Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

by **steve wolverton** » Sun Jan 09, 2005 2:13 pm

Hi Everyone,

I'm about to add weatherstrip to my teardrop doors. My doors sit flush now, and have 1/2" lip all along the inside of the camper which the doors close against. Will I need to remove some material to allow for the thickness of the weatherstrip, or will it compress enough w/o doing that?

Any suggestions on a type? It seems like the white round stuff is popular.

Receiver is now finished and tongue is welded on. I picked up my new wheels/tires yesterday. Getting close!

Thanks,
Steve

by **WarPony** » Sun Jan 09, 2005 3:26 pm

I think the flat, grey weather stripping is going to be the best bet. The round stuff might make the door edge stand away from the surface of the wall where the handle is. From what I've read, the hinge part is what is a real pain to seal.

by **Steve Frederick** » Sun Jan 09, 2005 5:02 pm

If the seal lip around the door runs along the hinge side, no sweat! Just run tha seal all around the opening. The hinge will get sealed from behind. I set my doors so that they are about 1/4"" from a door jamb, which runs all around the door opening
To answer the question, I used a ribbed, square Frost-King door seal from Home Depot. It's 7/16"" thick. Has worked well through a very wet late summer and fall.

The seal runs all around.

A view of the door jamb.

A section view of the door seal.

by **mikeschn** » Sun Jan 09, 2005 6:03 pm

Steve Frederick wrote:
The seal runs all around.

So Steve,

Do you think the twins will be ready for Mystic?

Mike...

by **Steve Frederick** » Sun Jan 09, 2005 6:09 pm

That's the plan!! I need to pick up the pace though!! :shock:

I just got the tubing for my frame. My new welder arrived this week. Torflex axle will arrive this week also. I've got lots to do!! Yahoo!! :thumbsup:

by **mikeschn** » Sun Jan 09, 2005 6:13 pm

Steve Frederick wrote:That's the plan!! I need to pick up the pace though!!
I just got the tubing for my frame. My new welder arrived this week. Torflex axle will arrive this week also. I've got lots to do!! Yahoo!!

I could come out for a weekend and help you... but I have to be careful though, my sawsall can do a lot of damage!!!

Let me know if you want us to come out for a weekend!!!

Mike...

by **steve wolverton** » Sun Jan 09, 2005 9:51 pm

Steve Frederick - Well, judging by your doorsection.jpg you have a 1/4" shim to allocate for the 1/4" weatherstripping. Looks like I will be breaking out the router and cutting 1/4" more wood to allow my weatherstripping to fit. Drats.

Steve

by **Steve Frederick** » Sun Jan 09, 2005 10:12 pm

Steve W, Are you cutting away the door or the door opening? What you might consider is removing the jamb if you have one. Add the shim required to get a gasket in, and then install another jamb?

by **steve wolverton** » Sun Jan 09, 2005 10:29 pm

Steve Frederick - I have to cut away some of the door jamb. My walls/door is 3/8" plywood. It's not insulated, so I added a 1x2 on the backside of the door cutout for a jamb. The jamb was screwed in, filled, and glassed over. No removing that thing.

It shouldn't be hard to trim 1/4" out of the jamb. I just didn't realize that 1/4" weatherstripping was actually 1/4" when compressed.

Steve

by **RAYVILLIAN** » Sun Jan 09, 2005 10:36 pm

Steve
I have to cut away some of the door jamb. My walls/door is 3/8" plywood. It's not insulated, so I added a 1x2 on the backside of the door cutout for a jamb

Sounds like you screw the 1x2 to the inside of the tear. If that is the case
you could use the tack on door seals. The ones with aluminium strip and a rubber seal that goes against the door.
Gary

by **Ranger Rod** » Mon Jan 10, 2005 9:00 am

Steve,
How far does the lip protrude inside the door opening? Looks like it is about 1/2" or is it more? Also, how wide is the kerf for your door opening & did you use the rotozip 1/8" bit or saw it out?
Thanks,
Rod

by **Steve Frederick** » Mon Jan 10, 2005 6:39 pm

Rod,
Geez, We have a lot of Steve's here!

I think I'm the correct one to respond to the question. :thinking:

I cut the doors out with a thin kerf cordless circular saw. The curves are done with the sabersaw. The lip is 3/4"" wide all around. The lip is set back from the door 1/4". The seal is 7/16" thick.

by **Ranger Rod** » Mon Jan 10, 2005 7:37 pm

Thanks Steve F. I guess you're right, there are a number of Steves.
The question was directed towards you. I really like your idea for the door seal. Should give a good seal all the way around & without adding a bunch of AL trim.
Thanks again. I've learned an awful lot already from this forum and a whole bunch from your excellent website. :thumbsup:

Rod

by **Steve Frederick** » Mon Jan 10, 2005 8:49 pm

Thanx Rod!! :oops:

For me, It's all about spreading the "disease" of tiny trailer camping. Helping folks to build there own is my effort to pay back for all the help others have freely given to me.

by **doug hodder** » Wed Jan 19, 2005 1:34 am

hey, Im a new member, I have owned a vintage tear however. I think that you will want to use a closed cell weatherstripping, not an open cell one. I've done open cell ones before and they work well for wind, but not for H20. doug

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