Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

How well will 1/4" Luan bend? That is all I can find locally to finish the interior.

Please reply back ASAP as I have to get something real soon to continue on my project!.

Eric,

This won't be much of a help, but here in Portland, Or. there is a woodworking speciality retailer that has what you are lookin for. They are Emerson Hardwoods. I purchased some 1/8" Birtch "bendy ply", two of the plys are oriented the same. It bends all by itself. They also have a 1/4 "bendy ply" that is like a wet noodle.

I recall a thread here about someone using 1/4 ply. They made a jig of sorts to hold the ply in place and then coax (force) it to fit the radius of the Teardrop. Or maybe it was someone's web page. I can't remember which.

Maybe in your area there is a similar specialty wood retailer. I searched the Internet and was lucky enough to find a supplier locally. Good luck!

Norm

most ply will warp (so it will change shape). I suspect if you run the grain across, attach one edge, you can coax it right along the shape you want... attaching screws as you pull it down to the frame with a couple of ropes...

That is my plan, anyway. I would try it with no glue and see how it goes. If successful, glue it.

Going the long way would be much more difficult...

Hi Eric, I am almost done with my build , on the inside maybe you could find suitable wall paneling , it is 1/8 inch & bends very well around a radius. just my 2 cents.

I bent 1/4" Luan around a 20" radius. The trick is to get it wet (damp) and slowly bend it around the radius. I used straps and applied somewhat even pressure and it wrapped fine. You have to apply it so the grain runs perpendicular to the side walls of the trailer ( grain parallel to the ground)

When it comes to bending plywood, everybody has their on idea and mostly they are right. Some day I plan to call in all my markers and ask S Frederick how close and deep the kerf cuts need to be to bend ½ inch birch around a 12 in. radius curve.

Eric Adams wrote:How well will 1/4" Luan bend? That is all I can find locally to finish the interior.

Please reply back ASAP as I have to get something real soon to continue on my project!.

I used 1/4" birch plywood inside my cubby. To see how I managed to do it see my build site below.

Have you considered hardboard? It's 1/8", bends really easy, and is cheap. That should work fine for your interior.

Steve

TonyCooper. I like that ceiling fan.. can you tell us where you got if from?

Tony-

Great site - and so current. I think I stumbled into your site and then found this forum.

Looking at your photo of the jig I really don't see how you actually used it. The bar is tied to a spar - but how is the ply attached?

Thanks
BILL

arnereil wrote:TonyCooper. I like that ceiling fan.. can you tell us where you got if from?

It's a nice fan... a FAN - TASTIC Vent model 4000. high profile with 1 3/8" garnish, short knobs and dome lock. Got it here:

Adohen Supply

Real nice folks to deal with. This is an expensive model fan but this was the lowest price I could find it for.... and I did a rather intensive search.

Standard Disclaimer...I have no interest in this outfit other than being a satisfied customer

Thanks for the site.. I have a cheap vent/fan from whitney, but it is noisy... and I'll be redoing the roof in the spring and this fan looks good. (the tear is paid for, so can start upgrading some of the accessories)...

I had no problems bending 1/4" luan. You have to let it know who's boss, but it'll bend. One ape holds it down while the next drives in a couple of screws, and there you go.

However, I would not want to try to install this stuff from the inside out. You'll want to be able to lean on it...

Good Luck!

BILLYL wrote:Tony-

Great site - and so current. I think I stumbled into your site and then found this forum.

Looking at your photo of the jig I really don't see how you actually used it. The bar is tied to a spar - but how is the ply attached?

Thanks
BILL

Bill,
Take a close look at the jig itself. If is comprised of a 45" long 2x4 with a 45" long 3/4" x 1 1/2" furring strip screwed into place and 2' long 2"x 1/8" aluminum flat strip attached. The aluminum U channel was attached to keep the jig from twisting up when the c clamps are tightened.

You'll want to attach the 3/4' furring strip 3/4" from the edge of the 2x4 (the distance to the center of the 2 laminated spars). If you look at the oak spars in the 2nd pic, you'll notice that I laminated two together at the top of the cabinet location (I did the same at the bottom location of the cabinet) I measured from the floor up to the laminated point folllowing the inside profile curve to get an accurate measurement of how long I needed the panel to be. I wanted it to stop at the spar lamination point. That way I'd have something behind the panel to fasten the edges to.

If all is done right the furring strip will butt against spar just as the panel edge centers on the lamination seam. The 2" aluminum strip was added to insure that the panel would not lift itself between the 2x4 and spar as pressure was applied. With the jig in place the panel will be seated against the 2x4 and on top of the aluminum strip. The aluminum strip will be between the spar the the panel.


Looking at the pic below you see the jig in place and fully butted against the spar. The panel is right where I want it. If you look closely you can see the aluminum guide plate between the spar and the panel.

From this pic you can clearly see why the aluminum u channel was added. When I tightened the clamps without it the 2x4 twisted allowing the panel (and 2x4)to pop out of position. As you tighten the clamps with it in place the channel slips through the knot but keeps everything in place.

Once I saw that it would seat properly I loosened the c clamps and applied my glue between the spars and the panel. I then retightened the clamps and let it cure overnight - then used brads to secure it. Then the clamps came off.

Hope this helps... this is probably as clear as mud... ask if you need further clarification...If you saw it in use it would make sense... trying to describe it seems a little difficult... sorry...

There are probably a 1000 ways to do this successfully. This one worked for me.

Tony-

I think I have it. So the metal plate and the clamps are really holding it in place.

Thanks
BILL