old military term...in general usage in the USA...Situation Normal...All Fu**** Up...SNAFU :D :lol: ;)
madjack 8)
p.s. very similar to FUBAR...Fu**** Up Beyond All Repair.....MJ


I,ll have to use that on my friends here.. :lol: :lol: :lol: :thumbsup:

Madjack in the States - the moulding with the insert .. does that come with a rubber seal that is used under the moulding or is it applied direct with butyl tape?

Here with this moulding is a rubber seal laid under it plus buytl tape..
have you seen that before?

Here is a small pick with the same moulding and it has the rubber seal under it..

Image

Heikki

PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 11:44 am
by madjack
...no rubber seal...no butyl tape...just sealant of choice...we used a urethane sealant(auto windshield sealant)................ 8)

PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 11:48 am
by Classic Finn
madjack wrote:...no rubber seal...no butyl tape...just sealant of choice...we used a urethane sealant(auto windshield sealant)................ 8)


and for both of the moulding I received it has the rubber seal and butyl tape..It will look identical to this pic

Image

Overkill? Maybe its just the way that the Caravans are done.. didnt stick around long enough to look... :lol: :lol: wonder why? And after 6 months .. :D :D

But ok should be a good seal then... :thinking:

PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 7:33 pm
by asianflava
Rivets are rivets, pop rivets are just a special rivet. "bucking" a rivet usually requires access to both sides of the fastener. In places where you cannot get to the backside, you need a "blind rivet" which is also called a pop rivet.

Pop rivets are easier for everybody to use which is why they are what normally see.

PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 4:36 am
by Classic Finn
asianflava wrote:Rivets are rivets, pop rivets are just a special rivet. "bucking" a rivet usually requires access to both sides of the fastener. In places where you cannot get to the backside, you need a "blind rivet" which is also called a pop rivet.

Pop rivets are easier for everybody to use which is why they are what normally see.


Geeeeeee :lol: :lol: :lol: rivet is a rivet is a rivet.. :lol: :lol:

How about the term "pop niitti" which is our term for it in the Finnish Language. :lol: :lol: Now you know one word in our lingo 8) 8)

PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 4:43 am
by Classic Finn
madjack wrote:Heikki, we ran ours along the entire front edge from front to back(with the cut for the hatch)...it looks just fine, there is a very slight offset(1/16th") between them but the awning would still slide through it(if we had the awning rail style)....the edge of the hatch came to the edge of the wall and the lip on the moulding comes down over the wall, the went under all of that an worked out eally well...the portion of the moulding on the hatch was attached with rivets going UP from the bottom and into the moulding and covered with the plastic insert trim...sorry, no pics for ya
madjack 8)


Well after thinking about what youve said and reading over it several times we are going with the awning mould.. I,ll have one going across the bottom of the hatch as well... it will be an impressive way of hooking up an awning or what have you on the hatch when its open.. I think..unless Master Madjack has another suggestion or idea.. 8) 8) :thumbsup:

Classic De Finn ;)