Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Here are a few pics of my front cargo box. The hinge is mounted on the front.
Kev

Looks great. How does it latch closed?

Kev that looks great..

Classic Finn

I like it...................

Gives me some ideas

Bill

Loader wrote:Looks great. How does it latch closed?

Also curious? Could you shoot a picture of the seal?

I like it, may borrow your design for mine. I was just scoping out the area yesterday, debating what to do.

To seal it there is a 1/2 inch lip that comes up from the bottom half. I sealed the wood with epoxy. Then I used closed cell foam seal tape (from Lowes) around the top of the bottom half. It compresses. I have not mounted the latch but I may use a window latch, the old type that you just rotate to tighten, it fits in a tight space. The weight of the lid holds it down real good and since it hinges from the front it won't blow open. You can also use small compression latches, one on each side.

Kevin

Montana Kev wrote:To seal it there is a 1/2 inch lip that comes up from the bottom half. I sealed the wood with epoxy. Then I used closed cell foam seal tape (from Lowes) around the top of the bottom half. It compresses. I have not mounted the latch but I may use a window latch, the old type that you just rotate to tighten, it fits in a tight space. The weight of the lid holds it down real good and since it hinges from the front it won't blow open. You can also use small compression latches, one on each side.

Kevin

Kevin can we also kindly ask you for pics of your method s on the box..

Its very nice..

Classic Finn

Montana Kev wrote: The weight of the lid holds it down real good and since it hinges from the front it won't blow open.

I know you are not going to, but I wouldn't count on that. Murphy is always there to kick me when I think something like that!



I would tell you the story of the big cabinet I made and was transporting in the bed of a pickup. I mean it was good and heavy, 2 person load. It could never fly out, it was too big and heavy. But it's too embarrassing..

As for the design, it's a wood box with skin. Build your box, then saw off the top 1/4 just below the radius. Place a 1/4" X 2" wood trim on the inside of the lower box, coat the lower and upper exposed edges with epoxy. Stick weather (foam tape) stripping on the lower half, add the skin and hinge and latch. It's very time consuming, like building a mini Tear, but much better than a plastic box. The lower arrow is pointing to the wood trim that creates a water dam. Just look at a plastic cargo box at Home Depot and you will get the idea of how the top overlaps the bottom. Corners are alloy angle. The front radius edge is corner trim, be sure to trim the corner trim molding back a 1/8" where it makes the bend so it won't crimp.

Kevin

Can you jackknif the trailer without damage to the box?

I really like the box, Very nice work I may steel the idea as well for mine.

riverfront wrote:Can you jackknif the trailer without damage to the box?

Yes... that is something to consider when having a big box. The toung is 40" from the ball to the front wall. The box is 48"WideX19"Deep. You could make the toung longer or the box smaller. Backing is more of a concern. My turn radius pulling forward is border line, meaning it would be hard to make contact between the bumper and box but it may be possible. Hope that helps. I would make my toung 6" longer if I did it over again. I could also get a hitch extention for the truck (longer ball mount shaft) and that would resolve any concerns.
Kevin