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Epoxy question.

PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 7:26 pm
by jeffwholmes
When using epoxy do I need to put down cloth on the top and wet it out, or can I just epoxy the whole tear with out the cloth?

I hope I asked that Wright, I know that there is no need to use cloth on the sides. I am just not sure about the top.
And I have no experience at all with epoxy, what I know is from using the search and reading hundreds of posts over the last few days.

I want to use an automotive paint for the tear.

Thanks Jeff.

PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 8:01 pm
by asianflava
It really depends on what you are trying to achieve. If you need strength, then you should use cloth. If all you need is to protect the wood and/or provide a smooth base, then cloth is not necessary.

PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 8:07 pm
by jeffwholmes
Thanks for your reply asianflava, I will be using the generic benroy plans.
I think the roof will be strong enough so I guess my main goal is to seal the wood and provide a smooth base to lay down the paint.

Thanks Jeff.

PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 9:29 pm
by benzu
Jeff,

I'm not using any cloth on mine and I even have two inlays of wood on the sides. Just as long as you have a solid backer behind your exterior skin you can do it with out cloth. Check out album for pics

I'm trying to put at four to five coats of epoxy on all surfaces.

I used Raka products 3 gallon kit.


Mike

PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 9:37 pm
by jeffwholmes
Mike, I’m thinking of using Raka brand. Will the 6qt. kit be enough to do a 5’x8’ or should I get 3 gal.? I’m building the generic benroy.

What size is your build?

Thanks Jeff.

PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 12:47 am
by madjack
Jeff, you shouldn't need the cloth...I have been using the RAKA system and I am very happy with their product...while it may be more than you need, it never goes bad(basically) so I would recommend the 3gal kit with the non-blushing hardner...it's worth the extra 10 bucks or so.......
madjack 8)

p.s. I would highly recommend that you get some micro ballons as well, to mix into the epoxy, to thicken it for putty/filler and such........MJ

PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 1:00 am
by jeffwholmes
Thanks madjack. I wasn’t sure what the shelf life was on epoxy, if it stays good for almost ever I might just find another project for it. I have never used epoxy so please excuse my questions. I have used some glass sheets and glass filler for auto body work but that I think is a different animal.

I hope to be getting my wood and 2x2x1/8 angel for the trailer this week to start my build, the epoxy will probably wait till spring as my shop is only 12’x16’. I think I will get every thing cut and dry fit then when spring rolls around bring it out for the final build.

Thanks Jeff.

PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 1:14 am
by madjack
Jeff, the stuff you used for the auto body work was probably polyester based resin...a much differrent animal...with the nonblushing RAKA, you will get 30 to 45 min of working time depending on temps and amounts mixed(mix small batches at a time)...you can usually use the same brushes/rollers thru 3r4 successive batches..........
madjack 8)

PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 1:28 am
by jeffwholmes
Thanks for the info madjack, I think it will be of great help.
:thumbsup:
Jeff.

PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 2:48 am
by asianflava
madjack wrote:Jeff, you shouldn't need the cloth...I have been using the RAKA system and I am very happy with their product...while it may be more than you need, it never goes bad(basically) so I would recommend the 3gal kit with the non-blushing hardner...it's worth the extra 10 bucks or so.......

p.s. I would highly recommend that you get some micro ballons as well, to mix into the epoxy, to thicken it for putty/filler and such........MJ


jeffwholmes wrote:Thanks madjack. I wasn’t sure what the shelf life was on epoxy, if it stays good for almost ever I might just find another project for it.


I've had a "kit" in the garage for over a year now. It's still good but I have encountered some discoloration with the hardener. It puts a slight tint to the epoxy but it is fine otherwise.

I'd also echo MJ, if you are putting your order in, get more than you think you'll need. You have to experiment on a few test pieces to build your confidence. It will also give you an idea of how much working time you have. The microbaloons that MJ mentioned allow you to mix it to serve as a spackle or bondo. Chopped glass or fibers mixed in makes it a super strong adhesive. Oh, make sure to order the pre metered pumps, it makes life a whole lot easier.

One more thing, mix it in small batches to avoid thermal runaway. More than one of us (myself included) have experienced the smoking cup. The epoxy gets hot as a reaction to curing, if the mixing cup doesn't have much surface area, the heat will be retained making it feed on itself. It will get so hot that it will smoke and melt plastic.

PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:20 pm
by Ralf
I'm the guy up the road in Fayetteville. Have been using Rika Epoxy to seal mahogany ply, may glass top but no need for glass on 3/4 ply sides, unless you want it bombproof for year round outdoor storage. I have built three plywood boats with epoxy and glass. Let me know if you have questions as I am a month ahead of you. Got a nic e pattern if you need it.

PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:35 pm
by Geron
I built a generic benRoy. Used epoxy w/o the cloth just for protection.

I'm Happy :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :yes: :ok: :thumbs up1:

PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:59 pm
by jeffwholmes
Thanks Geron, I have never used the stuff before so I am just trying to get all of my little ducks in a row.

I also have never taken on anything such as this build, I have done my fair share of construction ie. I will be installing two more windows and a new front door that my wife and son picked up today and the new siding they picked up today after that. Oh the honey do projects, not really we live in a mobile home so I started all of it. I am putting up sheeting all around new double pane windows and doors along with vinyl siding. Going to save a fortune on the heating and cooling, that means more money for the tear and travel.
:D

Jeff.